Mill Motors

[Jase]

Sorry mate. Grub screw over key

 

[Spookhud]

Sorry I don't quite understand how it's slipping if it's key and grub screwed with .02 clearance

 

[Jase]

Me either.

 

[zwitter]

Hi Jase
Is the shaft on the monster mill just round or does it have a keyway (slot) milled in it?
If it has a keyway then use a hacksaw to put a keyway in the 3/8 side of the coupler and then insert a key.

I am of course assuming you have tightened the grub screw up?
Which coupler did you buy? They can have grub screws that actually are radial to the shaft and tighten onto the actual shaft or tangential where they tighten a clamp around the shaft. If you have the first type you can tighten the grub screw into the keyway. Or you can file a flat on the shaft and tighten onto the flat. The second type should just tighten up. If you have tightened it so far that the screw has closed the gap then you could use a file and make the gap a little wider or put a shim around the shaft. Aluminium foil would do but may be a pain getting it in there. Or a bit of an old feeler gauge would work. Or you could drill a hole through the coupler and shaft and put a pin through.
Or buy another coupler with a smaller hole.
James


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[Camo6]

Since the brewery is out of commission for a couple of weeks I found some time to install the little ammeter/voltmeter into the mill cabinet. Completely unnecessary but cool nonetheless. Thanks for posting the link Mattsr.

 

[zwitter]

Hi millers!
Well I finally finished the basic grain mill. I used the 12mm to 1/2" coupler from ebay and the power supply recommended in this thread. I also put one of those current and voltage displays in. Works a treat'

I am interested what you use as a pin to connect the shaft to the motor. I drilled a 2mm hole through the 12mm stainless shaft and initially used 2mm copper wire but that was too soft. Then I used some 2mm welding stainless filler rod and that seems pretty good. But while milling 4.2 kg of malt it crept up to 6amps and ping, the stainless snapped like a twig. Replaced it but wondering if I need something a bit harder or if that is exactly what it is for?

James


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[Jase]

Hi millers!
Well I finally finished the basic grain mill. I used the 12mm to 1/2" coupler from ebay and the power supply recommended in this thread. I also put one of those current and voltage displays in. Works a treat'

Hi James,

Any chance of posting the link from the eBay coupler that you used?

Cheers,
Jase

 

[MattSR]

zwitter - I used a 4mm steel bolt and haven't had any problems so far. If anything it's probably too strong, but I am waiting for the current limiting supply to be released so I can upgrade to that

Cheers,
Matt

 

[Milk-lizard84]

Hi millers!
Well I finally finished the basic grain mill. I used the 12mm to 1/2" coupler from ebay and the power supply recommended in this thread. I also put one of those current and voltage displays in. Works a treat'

I am interested what you use as a pin to connect the shaft to the motor. I drilled a 2mm hole through the 12mm stainless shaft and initially used 2mm copper wire but that was too soft. Then I used some 2mm welding stainless filler rod and that seems pretty good. But while milling 4.2 kg of malt it crept up to 6amps and ping, the stainless snapped like a twig. Replaced it but wondering if I need something a bit harder or if that is exactly what it is for?

James


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Very tidy looking set up. Just wondering did you make the hopper yourself?

 

[zwitter]

Hi
The hopper was bought from Craft Brewer in Brisbane when I bought the mill. The hopper is ok, but only holds only about 2Kg grain and while it works I always think I am going to break it. It is just 4 pieces of perspex with cuts and milled bits and it slides together and sits on top.

I am keen to make one out of stainless? And bolt it on but the tools I have are not quite right for sheet metal work. May see what is available or see what getting the bits lasercut may cost?

The coupler is linked earlier in this thread. The one I bought was this item number 290614816059 you can search ebay for the number and it will come up. About $12 delivered and seems to be reasonable quality. They make lots of different sizes.

The mill does its job fine. Maybe one day I will tidy it up but function over beauty I say.

James




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[Spiesy]

I used a stainless r-clip in mine. It will break if it absolutely has to, but that's a good thing. Would rather a 5c r-clip breaks than the motor rips itself off the bench. It's only broken once in a year of commercial use.

 

[Camo6]

I use a decent sized split pin on mine. I ended up trimming the ends flush and chucked a rubber end cap on it to stop it catching on anything. Must be from all the OHS/SWMS I've been dealing with lately. I kinda want to stick an ''Out of Service" tag on Zwitter's exposed PSU... h34r:

 

[zwitter]

Hey Camo6
The live parts are all protected from fingers and the frame is grounded. ALL (except the HWS) circuit in our house and garage is on individual earth leakage breakers. I am WHS rep at work and I would probably flag it there, but it is safe to use, just not pretty.


I am looking for a box, as long as it is not more than the rest combined!

Zwitter

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[Camo6]

Hey Camo6
The live parts are all protected from fingers and the frame is grounded. ALL (except the HWS) circuit in our house and garage is on individual earth leakage breakers. I am WHS rep at work and I would probably flag it there, but it is safe to use, just not pretty.


I am looking for a box, as long as it is not more than the rest combined!

Zwitter

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Haha! Just a bit of tongue in cheek. I was more referring to my overzealous effort to make a split pin OH&S compliant.

Not wrong about the hopper. I broke off one of the tabs just unwrapping the thing. Put it back in the box and it's been there ever since.

 

[Smokomark]

I also snapped a tab of my hopper first time I used it.
I then grabbed a tube of silicone and sealed the joints both inside and outside the hopper. I now regularly put a 30 lt fermenter full of grain ( 20+kg )straight on top of the hopper with no problems. Its strong as now.

 

[MattSR]

Since the brewery is out of commission for a couple of weeks I found some time to install the little ammeter/voltmeter into the mill cabinet. Completely unnecessary but cool nonetheless. Thanks for posting the link Mattsr.

2015-04-12 16.46.23.jpg

Hi Camo,

No worries, I love the neat integration of everything on your mill. I used RHS steel for mine (mostly because I wanted to practice my MIG welding) and I ended up with a very strong but slightly "agricultural" kinda look with my mill. Either way it isn't going to break in a hurry!

I much prefer the sleek look you have achieved with your build.. Well done!

Further to what the guys at Motion Dynamics have said about power supplies under-performing, I thought I would add a little volt/amp meter to my PWN controller. It only cost $6 and it will give me a great indication of how hard the motor is working and if the power supply is up to the task..

Link here:- http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131280511716

For only $6 with the shunt resistor included I figure its a cheap and effective way to monitor the mills performance...

Cheers,
Matt

After waiting over a month for my meter to arrive, I got it installed and it appears that my supply is perfectly capable of delivering its rated 30 amps of current. when I loaded my MillMaster Mk3 mill up with wheat grain it stopped and grunted a bit at me, so its possible that this motor/gearbox combo is a little too small for the old MallMaster mills with the 2.7" rollers when cracking wheat grain. I had the gap at the standard 1.2mm - maybe wheat requires a different gap....?

Cheers,
Matt

 

[MattSR]

Since the brewery is out of commission for a couple of weeks I found some time to install the little ammeter/voltmeter into the mill cabinet. Completely unnecessary but cool nonetheless. Thanks for posting the link Mattsr.

2015-04-12 16.46.23.jpg

Hi Camo6 - just one more question, is 320mA the no load current draw with your setup? i.e. the mill is just turning with no grain in it?

 

[mikk]

When cracking wheat, mix it in with your barley to give your mill an easier time...

 

[MattSR]

Good idea, but I am planning a wheat beer with at least 70% wheat grain in it.. :/

 

[labels]

Hi millers!
Well I finally finished the basic grain mill. I used the 12mm to 1/2" coupler from ebay and the power supply recommended in this thread. I also put one of those current and voltage displays in. Works a treat'

I am interested what you use as a pin to connect the shaft to the motor. I drilled a 2mm hole through the 12mm stainless shaft and initially used 2mm copper wire but that was too soft. Then I used some 2mm welding stainless filler rod and that seems pretty good. But while milling 4.2 kg of malt it crept up to 6amps and ping, the stainless snapped like a twig. Replaced it but wondering if I need something a bit harder or if that is exactly what it is for?

James


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A self locking pin is best. This is a round hollow pin with a slit up one side, they are made of hard steel like spring steel. Use a pin just slightly oversize and the slit will close up a little when pressed into the hole locking the pin into place. (sometimes known as selock pins)