Mill Motors

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Black n Tan said:
I sent an email earlier in the week and got told it would be available in the next week or so.
I'm just waiting for the new current limiting model to be available as well.
 
stuck on the PSU..not sure which one I should be buying??
 
Hi Grainer
There are several links in this thread for power supply on ebay. That os where I got mine and it works a treat. There are also some warnings against a particular seller on ebay as they miss label their supplies as being higher current then they actually can deliver.

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
yeah.. but it does not have specifics about current amps etc..

suggested is.. but is this the best one??: 12v 30A 360w
 
Yep
12 volts
30 amps

I put one of the volt and current meters on mine as mentioned in a post in this thread and I have seen it hit about 17 amps doing some wheat but it is usually about 10 to 12 amps with malt. It idles about 1 amp with no grain.

The speed slows down when it is under load and I have to turn the knob up to desired speed under load. It chewed through about 6kg in a bit over a minute and a half.
Power supply did not even warm up.

I have a stainless steel 2mm shear pin in mine and have broken it twice but is simple to replace and saves breakages in the mill.

Jamès


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
I have the larger older Mill Master Mill, and it draws a good 20+ amps.

The way I set the speed is to have the speed control at zero RPM, fill up my hopper, switch on the motor and gradually increase the speed on the controller until I get a nice steady, slow crush. Since I use a Braumeister, a rougher crush is best so this method works well for me.

Also I used the 12V 30A eBay supply as well with the current meter I posted about above.

Hope this helps

Cheers,
Matt
 
I've got a 35A psu that works well. I'll try and link the seller when I get on the pc later this avo Grainer.
 
Hi MattSR

I have a braumiser with Matho controller running the Ard Bir software so same kind of setup. I do same thing set mill, fill hopper, turn on and wind up the power until it is in the sweet spot. Love the sound and the smell.
James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
It is a delicious sound indeed :)

I always prefer a slow crush to a fast one, so I just wind up the wick just enough to get it turning at a rate similar to what I would get by hand cranking it. The PWM controller just holds it there nicely!
 
Grainer said:
stuck on the PSU..not sure which one I should be buying??

Grainer, I used this seller. I bought the 400W, 33A model for about $40 delivered. Pretty quick delivery from memory and the unit seems to stack up to its rating.
 
Camo6 said:
Grainer, I used this seller. I bought the 400W, 33A model for about $40 delivered. Pretty quick delivery from memory and the unit seems to stack up to its rating.
done.. bought it
 
Camo6 said:
Grainer, I used this seller. I bought the 400W, 33A model for about $40 delivered. Pretty quick delivery from memory and the unit seems to stack up to its rating.
Done.. also got a MM-3 coming from the states .. stainless !! :super:
 
Grainer said:
Done.. also got a MM-3 coming from the states .. stainless !! :super:
I much prefer a geared mill over non-geared. More crushing, less tearing. Have used both MashMaster and Monster extensively.
 
I'm not an electronics person so just wondering what does current limiting actually do? Does it protect it somehow?
I just recieved the old model in the post and am interested in knowing the difference.
 
Hi Milk Lizard, apparently every now and then you can get a rock in your grain and this can mess up your mall's rollers, the current limiting will hopefully trip out the mill before too much damage is done. There are other ways you can achieve the same result, one is a shear pin and another is a clutched coupling.
 
Wort said:
Hi Milk Lizard, apparently every now and then you can get a rock in your grain and this can mess up your mall's rollers, the current limiting will hopefully trip out the mill before too much damage is done. There are other ways you can achieve the same result, one is a shear pin and another is a clutched coupling.
Thanks heaps for the clarification Wort. I plan on getting a clutched coupler for this so I guess I have that part sorted. I'm assuming you mean shear pin in the motor assemby with the 12mm bar?
 
No worries mate, yeah I think that's where it goes. I've been saving up for this motor for a while as I have an old monster of a motor on mine and a very large pulley. One day :)
 
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