Dedicated Herms Guide, Problems And Solution Thread

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Was looking at the beerbelly hop screens, I've never had a trub cone look like that before hsb, obviously it doesn't obstruct the whirlpool too much.
That picture is from a witbier, so the white in the hops/floaty orange bits are just dried orange peel residue. Normally get a nice mound of hops that holds stable until it collapses at the very end of drain to cube.
That is purely from a 5 minute manual whirlpool with a big wooden spoon, I don't recirc in the kettle.

Be interested in your solution to Mash return. I've used a piece of silicon tubing just resting on grain bed but have recently started to worry about channelling/looking at alternatives. I could just put holes in the tubing, to mimic your classic copper fly sparge style return. Or I've also considered using a big copper showerhead.

Resting a metal ring on the grain bed sounds fine. No different to others using saucers or tubing or custom built ones with a saucer collecting from tubing. You could just have a length of silicon tubing to allow for adjusting height, then the ring. You'd want the holes in the ring pointing away from the grain bed, angled in and out at enough of a degree so as not to just fire straight through the grain.

I've yet to see a solution that really inspired me personally.
 
Next thing is figuring out a neat wort return, I'm thinking of bending up a stainless ring, drilling some holes in it, and sitting it on the grainbed. Does it need to be suspended or is it fine just sitting on there, any suggestions on where to aim the holes?

Cheers

NDH


the wort return into the MLT from HX, I think should be in the wort and dispersed so it doesn't cause channelling.

I have mine coming in the top through a nipple then into a copper pipe that I aim on the side HLT so hopefully to minimize channelling
 
I'm still trying to fins something I'm happy with, ideally I was going to put 3 hooks/tabs to hold the ring at various heights and TIG them to the inside of the MLT then make the ring sit on/in the hooks/tabs. Still at the design development stage when I canned the idea because I can see myself breaking one bellow the grain bed while mashing in. I've got a bit of time till I need a solution so keep brainstorming I guess.
 
I've just finished the last of the plumbing and wiring for my HERMS with PID. I am using the Auber SYL-2352P (with Ramp and Soak). I am having a bit of trouble understanding the config of the unit. I was hoping that somone who has a better understanding of these could help out.

I have it configured for my RTD Sensor, and it is displaying the correct temp, so its not an issue with that. The Step functions are where I'm hitting a wall.

Can someone tell me their config and what it all means. I've read the manual a few times, but it would be easier to understand in brewer-speak...
 
are the results from running the autotune on a PID readable somewhere?

reason for asking is that i often do different size batches all the time, so it obviously takes longer to heat the strike water for a triple batch BIAB than it does a 10L batch - and also there would be a big difference in the heat / power required to maintain the correct mash temp...this leads me to believe there will be different values applied to the PID algorithm to reach the set temp (massive assumption on my behalf)

do i have to autotune every time i change batches or can i do it once then look up the results somewhere? this would mean i could just keep a log of the different size batches and just plug the values in at the start of the day

edit: left out words
 
are the results from running the autotune on a PID readable somewhere?

reason for asking is that i different size batches all the time, so it obviously takes longer to heat the strike water for a triple batch BIAB than it does a 10L batch - and also there would be a big difference in the maintain the correct mash temp...this leads me to believe there will be different values applied to the PID algorithm to reach the set temp (massive assumption on my behalf)

do i have to autotune every time i change batches or can i do it once then look up the results somewhere? this would mean i could just keep a log of the different size batches and just plug the values in at the start of the day
From my understanding of PID, you do have different initial tuning values for each parameter with a different batch size. For one thing, with the same heat source, the larger batch will respond differently to the application of a fixed amount of heat.

For an interesting read on tuning PIDs, check out this article: http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Servo-Tunin...thout-a-PhD.pdf

edit in italics
 
ok thanks Bonj. i'll keep note of each band's setting with the different batch sizes from now on

and thx for the link...could take me a few days to get through that
 
The PID I run on my (RIMS) system does not overshoot with my batch size - even if I change my batch size. Typvial for me is 23L, but have done 10 - 40L with the same settings and all ok.

I would set it for your typical batch size then just use those PID settings for all brews. The grain helps buffer the temperature compared to just testing the PID with water only.
 
finally got my RIMS set up going this week and did my first batch on it today. brew went great, probably need to tune my PID a bit better as it overshot a couple of times, but apart from that everything else works. did have one problem with an air lock in the silicone tube where it loops up to go back to mash but that shouldnt be too hard to sort out. heres a couple of pics now that ive finally finished (for now).

PC040002.JPGPC040003.JPGPC040004.JPGPC040005.JPGPC040006.JPG

Cheers,

Stewart
 
Awesome Stew, whack it in this thread though mate!

RIMS thread

(RIMS ftw!)

Love the boxing kangaroo and aussie flag background.

What was the HLT in a former life?
 
pretty sure it was a flour bin from a bakery. makes a good HLT and is pretty thick SS too
 
I'm finishing the process of putting together a HERMS system, and I have one question that I can't find a straightforward answer to.

I've wound my soft annealed copper for my heat exchange, but the gaps between the winds are too big. It's like an uncompressed spring, but I really want it to be tighter (to reduce the amount of water I need in my HLT/HX). Does anyone have a way of compressing that spring with something boil-safe? I was thinking some copper wire and weaving it between the coils to keep it tight. I'm also planning on using it as a chilling coil, so I'd love a solution that I can keep sanitary and might survive boiling wort.

Anyone got any ideas? I'll take some photos when I get home if my description isn't clear.
 
Don't worry too much! If your coils are hard together, it would reduce your surface area.

I only have around 3m in my HERMs Hex, and still ramp at around 1C/min.

Just give it a go. If you're really worried, get some copper wire and just string it around everything, then tighten it up.

Cheers
 
Don't worry too much! If your coils are hard together, it would reduce your surface area.

I only have around 3m in my HERMs Hex, and still ramp at around 1C/min.

Just give it a go. If you're really worried, get some copper wire and just string it around everything, then tighten it up.

Cheers
I agree with Nick...
My heat exchange coil is my old immersion chiller....
It's probably about 3m too...
Sorta been pulled apart and then pushed back together when i started using it in the heat exchange...
My heat exchange is a 10L pot with a G&G element in it, and i'm getting 1 to 1.5 degree a min...
Just give it a go !
Cheers
Ferg
 
Hi Frag Dog ;
Just buy a length of copper strip 2-3 cm wide . Drill holes to the size of the copper tubing of how ever many turns you have and then feed the stip around the copper tubing , through the holes . You may have to make 2 - 3 of these strips but it will keep everything straight and tidy .
IMG_20110421_141346.jpg



Sorta like this .Except you only need one hole per turn .
 
I've just had to abandon a Stout due to my false bottom (again) completely inverting.

My set up is single level 4V HERMS. MLT and HLT are keggles.

Mash Tun has a domed false bottom with Silicon tubing up to outlet.
March Pump recirculates everything.

I always try and minimise the pull on the grain bed by throttling after the pump.

This time the flow was just so poor straight away that whatever I did, it didn't improve. (reprime pump, check all connections, stir grain bed in the end)
Eventually frustration got the better of me and I tried the pump full tilt to see if I could shift it, that's probably what totally flattened the false bottom against the base of the keggle.(though it might have already happened)

I mash thin (4:1) to try and avoid a stuck mash. 4 hours and 6kg down the drain, disappointing.

Anyone had similar problems pulling on their grain bed with the March Pump? I really don't want to make a Grant, 5 vessels really is too much!
I'm at the end of my tether with the false bottom setup, it should be fine, used it so many times, but last few months it just doesn't seem right.
Flow through the pump seemed OK, no sign of air, but I'm sure my problems lie under my false bottom.
 
i did the first time i used mine but that was because i didnt throttle the pump back, i have the ball valve on the pump outlet about half closed. maybe your crush is too fine, apart from that im not sure what it'd be.

Cheers,

Stewart
 
Same thing happened to my 12" fb. Last time I used it I think I started to recirc to soon and too fast, the whole thing collapsed and I chucked it. What I do now is dough in and let the mash rest for 15 mins, this gives me time to take a Ph reading and add salts if needed. The benefit to the mash, I think, is a well hydrated grist which then allows a good recirc. I also no longer use one of those fb's.
 
Thanks guys, good idea on letting it all sit for 15, certainly can't hurt.

I think I'm going to look at hard plumbing it. The FB might be shifting around a little, putting pressure on the silicone tubing.
I can't be certain without a "mashcam" where exactly the problem is but I've probably got enough odds and ends lying around to eliminate that possibility. Then I'll just hose it out to clean it.

If that doesn't work, I'll be building a manifold!

First time this happened the false bottom did a nice clean flip, going from concave to convex, so I could just turn it over and carry on using it.
This time I totally mangled it, will see if I can post a pic of it, looks like it's been hit by a train. Was a 12" one.
 
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