Mill Motors

[res]

Yeah I know what you mean, been thinking of a cover of some sort to keep the moving parts out of reach.

 

[motiondynamics]

Every day, we see grain crushing rigs that people send to us and I swear to god, some of you would be awesome engineers and definitely need to change your careers!

I'm not sure about the sense controller for the home brewing rig, I don't really think it needs to be anything special except for a shut down when an overload occurs.
Been thinking about it for a while, (the sensing controller that we sell as an option with the motor) I just don't see the point in having a special controller for it because it really doesn't do anything special.

Basically its just a reversible controller (where you can't actually access the reverse function until you actually come up to a jam, in which case you can reverse it to unstick anything that may be stuck in the rollers)I just don't see the point in it really... wouldn't it be better just to have a switch to enter reverse? like a normal bi-directional controller?

I still haven't gone back into the firmware to make any changes because I don't know that I can justify the time I'd need to spend on it for what I see as little benefit. Its still on the original firmware. Going to think this through some more... I think that the sense controller adds unnecessary complexity to something that should be really...um.. painless...!!

Some people complain about having to use the split pins. The whole idea behind those split pins is that they break (shear!) when the load is either too great or there's a stone or something in the roller that shouldn't be there.
Its done like that to protect your mill! Having to do a repair because the machine physically tried to crush a stone would be frustrating. You also want something to give if you accidently get your hand (or tie) stuck in the rollers!
Of course you could just put a bolt through there (which a lot of people do) but remember, every time you break a split pin (which in itself is rare) that could have potentially saved your rollers from damage that could have been avoided.

Keep up the great work with the builds guys! You all inspire me with the incredible workmanship and the teamwork you all show here working together and helping one another out!

 

[res]

I finally got organized enough to hook up my motor, controler etc and have encountered a problem. Both the on/off switch and the speed controler do nothing, I pug it in and the mill turns. Can't switch it off or control the speed, the on/off switch does turn a on board led on and off but the motor keeps turning.
The other concern is the torque seemed quite low even running off a battery. Without the controller using just the power transformer it works amazingly well.
I got the motor from Full Pint and it came with two extra switches which didn't seen needed but after rereading the thread I believe I have the limiting version of the controller instead of the base model.
Does anyone know if this behavior is usual using the limiting controller without the extra switches installed?

 

[contrarian]

I had the same problem and it was because my soldering is terrible and it was shorting at the switch.

If it's not that I have no idea!

 

[res]

Cheers Contrarian, I'll double check but I think it's something else.
I should just buy the extra knob and try it with all the switches in place.

 

[Damranger]

I finally got organized enough to hook up my motor, controler etc and have encountered a problem. Both the on/off switch and the speed controler do nothing, I pug it in and the mill turns. Can't switch it off or control the speed, the on/off switch does turn a on board led on and off but the motor keeps turning.
The other concern is the torque seemed quite low even running off a battery. Without the controller using just the power transformer it works amazingly well.
I got the motor from Full Pint and it came with two extra switches which didn't seen needed but after rereading the thread I believe I have the limiting version of the controller instead of the base model.
Does anyone know if this behavior is usual using the limiting controller without the extra switches installed?

There's a jumper on the board that needs to be removed for the switch to work. Hopefully that helps

 

[MattSR]

I recently needed to replace my controller, and I simply bought the standard one that isn't current sensing and added a DPDT switch to reverse the motor if needed. Simple!!

 

[motiondynamics]

Res's problems were that he had a sense controller but for some reason he ended up with the instructions for the normal controller and of course that meant that every single wire he hooked up was all backwards and incorrect
I was surprised it all still worked after seeing the picture of his wiring. Thank god for all the built in protection!

MattSR make sure your switch can handle the current!!!
If you're using a 3A switch to flip 15-20A that is going to cause a lot of damage!
I always recommend that people use relays for it, its simple to wire a relay up to a small switch because the relay does all the heavy lifting!
Also, what happened to your Sense controller?

 

[fishingbrad]

Just purchased 1 of these MD units. My question (after reading this entire thread) is there a specific drill bit to use through the SS shaft to fit the spilt pin, other that standard Sutton type, also what size pin ? Has someone come up with a better way to secure the spider coupler to the shaft. the minimill comes with a "Keyed" shaft is there a way to incorporate that ? Cheers.

 

[contrarian]

I found that the spider coupler held fine onto the shaft without any keyed area. With my mill shaft it did have a flat side and I just lined this up with the grub screw and haven't had any issues.

It was recommended to me to get an aluminium shaft as this would be easier to drill. I did mine with a hand drill and cheapo bit fine. I can imagine drilling stainless would be a lot harder!

 

[Kingy]

Could someone tell me if this is what I need to connect a md motor to a minimill. 12mm to 1/2inch. Just want to make sure as it's pricey. Is there a cheaper place to get one? Or is this good quality? Cheers

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231704332567

 

[fishingbrad]

That looks like a good quality Kingy, but if you want cheaper, china ones on flea bay. search "spider coupler". $13. I'd post the url but microsoft Edge Sucks.

 

[luggy]

Yeah 12mm to half inch, I got a Lovejoy coupling for around the same price, cant remember where I got it from but

 

[Kingy]

Thanks guys I'll just order that one if yaz reckon it's a reasonable price. Cheers.

 

[zwitter]

Hi Kingy

I bought the ebay cheapy from China and a spare but it has been rock solid performer. The alignment on mine is poor but it works really well any way.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1of-Jaw-Shaft-Coupling-Spider-Flexible-Coupler-12-x-12-7mm-/262387868142?hash=item3d178921ee:g:hQYAAOSwUUdXD04P

if you search "spider coupler 12 12.7" there are a few that come up and they are probably all made in the same place.

james zwitter

 

[bigmacthepunker]

Mine needs a little shim, now rock solid. I love my motor, best thing I've done, beats a ****** drill.

 

[zwitter]

Hi. BIgmacthepunker
Yeah love it. Makes some odd noises when it hits a small stone and I use 2mm stainless welding ros as my shear pin and have broken a few times but would hate to get a finger in there as I think it would hurt.

I put voltage and current meter on and it has hit about 15 amps but normally chews through the grain at about 7 amps

James
Zwitter


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[Engibeer]

Okay, a few questions after speed reading this thread...

I'm planning on ordering the MD AHB Special w/ speed control module etc for my Mashmaster MiniMill.

I've contacted BSC at Caboolture and ordered an L075 12mm-12.7mm coupling. I believe it's the standard S0X so it will have a rubber coupling.

From what I understand from this thread and the available manuals on http://catalog.lovejoy-inc.com/viewitems/standard-jaw-couplings-l-type/solid-center-spiders-metric? , the coupling will have a keyway for a shaft keyway?

MD Mill motor takes a straight 12mm shaft?

Do all lovejoy couplings have a gub screw / set screw which I can utilise after drilling a recession in the 12mm shaft from the MD motor?

If so, does the coupling come with the set screw or will I have to acquire this elsewhere?

Does the set screw need to be hardened to manage the required torque?

I will need to source a length of 12mm shaft with a hole drilled in it for the pin at the gearbox connection...would mild steel be fine?

A few people have mentioned in this thread that they have some shaft to spare?

 

[Engibeer]

Okay, further to the above, I see that MD has the stainless shaft available.

Does this have a hole drilled in one end for the gearbox connection?

I don't own a drill press.

Cheers,

Matt

 

[Camo6]

You can get aluminium rod off ebay pretty cheap. Easy to drill with just a cordless. Coupling will come with a grub screw which clamps the shafts so won't need a detent.