SmartPID

[nosco]

Has anyone else been able to get the stats going on Thinkspeak? I can connect to the Smartpid with the app and control the set point but thats about it.

 

[nosco]

Is it possible to turn off the pump during the mash? I know how to do it in manual but not auto.

 

[scooterism]

Could someone please post a photo or two of how you have your smartpid wired up pls? Do you have multiple wires coming out of the mains input terminals ?

 

[nosco]

Mines wired as per the Klarstein (guten) retro fit wiring diagram so it might not be any help. But it only has 2 wires in the mains terminal. 1 in each.

 

[nosco]

The Klarstein wiring diagram

 

[scooterism]

I'm a bit unsure of which is the best way to go about the wiring. If you see on the image where the mains go in and tee off for the pump/SSR, can I run a bridging wire from the mains in to the relay for the pump and another wire from the mains input to feed the SSR?

 

[scooterism]

Maybe my MS Paint skillz will explain what I mean better..

 

[arzaman]

View attachment 110625

I'm a bit unsure of which is the best way to go about the wiring. If you see on the image where the mains go in and tee off for the pump/SSR, can I run a bridging wire from the mains in to the relay for the pump and another wire from the mains input to feed the SSR?

Hi
the wiring really depends on what you want to drive, smartPID is totally flexible and can drive electric heating element as wel gas fired systems via solenoid valve, can drive dircetly 12v pump or 220AC pump or stirrer

In the picture you post a simple example for a configuration with electric heating element driven via SSR and 220v AC pump

the main are connected
-to the 220V AC input of smartpid
-to pump via RL1 or RL2
-to heating element via SSR

botht RL1 and SSR acts like a swithc so on input to main the other to load (brown) , the other mani wire (blue) directly to the load

hope is clear now
br
Davide

 

[scooterism]

Hi
the wiring really depends on what you want to drive, smartPID is totally flexible and can drive electric heating element as wel gas fired systems via solenoid valve, can drive dircetly 12v pump or 220AC pump or stirrer

In the picture you post a simple example for a configuration with electric heating element driven via SSR and 220v AC pump

the main are connected
-to the 220V AC input of smartpid
-to pump via RL1 or RL2 -to heating element via SSR

botht RL1 and SSR acts like a swithc so on input to main the other to load (brown) , the other mani wire (blue) directly to the load

hope is clear now
br
Davide

I will be using this element and this pump

 

[nosco]

Im no sparky but it looks like you have drawn a different version of the same thing in the original. Get some terminal blocks from Jaycar to make it easier. These come in handy too.

Edit: and some heat shrink too to insulate everything to make it safe once you have finished.

 

[arzaman]

I will be using this element and this pump

so the circuit perfeclty fits your need

drive heating element via SSR
drive pump via RL1

configure the proper output in the HW config menu and is done !

Davide

 

[Mardoo]

Davide, which output to use for a gas solenoid? I’m just using an on/off solenoid, so I’d use the Omron relays, yes? I don’t need proportional control so not the out put for SSR, correct? I need to control 2 solenoids.

 

[arzaman]

Davide, which output to use for a gas solenoid? I’m just using an on/off solenoid, so I’d use the Omron relays, yes? I don’t need proportional control so not the out put for SSR, correct? I need to control 2 solenoids.

if solenoid valve is 12v DC you can drive directly via DC1 or DC2 (max 1A)
if is a 220V solenoid valve you can drive via RL1 or RL2 internal relay (non need for external relay)

since you are using On/OFF controll make sure you configure properly the heating mode in the HW config menu and than you configure properly the hysteresis

SSR is mainly for PID and electric control

Not sure what are used 2 solenoid....if are on the same heating channel you can drive in parallel
if you use 2nd solenoid for the 2nd channel (HLT) configure one on DC1 the other one on DC2 (or RL1 and RL2)

Davide

 

[Mardoo]

Thank you so much Davide!

 

[scooterism]

Can I also run 2x 12v recirculation pumps as well?

 

[arzaman]

Can I also run 2x 12v recirculation pumps as well?

You mean in parallel ? yes if the total current is below 2A (check also the startup current) and you don't use the 2nd DC out
In case you want to mange independently...you need an application logic behind...a program ...a use case.
Currently pump in auto mode is linked to mashing program
In manual mode off course you can swtich on and off on demand

Davide

 

[scooterism]

All wired up and running, mash temp probe is reading 4500 deg c for some strange reason..

 

[scooterism]

After some wire swapping and stuff, it now reads around -76 odd degrees..

 

[nosco]

I had the same problem (reading -70). After re-checking the wiring the problem was fixed. Actually I had it wired up as per the video tutorial but when I wired it up to wiring diagram it was fixed. I think both where correct but its a matter of changing the setting in the Smartpid to match the wiring. ie make sure the element (mash tun) is set to DC1 and wired to DC1, the pump is set to RL2 and wired to RL2. Check that the temp probe is set to the right NTC Beta setting too.

 

[scooterism]

Still no luck, i changed around,hex heats up very well but temp reading is way off.

 

[nosco]

The temp probe terminal has three inputs. Try leaving the one in the middle input and changing the wire on either side of it, if that makes sense. Assuming your probe only has 2 wires. Also make sure your probe setting is set to the right type of probe.

 

[scooterism]

Im using the 18B something 3 wire ( sorry cant remember ). With that setting smartpid reads 'fails'. But with smartpid set to ntc it reads - 2.3.
I've changed the wires around. I don't know what sort of numbers i should get with a multimeter, but the ohms change as I cross different wires.

 

[arzaman]

All wired up and running, mash temp probe is reading 4500 deg c for some strange reason..

Hi
can you tell me what type of probe are you using, how do you connect and how do you configure in the HW confguration and unit parameter ??

If you need further support suggest you to contact me via email or FB page chat... forum and this thread maybe is not the best way to troubleshoot your case and provide best real time support

merry xmas
Davide

 

[scooterism]

Will do.

 

[scooterism]

Just to clear up the above discussion, I am having trouble getting my temp sensors to work with my smartPID.

As it turns out, after contacting the ebay seller from whom I purchased the sensors from, he informs me that he had been supplied the wrong kind of sensors and they are not compatible with SmartPID.

And just to add, I tried a NTC from a STC-1000 and SmartPID displayed an accurate temp.

 

[andyt23]

Hi all,

Apologies for the noob question here. Does the PID part of this mean that if I'm using a 2400KW heating element to mash, it will control the power sent to the element, i.e. not run it at full heat but at a heat that is necessary to keep it at temp? If that is the case then why does the Grainfather have two elements?

Thanks

 

[hairydog]

Usually the PID controller will signal to a solid state relay which has the grunt to drive the amps to the element,some relays are on/off
power to the element and some will vary the current,not sure about the 2 elements I think it might get a better even heat.

 

[Yorg]

Ehm,
I went to their website.
Out of stock, not contact details. Feels like this has fallen over.
Anyone know otherwise?

 

[jimmyfozzers]

Ehm,
I went to their website.
Out of stock, not contact details. Feels like this has fallen over.
Anyone know otherwise?

I've been in fairly regular contact with Davide over some issues I've been having. Last message was yesterday, so I'm pretty sure the project is still active. You can contact him at [email protected].

 

[jimmyfozzers]

On a related note, can anyone post their PID gains that they've had success with?

I find that even at the lowest I value of 0.01 I'm getting big overshoots due to integral windup. But without an I gain the controller never quite gets to the set point.

My workaround currently is to leave in PD mode with P at 55.0 and D at 4.0, and put the set point 0.1 C above where I want it.