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Cold / Hot Break Trub

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Malted Mick

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Hi All I am not clear on the Cold / Hot Break Trub issue. I have been All Grain BIAB brewing for about 6 months. I believe I make decent drinkable brews but still want to improve. I mash APA's around 66 - 67 C for 1 hour and then boil the wort for 90 minutes. With about 15 minutes to go I add my imersion chiller and then a Whirlfloc tablet when the wort comes back onto boil. I have a very efficent chilling set up and get the wort down to 25 C in less than 30 minutes. During the first 10 minutes or so of chilling I stir the wort in a whirlpool to assist heat transfer through the coil. I then have coagulated clumps at various levels of the wort which I assume is the cold break. When cool I dump it via a 1" ball valve into my fermenter. The ball valve drain is above the bottom level of my kettle which leaves abou a litre or so of trub. The trub which remains seems to be mainly hop residue and liquid which I discard. The coagulated mass mentioned previously all runs out into the fermenter. My question is should a have more sludge or a coagulated residue left at the bottom in the way of cold break.
 

philrob

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I've been racking my brains for some time as to how people separate the hot break from the cold break, so as to leave the hot behind but let a little of the cold break get through. Would love to read how it's done.
For what it's worth, I chill my brews the same as MM, but use BrewBrite dissolved on the stirplate for about 30 minutes before adding it to the kettle at 5 minutes to go. I leave about 1 to 2 litres behind in the kettle. I don't want all that hop residue etc to get into my fermentor.
 
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Patience, or 2 metres of helix, let everything settle and slowly empty into fermenter. Some cold break will enter the fermenter, just because you can't see in doesn't mean its not there. George Fix mentioned in his book Principles of Brewing Science that some break material is not visibal until it reaches 14 C I think it was.
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Keeping everything possible out leads to a cleaner clearer beer.
 

Malted Mick

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The problem I have is that the coagulated mass (maybe cold break) whatever it is is in suspension like clouds. It is impossible to seperate it from the wort as it is at various levels. It was my understanding that the quicker you chill and get it into the fermenter the better. Maybe I need to let it sit for a bit longer and see what happens.
 
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The problem I have is that the coagulated mass (maybe cold break) whatever it is is in suspension like clouds. It is impossible to seperate it from the wort as it is at various levels. It was my understanding that the quicker you chill and get it into the fermenter the better. Maybe I need to let it sit for a bit longer and see what happens.
It does sink. With the helix there is no need to wait, without the helix cover up and wait, it will all settle out.
 

Sidney Harbour-Bridge

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I usually leave mine to settle overnight, cools well at this time of year too.
 

Malted Mick

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Ok Thanks guys. What is a helix Weal and how does that work. My practice has been to get it chilled down and into the fermenter as quickly as possible, may have to consider covering it up and leaving it overnight.
 
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A helix is a stainless steel extension spring, works fine using at 1 metre with 'no chill' need at least 2 metres when cooling in the kettle owing to the difference in viscosity.
Not the best practice to leave it overnight but I have done it quite a few times, spray some sanitiser around the top of the kettle place the lid on and for some extra piece of mind cling wrap around the edge.
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Malted Mick

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Ok great WEAL. Will order a helix spring and tee. From what I gather it is basically a flexible filter and the tee is used to close of both ends of the helix. It was a step I had missed in in reading up of All Grain BIAB.
 
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Ok great WEAL. Will order a helix spring and tee. From what I gather it is basically a flexible filter and the tee is used to close of both ends of the helix. It was a step I had missed in in reading up of All Grain BIAB.
Thread here.
 

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