Sweet taste? Help!!!

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Skillz

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Iam having a constant issue with my beer coming out overly sweet.
Could you please look over my last recipe and see if anything stands out.
I have taken alot of precautions to lower oxygen to the point that this beer wasn't even dry hopped and then all the standard low oxygen options were followed to packaging.
I suppose the main question is should i ditch all other malts or is it somthing else?
Screenshot_20201225-132008_Brewfather.jpg
Thanks in advance.
 
What do you use to measure your temperature? Odds on you are mashing at a higher temperature than you think. MHB has frequently posted you need to check your thermometer against a laboratory grade one. It would be the first thing I would check, as your recipe looks fine.
 
philrob is right, that would be my first thought. There is a lot of info missing that would help so some of the following might be redundant, depending on your processes.
The recipe looks OK not too much Xal (~2%) not too much Munich...
First up is - if your beer is too sweet mash cooler, say 2oC, That presupposes its well mixed, you are mixing water and malt in a manner that isn't killing off most of your Beta Amylase. That you are mashing long enough (60 minutes+)
The rest of the answers come down to making sure all the other conditions are right. Drop the Bi-Carb in your water
all it can do is raise the pH. Then you add a bunch of other stuff to lower the pH, not making sense.

Your boil can play a role, good rolling boil for an hour is really important, short boils leave lots of crud in the beer.
Some persistent infections can give a sweet flavour, as can low levels of Diacetyl...

I would be adding the Campden to the cold strike water so its there as the water heats, gives the Metabisulfite time to react with the Chlorine and for any excess to vent off, I'm a little leery of having too much SO2 in the water when I mash in, its very reactive and can form some strange chemicals.

What would be more helpful, would be your finished beer figures for this brew, lets people see the real attenuation and efficiency among other factors. Being there would be the biggest assist, but more complete mash/boil times, measured wort pH... will have to do.
Mark
 
Thanks for the reply.
I only tried the bicarb as the local home brew guy suggested it but I really didn't see the point either.
Was a 60min mash and 60 min boil, have included brew stats, was off on numbers by a fair way this brew.
I'm starting to suspect and infection of some sort as my last 2 ipa's and this have had the same sweet taste.
I did do a stout that had turned out well though.
Screenshot_20201225-211145_Brewfather.jpg
 
Thanks for the reply.
I only tried the bicarb as the local home brew guy suggested it but I really didn't see the point either.
Was a 60min mash and 60 min boil, have included brew stats, was off on numbers by a fair way this brew.
I'm starting to suspect and infection of some sort as my last 2 ipa's and this have had the same sweet taste.
I did do a stout that had turned out well though.View attachment 119723
As MHB said, if you're mashing too high it can lead to a sweet finish. The other issue may be an infection, as your attenuation seems OK.

Bi-Carb will raise the pH of the mash, which counteracts what you are trying to achieve. Who ever it was at the shop who told you to add it should be avoided in the future in my opinion. Trust me, I'm a stranger on the internet.

But seriously avoid adding it in my opinion.

As for the sweet taste, can you provide some more information to help us determine the issue?

Can you describe the taste? Is it buttery? Is it cloying? Is it a sugary sweetness or an over ripe fruit type sweetness?

Does the taste occur early on and diminish, or does it increase over time?

How soon do you notice the taste? Straight after fermenting? After a period of time in the keg? Do you keg or bottle?
 
Pretty much where I'm heading to.
Apparent attenuation of, well I get closer to 76% than the 75% listed indicates that the wort is normally fermentable.

In addition to the flavours kadmium asked about, look for associated smells to, they can often be a good clue to what is goin
 
Mash cooler. Makes a more fermentable wort.

You can make some small, four liter test batches trying different mash temps and see what happens. Shame to make 20 liter test batches.

You could try dropping 500g of malt and replacing it with 400g of sugar. This will thin the body though, slightly. Mashing cooler will thin the body too.
 
Recipe looks fine
Your OF/FG figures are fine so it has definitely completed fermentation.

How 'sweet' is this if its the sweetness.

Trial solution suggested already. Mash down lower e.g. 65 or even slightly lower.

Additionally do a batch with No crystal. Some people find the sweetness of crystal too much. This will effect colour etc, so look at mashing temp first.

Maybe even experimental and try a super low mash temp (63) to compare to your usual batch using the same recipe and see what difference that makes for you.

Just an idea. In the mean time I'm sure the brew you made is still nice and enjoyable!
 
G’day Skillz, my 2c fwiw, your fg is quite good your hops are not what I use much. Sweetness is subjective :-} I like my beer dry and bitter, the malt bill looks ok.

Working with what you’ve got -
I would consider not having a mash-out and keep the 'top heat' to 67C
Getting the fg down to 1005 would be a target
Yeast management. I would pitch 2 pkts and be aware of your pitching temperatures
Sanitation is critical to getting lower fg, whatever you do do it twice as well
Upping the bitterness slightly? its all down to your taste buds…….
 
G’day Skillz, my 2c fwiw, your fg is quite good your hops are not what I use much. Sweetness is subjective :-} I like my beer dry and bitter, the malt bill looks ok.

Working with what you’ve got -
I would consider not having a mash-out and keep the 'top heat' to 67C
Getting the fg down to 1005 would be a target
Yeast management. I would pitch 2 pkts and be aware of your pitching temperatures
Sanitation is critical to getting lower fg, whatever you do do it twice as well
Upping the bitterness slightly? its all down to your taste buds…….
In my opinion FG isn't a real indicator of residual sweetness nor 'mouth feel' from what I have found. 1.005 FG doesn't mean a lot without knowing the OG or the malt bill.

I have had NEIPAs that finished at 1.016 and were far from "sweet" and Czech Pilsner according to BJCP should finish 1.013 to 1.017 and they are arguably the king of clean crisp lagers. So really just saying "target 1.005" doesn't mean much because it may mean his yeast only attenuates 40% or might need to attenuate 110% depending on OG. Just my thoughts.
 
sorry not adding up, unless I'm missing something
1609044574191.png

If he went from 1.054 to 1.005 we are talking 90% apparent attenuation, not really likely with US-05.

And why would you recommend skipping a mash out?
The efficiency is lower than I would be happy with already, not doing a mashout wont help that at all.
Mark
 
He went from 1054 to 1013 hence why I suggested getting it a little lower, not hard to do with a good process

Lots of articles / recipes I have read recently suggest this top heat, I do it with all my 'bitter styles' it seems to preserve a certain taste

I thought his efficiency was a bit low glancing at it, I only comment on systems like my own re % this and that, maximising your own process to get the most taste…..
 
It is a cloying toffee taste to me, it may be i just don't enjoy the crystal malts taste as when I do a smash beer I seem to enjoy it more for a everyday beer.
Was fermented at 19c for 4 days then taken up 1c a day to 22c then cold crashed for 36hours at 1c.
 
It's pretty much a given that a smash beer wont have any crystal (single malt and single hop), being base malt only.
The ~2% crystal you have in the recipe wont be having all that much of a flavour impact, well not in the direction of being all that toffy caramel sweet, more a colour adjustor. The same for the Munich, there isn't enough there to dominate your flavour profile.
The more you say the more I suspect its a process problem, largely I think its likely you are killing off a lot of your Beta Amylase, could be just how you add your malt and water together. How you are measuring your strike water temperature (unstirred water can be a lot hotter at the top than the bottom - would depend on where its measured). If all the usual good brewing practice are being followed there isn't anything else that's too obvious.

There remains the issue of infection, I have seen a meter long piece of beer line that had good beer going in one end and muck coming out the other, literally that quickly. The inside was full of some nasty biofilm that was flavouring beer as it went past.
Might be well worth going through your system very carefully, including the dispense system, taste the beer at every point (out of fermenter, out of keg, from tap, look at transfer lines....)
You mentioned a stout that came out OK, was it treated the same as your other beers? any differences in the process might point up where problems are coming from.
Mark
 
Thanks Mark
I do a full volume biab I measure the temp with a temp controller in a thermowell a few inches from the bottom and always stir and measure with my thermapen at the top. I stir at the 20min mark when I take my mash ph sample and then once more at another 20mins or so.
As you say that the little amount of spec grains I added wouldn't add up to what I'm experiencing I'm leaning toward the infection.
I have had my system in its current state including lines for 2 or 3 years, I'm pretty ocd so I think I clean and sanitise pretty well but will do a deep clean and line change out.
The stout is probably just hiding the flavour as it is a cherry ripe stout with a fair bit going on.
Thanks for everyone's input.
 
G’day Skillz, my 2c fwiw, your fg is quite good your hops are not what I use much. Sweetness is subjective :-} I like my beer dry and bitter, the malt bill looks ok.

Working with what you’ve got -
I would consider not having a mash-out and keep the 'top heat' to 67C
Getting the fg down to 1005 would be a target
Yeast management. I would pitch 2 pkts and be aware of your pitching temperatures
Sanitation is critical to getting lower fg, whatever you do do it twice as well
Upping the bitterness slightly? its all down to your taste buds…….

I was hoping someone else would pick up on this and ask some questions.
Specifically the idea of not mashing out, I would like to see where this is coming from

He went from 1054 to 1013 hence why I suggested getting it a little lower, not hard to do with a good process

Lots of articles / recipes I have read recently suggest this top heat, I do it with all my 'bitter styles' it seems to preserve a certain taste

I thought his efficiency was a bit low glancing at it, I only comment on systems like my own re % this and that, maximising your own process to get the most taste…..
Did ask in the thread but no real information was provided.
I cant see how it would help anyone to avoid a mashout, in fact everything I can think of says the reverse.
It is possible to create conditions where the hotter you got your mash the more tannins (well Polyphenols) you would extract but that would require very poor water chemistry and the mash pH would be way over the ideal range.
Under good basic brewing conditions it isn't making any sense at all, unless I'm missing something, so if anyone can point to a good reason for running off cool please bring it on.
Mark
 
My comments were initially regarding what Skillz wanted to achieve in his question of reducing his overly sweet beer.

By having a low temperature mash (64 to 69) with no mash-out you get a very fermentable wort. I still sparge but only at Top Heat, you get a slightly lower Og and a nice and dry Fg, long mash long boil. Quite a few breweries do this to certain of their beers I have read this on a number of Yorkshire breweries. It gives a certain taste to the beer, which is why I brew, that I like…. putting a few oats in too. Works a treat with some pale Ales and Bitters
 

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