Trub from BIAB. Filter?

[Phoney]

Nah it wasnt Bribie, and it was definitely hot break. Could have been a couple of years ago now. ThirstyBoy?

 

[Canuckdownunder]

[SIZE=medium]Do everything right and fit a clean piece of hose to your tap and go straight to the bottom of the fermenter.[/SIZE]

Hey MHB!
I thought that running the wort through the mesh screen would help me to collect errant hop material and also aerate the wort resulting in a better fermentation. If I run a tube straight to the bottom of the fermenter how will the wort get aerated?

Canuck

 

[DJ_L3ThAL]

Another good reason to try no chill, you can minimise hot side aeration with a tube into the bottom of the cube. Then when you are ready to ferment and its cold, pour from a height to splash it around!

 

[joshF]

If i no chill, i syphon straight out of the cube and attach one of these badboys onto the end of the syphon hose

http://www.brewmart.com.au/brewmart-shop/catalogue/?detail&ItemID=3978&SZIDX=0&CCODE=10735&QOH=8&CATID=371&CLN=2

If you have the cube a decent height above the fermenter, you can get a really good spray. I still attach a plastic mash paddle to my drill and splash the **** out of it aftewards just for the hell of it but have never had an issue with stalled ferments etc.

 

[stm]

Canuck - so how much wort are you actually losing to trub? About 3L is not unreasonable for an urn. (You are not going to get a great whirlpool with an exposed element.)

 

[Bribie G]

My two cold break beers produced virtually identical brews.

If you collect the trub in sanitised jars and leave to settle overnight you can reclaim a fair amount of wort. I'd normally be looking at tipping out two litres of trub, by adjusting the recipe to give you an extra litre or two it's not going to cost much for an extra half kilo of grain etc.

Braumeister seems to produce very little break due to its filtering cycle during the mash, BIAB produces more hot break because more turbid material goes into the boil.

At the end of the day it's swings / roundabouts, no concerns about my finished beers. BrewBright from MHB is a brilliant kettle floccer as well, I add right at the end of the boil and allow 20 mins for settling.

 

[pommiebloke]

+1 for Brewbrite

 

[Pickaxe]

I don't use an urn but two put stovetop method and have found that scraping hot break off with a spoon, like you would for a clear stock or broth, has reduced my trub dramatically. I scrape the surface scum just before I hit boiling point. I lose a little wort, but my efficiency is better, and my trub is dramatically reduced. I find it worth the time.

pickaxe

Edit: spelling

 

[GuyQLD]

I don't have the reference handy at the moment but you do need to realize that hot break and cold break are two very, very different beasts and have different affects on your finished beer. The reason we want to get rid of hot break is because of the proteins Mark mentioned, its also the reason I tend to always do 90 min boils.

Cold break in a home environment is a bit of a more difficult argument to make. It contains a number of staling elements which are unlikely to have an effect on beer drunk fresh. It also contains some amino acids that can aid in fermentation, well substitute for poor oxygenation at least. Not that I'm condoning poorly oxygenated wort. Its far better to remove the cold break and oxygenate correctly. At least that's why the big boys do it. As always your mileage may vary.

You won't cop any napalm from me Mark, you're spot on.