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I'm due to relocate my Columbus in the next week or 2, I suggest you send me a PM and remind me next Friday about it.

Cheers
 
Anyone growing in WA want to sell me some rhizomes?
 
My Hallertauer will be getting dug up next tuesday
I was going to do it this week, but we're heading away this weekend and I get sidetracked easily, so I didn't want to forget them and leave them out to die
I'll put a thread up once it's up and I know exactly how many zomes I've got to sell
I will be selling all of it, so the crown will be for sale too
 
I've noticed in the last few pages a few people are digging up rhizomes to put them in the fridge then replant come spring. Is there any benefit to this rather than just leaving them where they are?
 
koots said:
I've noticed in the last few pages a few people are digging up rhizomes to put them in the fridge then replant come spring. Is there any benefit to this rather than just leaving them where they are?
I doubt there is any benefit to doing this.

Restarting plants from a smaller rhizome can give the appearance of improved yield because a smaller plant requires less water. A lot of people don't water their plants enough.
 
Compost bin is full 12 months of spent grain and 3 years of grass clippings just about to start a hop garden with the soil. Any advice on soil composition for hop plants ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1433654205.926773.jpg
 
osprey brewday said:
Compost bin is full 12 months of spent grain and 3 years of grass clippings just about to start a hop garden with the soil. Any advice on soil composition for hop plants ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1433654205.926773.jpg
Hey OB, your pretty much set mate....grab some Cow/horse manure mix it through, plant away and top dress with some cane mulch once it starts to warm up. Alternatively watch this space for someone who may like to go a little more in-depth with tips
 
Well, as the thread title asks, here it is! Reckon it will be ready for a brew next weekend?

Pretty excited, thanks to Hoppy2b for the rhizomes to make it happen. When the time comes i will put one post between each pair of pots and run a cord from each pot up to the shared post.

The rhizomes had a fair few shoots on them some of which were pretty long (5cm), also the soil that i prepared the day before was seriously warm when i planted them and the forecast at least for the next week is reasonably warm. What happens if shoots break the surface already? Growing season starts early?

Cheers, Matt

1433757721125.jpg
 
Anyone around the Hunter Valley have any hops they would be willing to split up? Would like to grow some American varieties if possible. Cheers, Hayden
 
Yob said:
Hey Yob I've seen other photos you've posted before of this hop garden setup.

Just wondering how it went this year? How did you stop them spreading into each others areas and confusing you at harvest time?
Cos my Chinook shot about 3m under the surface and then popped up where it shouldn't have.

Also, you wouldn't happen to have any Columbus rhizomes kicking around would you?
 
Hey fellow green-thumbs/ brewers :)

I ripped all of my rhizomes out of their respective pots today.
I was extremely surprised by how MUCH they'd increased in size!! From little, sort of pen sized rhizomes, to half a shopping bag full!!
Some had even grown out of the bottom of the pot and were maybe another 40cm below it... Will be getting bigger pots for next season, that's for sure ;)
All looked super healthy, in fact some had started to throw some shoots already.

I've been informed that they need to be cooled down to a lower than normal QLD temp, to give healthy growth next season.
So I've wrapped them in newspaper, which I lightly showered with the garden hose and then put them into shopping bags.
They're now in the veggie section of my beer fridge, where I'll leave them for a month or two. (temp is around 5C)

Could one of you fine gentlemen please confirm if this sounds about the right way to handle the rhizomes for the winter period?

Cheers in advance,
Martin
 
I've read somewhere that the length of daylight hours being shorter the higher the latitude is actually what affects the yields people get hence why Tasmania is the most ideal place to grow, rather than the colder temps in winter.

My first year plants were in pots until I planted them in the ground and they went fairly well last season although I didn't get a huge harvest. Leaving them in the ground this winter and hoping for a bigger crop next season (third season but second in the ground).
 
Actually from memory what I read didn't specifically say it was the latitude rather than the cold but it just mentioned that latitude has an impact.
 
I don't see why there is a need to pull out the rhizomes during winter months, I have read where others have pulled them out and put them in the fridge, I have put strawberry, rhubarb and comfrey seeds in the freezer before planting which gives the seeds a good start but the actual rhizome being pulled out I can't see the purpose.
I too would be interested in the reason they should be pulled out (apart from splitting).
 
Splitting is about it, unless you use pots and they are too big for the pot and become root bound. I have only moved my hops once (well twice seeing as I moved them back) in 5 years, due to a bad year in front of Leylandiis. Moved them back to their original spot and they went gangbusters. Just set and forget if they are in the ground. Chop off the dead bits in winter, ensure theyre covered during frosty weather (if you get them) then watch them do their thing again in late spring. Again, depends where you live.
 
Small plants transplanted from pots usually work well but large crowns dug up and transplanted don't usually do very well. Root bound pots would likely behave similarly to large crowns when placed in the ground.

Its usually best to start with a clean bit of rhizome planted in the ground. By clean I mean that it has had the tubers cut off. As long as your pots aren't overly root bound they should do well when transferred to the ground providing you water them well.
 
Anyone have any thoughts on putting tarps or weed mat over the hop plantation during winter?
Reason I ask is my plot gets infested in grass and weeds and is a full time job to keep weed free.
I was thinking I could cover during winter then uncover in spring to kill off the germinated weeds. As it is a raised bed on clay soil this may also prevent rot by limiting the winter rain to the soil. I have been spraying with glypyo at the end of winter, but this is fraught with danger.
Any input welcomed.
Cheers.
 
Been meaning to replant mine,just can't seem to get the time..

That really is a stunning looking compost, we've got chickens now so looking forward to adding their crap to my compost heap.. Plenty of it on my shiny feckin deck to collect... Bastards..
 
Spoke to a couple of people about a way to handle rhizomes for us qlders, and the general consensus was that the fridge would simulate the colder months perfectly and give better growth the following season.
6 to 8 weeks at that 5C mark would allow me to simulate the ground temperature at the relative latitude, similar to those growing in Vic/Taz areas.

Also, just so that other people can draw from this, to store them in the fridge, pop them in the veggie section.
The rhizomes should be wrapped in wet news paper and into a shopping bag to keep some of that moisture. I have it on good authority that this has stored viable rhizomes for up to 2 years!

I'm not sure if it is necessary to do it each year, but I guess next year I'll be able to split up my rhizomes and leave some in the ground and some in the fridge and compare that :)

Cheers for everyone's input, much appreciated :super:

edit: just added some clarification to my text...
 
seehuusen said:
Spoke to a couple of people about a way to handle rhizomes for us qlders, and the general consensus was that the fridge would simulate the colder months perfectly and give better growth the following season.
6 to 8 weeks at that 5C mark would simulate the ground temperature at the relative latitude for those living in Vic/Taz areas.

Also, just so that other people can draw from this, to store them in the fridge, pop them in the veggie section.
The rhizomes should be wrapped in wet news paper and into a shopping bag to keep some of that moisture. I have it on good authority that this has stored viable rhizomes for up to 2 years!

I'm not sure if it is necessary to do it each year, but I guess next year I'll be able to split up my rhizomes and leave some in the ground and some in the fridge and compare that :)

Cheers for everyone's input, much appreciated :super:

edit: just added some clarification to my text...
As a complete novice, I have no basis for this next statement but, I cannot see how removing rhizomes and forcing them to grow a new root system would ever be beneficial for crop yields?

Quite happy to be corrected....

Cheers, Matt
 
My rhizomes grew from what resembled no more than a pencil beginning of last season, to having a massive root system, shoots and new rhizomes (approximately the size of a football).
I have not cut/trimmed any of the roots, but rather just shook most of the dirt off them, the whole bunch will go back into the ground in a couple of months.

Pulling them out or not, those I spoke to had good results chucking them in the fridge to simulate the winter period.
I know that many bulb types, like tulips for instance, needs this treatment too if you want to grow them up here.
In them, it creates a trigger (release of enzymes?) to grow vigorously once spring hits.

It might also be different for you, as you would get the occasional frosty night out your way (which we never do, living on the coast)...

I'm still learning, I guess there are many ways to skin a cat.
I'm also happy to be corrected :)

edit: lazy typing, missed a word haha
 
Here is an old thread about the effects of latitude on growing hops, I would like to see some scientific evidence of any benefits of digging up rhizomes and storing them in the fridge, not a believer in making more work than necessary, as for bulbs there are 2 types 'Tender' and 'Hardy' the hardy stay in the soil over winter and the tender taken indoors for protection.

Some Info Re The Effect Of Latitude When Growing Hops - General ...
 
Thanks for the link, looks like a good bit of information :) Will have to grab a cold one and read through it...
As I mentioned previously, after next season, I'll be able to split and do a comparison, half in the fridge while leaving the other half, that'd be pretty interesting to see (and perhaps monitor over a couple of seasons to see if there is a decline in production for either)

Cheers WEAL :beerbang:
 
I grow tulips, the cold kicks them into growth. They grow because it is cold. They don't wait till it gets warm in spring after the cold until they start growing, that is just incorrect.
 
Matplat said:
Well, as the thread title asks, here it is! Reckon it will be ready for a brew next weekend?

Pretty excited, thanks to Hoppy2b for the rhizomes to make it happen. When the time comes i will put one post between each pair of pots and run a cord from each pot up to the shared post.

The rhizomes had a fair few shoots on them some of which were pretty long (5cm), also the soil that i prepared the day before was seriously warm when i planted them and the forecast at least for the next week is reasonably warm. What happens if shoots break the surface already? Growing season starts early?

Cheers, Matt
Assuming the pots contain the same variety of rhizomes, all good. If they are different rhizomes then 2 metres minimum gap, 3+ if you can. Otherwise you'll spend the growing season trying, in vain, to keep them apart. You won't be able to differentiate the cones of different varieties.

I've got Victoria and Chinook planted 5 metres apart and by the end of the season they meet up despite my best efforts. They may not be classified as weeds but they have many of the traits.
 
DrSmurto said:
Assuming the pots contain the same variety of rhizomes, all good. If they are different rhizomes then 2 metres minimum gap, 3+ if you can. Otherwise you'll spend the growing season trying, in vain, to keep them apart. You won't be able to differentiate the cones of different varieties.

I've got Victoria and Chinook planted 5 metres apart and by the end of the season they meet up despite my best efforts. They may not be classified as weeds but they have many of the traits.
Thanks for the advice Dr, there are 3 varities in pairs of pots, I am planning on putting a single post in the middle (and a bit behind) each pair which will support the twine from both of the pots so each variety will grow towards its mate and away from its foreign neighbour.

Do you think this will prevent the problem?

Cheers, Matt
 
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