Dedicated Herms Guide, Problems And Solution Thread

[sponge]

One more question.

Ive noticed quite a few people insulating their HEX. Do people find that if they overshoot their temperature, it takes quite a while for it to get back down to the set value?

I'd just be thinking that cooling down a decent volume of water would take a while, and doing that in an insulated container would slow things down fairly dramatically.

Is it worth not insulating if the volume used for the HEX is >10L or so. I'll be using a 19L BigW pot for it...


Sponge

 

[hsb]

I can't see the point myself (and haven't) for exactly the reasons you describe, it just makes it harder to control so far as I can see.
You want it to shed heat reasonably quickly so it doesn't overshoot? Others mileage may vary though but small mass of water = easy to control with an element = no need to insulate imo? You don't buy insulated household kettles, you just reheat them.

 

[sponge]

My thoughts exactly.

Cheers for the clarification.

I'm sure some people who insulate take that into consideration when controlling the temps to avoid overshooting and whatnot, but I think I'll just go nude


h34r:


Sponge

 

[JaseH]

Or if anyone knows of a decent 1/2" SS probe suitable for the STC just let me know. I wouldn't mind getting this all sorted out fairly soon...

Cheers,

Sponge

EDIT: Ross may have beaten me to it and saved the day.

You could try a thermowell with the sensor supplied with the STC1000? I just ordered one from here for my HLT(scroll to bottom of page): http://beerbelly.com.au/fittings.html

 

[sponge]

I was thinking about the thermowell path, but think I'll just look for a direct contact probe.

Might even pick up a thermowell as well just to test the difference in accuracy, if there is one...

But as you say, thats always an option which would work just as well I'd be thinking.



Sponge

 

[Cortez The Killer]

Sponge

You could grab a stainless 1/2" thermowell like one of these or similar

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/THERMOWELL-304s...=item51812d1e6e

Insert the existing STC-1000 plastic probe in all the way and then fill with some sort of medium eg silicone sealant which is rated to 150*C

And you'll have a your own stainless probe

Cheers

 

[Crusty]

I can't see the point myself (and haven't) for exactly the reasons you describe, it just makes it harder to control so far as I can see.
You want it to shed heat reasonably quickly so it doesn't overshoot? Others mileage may vary though but small mass of water = easy to control with an element = no need to insulate imo? You don't buy insulated household kettles, you just reheat them.

Very valid point. I haven't insulated mine & don't see the need to. Temps lost or gained are very quick to correct themselves & I am extremely happy with my PT100 & PID. Temps are spot on.

 

[hsb]

I have a short themowell left over from my setup you can have. It's only something like 3" though (would have to measure forgotten the size.)
I use a compression fitting/ probe direct in wort, might as well if accuracy is the whole goal of the exercise.

 

[mxd]

One more question.

Ive noticed quite a few people insulating their HEX. Do people find that if they overshoot their temperature, it takes quite a while for it to get back down to the set value?

I'd just be thinking that cooling down a decent volume of water would take a while, and doing that in an insulated container would slow things down fairly dramatically.

Is it worth not insulating if the volume used for the HEX is >10L or so. I'll be using a 19L BigW pot for it...


Sponge

I insulate but I run a PID so overshoot is theoretically not an issue.

 

[bradsbrew]

How fast should I be recirculating the mash through the HERMS? I am currently just having the ball valve fully open.

Cheers

 

[JaseH]

Insert the existing STC-1000 plastic probe in all the way and then fill with some sort of medium eg silicone sealant which is rated to 150*C

I think the best stuff to use is thermal grease, what they use between heat sinks and IC/CPU's in computers. Pack some of that into the thermowell around the sensor. Its designed for conducting heat between two mating surfaces. Then you could plug the end with something like silicon sealant if you wanted?

 

[QldKev]

How fast should I be recirculating the mash through the HERMS? I am currently just having the ball valve fully open.

Cheers

I like to do it as fast as you can without getting a stuck mash.

 

[raven19]

My max flow rate varies on mash volume - similar to Kev's post above - to avoid a stuck mash.

I tend to have the valve open only 50% maximum of late.

 

[hsb]

Same here, normally have it about 1/3 to 1/2 open, no need to go too quick, only 20-40l of liquid in the loop anyway.
I'm finding better results from letting the mash sit for 10 after dough in and I dump the first litre out of Tun back on top as its often got stray bits of grain in.

 

[sponge]

Hey all,

Just getting around to wiring up my temp controllers for the HX and also the HLT.

Ive bought a project box big enough to house both units and have almost finished cutting the holes for all the bits and pieces.

Since I will only be using the heating side of two STC1000's for this, I will have two main supplies coming in to feed either STC and then have the two elements attached to the respective STC. All in and out feeds will be using flush mount gpo's and not worry about having extension cords going in and out of the control unit - more for aesthetics than anything else.

One question I had is that I plan on fitting a 15A breaker for each circuit (2500W elements) as seen on http://www.photonage.com.au/15a-flush-moun...ker-p-6642.html

Should I be putting these in before or after the switch (LED lit DPST rocker switch) which I'm going to use to turn these on/off? I was thinking before to protect the switches themselves as well?

Also, just because I've never used a small flush circuit breaker like this before, do I just have the live wire coming in one terminal and out the other? ie. not using the neutral wire at all? Might seem like a real simple question but just thought I'd check since I hadn't used these before.

One last question. I know not many people have air vents or whatever on the boxes with a single STC (I dont for the one I use to run the fridge), but with having two in the one box and not much extra internal space (pretty cramped with all the electrical devices and wiring), would it be worth drilling a few holes in the top of the box to help reduce any excessive heat that may occur from running both units simultaneously?

Anyways, thanks for the help.


Sponge

 

[cdbrown]

I would have thought the best place for the breaker is before the switch in order to protect the the circuit. If it's after the switch and there's something wrong with the switch (loose wiring) then there's no protection.

I haven't noticed that the STCs get too warm - and it's on all the time for the fridge - so probably wouldn't worry about putting holes in the box.

 

[sponge]

Yea was pretty much sold on having it before the switch. no point not having the switch protect and therefore the circuit. Just thought I'd throw the question out as an insurance policy

I might just make a few holes in the top of the box for the heat to dissipate, but as you say, it probably wouldnt be a problem not having them there.

Main question was just with the wiring with the flush mount breakers. Since its only a single pole 2 terminal breaker (as seen in the link above), the live wire just goes in one terminal and out the other? Neutral would just pass straight onto the next piece of equipment, which in this case would be the DPST switch?

Cheers,


Sponge

 

[QldKev]

Yea was pretty much sold on having it before the switch. no point not having the switch protect and therefore the circuit. Just thought I'd throw the question out as an insurance policy

I might just make a few holes in the top of the box for the heat to dissipate, but as you say, it probably wouldnt be a problem not having them there.

Main question was just with the wiring with the flush mount breakers. Since its only a single pole 2 terminal breaker (as seen in the link above), the live wire just goes in one terminal and out the other? Neutral would just pass straight onto the next piece of equipment, which in this case would be the DPST switch?

Cheers,


Sponge

I would run the breaker to protect all the gear, so first.

By the looks it just switches the active, so active in, active out

I would def put holes in the box with the 2500w load. On mine I put them in the sides, on one side towards the top, on the opposite towards the bottom. That way you get a cross ventilation happening.



QldKev

 

[Yob]

Started a little Hermies today



bent round my old partial's pot



loosely assembled in a Big W pot



this is going to be a temporary set up till I get the Shed refitted, once that happens I want to set it all up different and want to combine a HX coil in the HLT.. I wanted to do that today but I think I need to plan it more.. I dont want to screw up my HLT with impatience.. maybe hold out for a SS Bling jobbie....

The only issue I have is that I suspect I will need to have the pump lower at the start to prime the pump and higher than the MT to finish and drain the HX?

4V, it's all very exciting.. :icon_drunk:

Yob

 

[hsb]

Thanks Pete ( re: http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&p=901539 ) :icon_cheers:

If you can hit the 90s without stirring, I'm confident I can get close enough.

- The Batch Sparge Branch of the HERMS (not) Stirring Committee.