Vic 2013 Xmas in July Swap - Recipe thread

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Just confirming Est final Gravity. Its been 3 weeks now @19o taken 2 measurements of 1.020. Used Wyeast 1098. Should this come down anymore?
 
Hi Damn,

1.062 - 1.020 represents a 66.6% drop, (fitting for Damn)
Attenuation range for wyyeast 1098 is 73-75%, this suggests the yeast hasn't attenuated to capacity.
Not having used 1098 before i cant tell if you it slows down or stalls much sorry.

But the figures above are always going to depend on the mashing regime and the spec malts.
My Wyyeast 3864 Canadian/Belgian ale max's out at 79% and my Batch dropped to 1012.
I pitched a big amount though also as i was using the stout to build up for some bigger beers.

maybe a bit of a stir to see if it gets going again?

Can others comment o there FG's and what yeast??
 
Mash regime was all sorts of fucked up… lol

I pitched Windsor on it the next day as my cube wouldn't seal and I didn't want to lose it, seemed to stop about 1018 - 20 so I kegged the bitch... Drinking well through the Kilkenny sparkler tap… booyah!!

I didn't expect to come away with a cube or I would have stocked a specialty yeast prior to the swap... Aah well, at least it's drinking and not infected :)
 
I measured Friday it was 1.019 then tonight (Monday) @1.020 I was suprised to see higher but I did have my beer goggles on Friday. I only made a 600ml starter I'm taking this matters.
Thanks Charst, Yob for input. Maybe give it a stir and turn up the temp 1o-1.5o and let it go another week?
 
Roast malts in large amounts do add to fg in my experience. I rarely get stouts much below 1020 although I do like full bodied. If I wanted dry, I'm sure a 62 mash for 90 would do the trick.
I would say done but if bottling do a forced ferment test to make sure.
 
Thanks Manticle. I would like to do the "forced ferment test" as this a new process to me but I don't have anymore of that yeast. I do have other yeast but its either coopers pale ale(kit yeast), us-05 or some belgian strong. Since a couple of you have had similar F.G's. I'm going to take a gamble and bottle. I've never had a brew stall on me yet (yes, I'm sure I will, especially with some of my adhoc ways). I will keep sugar scoops at about 90% give or take.
 
Even just taking a sample of what you have and getting it warm and agitated can give you an idea of whether they yeast in the brew now will wake up and continue.

Hydrometer sample into a clean, sanitised stubby, alfoil cap, keep at 25 degrees or so and shake the arse out of it every time you remember. Measure again in 3 days - if it's 1020, I can't see your bottles going off. Still prime with caution. If it drops, you know you can get more from the yeast.
 
Ok. I did as suggested although about 24o for 3 days got a reading of 1.016. Measured fermenter again....going mad, this time it read 1.021. Gave the float a tap and it dropped to 1.019ish.
Do I do as Charst suggests or bottle or what else can I do. Thanks again for any help.
 
Warm the main brew up to 22 and see. At this stage of the game the higher temp won't hurt. If no change after 2-3 days, I reckon she's done. Mine was 1018 a few days ago - if she's still there tomorrow, I will keg/bottle on sunday. I always get high finishes with stouts, am always wary when I bottle and always seem to get good results. I prime low end of the range.
 
Thanks so much. I'd be lost without this forum. Cranked the thermostat and up and sure enough I'm getting slow air lock activity. I'll give it a few days and check it again.
 
I have this sitting in FV now with 1098 and plan to leave it there for 3 weeks
After which I have a cube of yeastie boys pot kettle black which calls for us05
Can I pitch it over the cake of 1098 instead?
 
meathead said:
I have this sitting in FV now with 1098 and plan to leave it there for 3 weeks
After which I have a cube of yeastie boys pot kettle black which calls for us05
Can I pitch it over the cake of 1098 instead?
A quick read on 1098 from the wyeast website suggests its clean enough to ferment an IPA but it may not be your first choice as the british yeasts tend to throw more esters than an american US05 yeast.

Either way i would not pour the new wort directly on top of the old yeast (plenty do though). Its far to big a population of yeast for the requirement.
A big yeast pitch ive read can be a negative, lack beery esters and not clean itself up, but ive never noticed the effects of over pitching as yet ( i dont over pitch).

the problem with repitching is it impossible without a microscope to count populations and get an understanding of how much healthy yeast your actually pitching. I vaguely remember ready on the forum that half a cup of clean (cream coloured) thick slurry is all thats needed. mrmalty website is a guide many use for yeast pitching.

Rather than use that as a guide i took about three litres of my Stout slurry and put it in a flask, let it settle and rinsed the yeast a couple times
(look up yeast rinsing). I intend to add this yeast to a 2 litre starter prior to my next batch. At least with that method im confident ill have the population i require and not way over due to the yeast / food ratio in a starter.


1098 from wyeast notes below
(This yeast allows malt and hop character to dominate the profile. It ferments dry and crisp, producing well-balanced beers with a clean and neutral finish. Ferments well down to 64°F (18°C).)
 
Thanks Charst
Appreciate the feedback
I think I will go with 05
Maybe do the yeast rinsing on a lower gravity beer
Cheers
 
meathead said:
Thanks Charst
Appreciate the feedback
I think I will go with 05
Maybe do the yeast rinsing on a lower gravity beer
Cheers
How much of the Stout do you have Meat head? using yeastcalc.com 20 litres of 1062 wort (stout OG) required 224 billion.
not sure the OG of the pot kettle black but @1062 thats two and a bit fresh packs (1 pack = 1 billion)

You would definitely have the cell count if using the slurry of 1098, but not with one pack of US05

Do a calc using Mrmalty.com and setting "non yeast percentage" to 25% (just in case) and type your Pot kettle particulars in the top. Youll get a calculation in millilitres of how much of the yeasty slurry you need to ferment you next beer. Being an IPA and british yeast you could err on the high side to keep the ferment clean.

I fermented my stout with a non traditional yeast and it has come out a beauty. Talking to the brewer from boat rocker two nights ago he said his house yeast is a clean british dry ale yeast which after research is the whitelabs version of 1098. and his three main brews are quite hoppy and not lacking for using british yeast.
 
It all depends on how much yeast you need,

Whats the OG of the Pot Kettle black?
How much do you have? 17L? from G&G or brewed yourself?

You can make a starter with 05 but really dry yeast is packed to the gills with all the nutrients it needs to ferment out, its just that one pack may not be enough.
You'd be better to buy two packs of dry rather than a starter with one pack.

PLEASE NOTE: I c*cked up a calculation on the above post saying 1 pack = 1 billion cells, cant seem to edit now.

Check out http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html and use the dry yeast Tab to calc how much yeast you need.
 
Bottled this yesterday after 3 weeks in fv
Fg was 1012
Sample was the best flat warm stout ive ever had
Looking forward to this one
 
Mine's been in the FV for 8 weeks now. (Used WLP irish stout)
FG is 1.014.
It's STILL bubbling every 5-15 minutes. Wtf? (not wanting to sound like a noob, but seriously, wtf??)

I have to admit, i've been sneaking many samples over the last few weeks. It tastes awesome warm & flat straight out of the FV !!
 
I've been enjoying my kegged version a great deal. Must have been the addition of my arm hairs to the mash.
 

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