Mill Motors

[Engibeer]

I purchased a lovejoy one from BSC as I'm impatient.

The ones from China estimated two weeks for shipping.

Cost me $60 including postage to get it from the Caboolture store to the Sunshine Coast.

Rang up and ordered on Friday and it was in their branch yesterday.

Overall, the guy on the phone was very helpful.

 

[Engibeer]

Thanks to everyone for the tips.

Mounted mine to an old TV Unit that my grain mill was mounted to previously.

Picked up a couple of galvanised brackets from the local hardware store to mount it to the bench. I expected to have to drill new holes in the brackets, however the existing holes lined up PERFECTLY.

I intend to get some plywood and enclose the unit to contain the dust.

Currently running the unit using a car battery, as I'm still awaiting delivery of the PSU from China.

My soldering skills are pretty crap, but there doesn't seem to be much variance in speed from adjustment of the speed controller dial? I'm wondering whether the variance in speed is not apparent to the naked eye, or whether it is the fault of my crap soldering.













Cheers,

Matt

 

[Engibeer]

BTW if anyone wants the make/dimensions of the brackets, let me know!

I pulled the stickers off... should have posted before I did.

Shop is just down the road so I can find out next time I'm in.

Approximately it's a Zenith Galv Bracket 100mm x 40mm x ~5mm thick

 

[Camo6]

I'd be checking your solders and connections Engibeer. I can turn mine down until it stalls.
Nice job though. That perspex hopper gives me nasty flashbacks though. I see they do a metal one now that holds 5kg.

 

[Lyrebird_Cycles]

Most common problem with novices soldering is a dry joint. This can usually be resurrected by reflowing the joint.

If you don't have a solder sucker: just get the iron hot, wipe the tip against a wet sponge to get the old solder off, re-tin the tip lightly with fresh solder, hold it against the wire and board at the joint until the solder in the joint melts, pull the iron out of the joint but don't allow anything to move until the joint "sets up" again. Since solder is near eutectic, the phase transition is quite quick and the joint should be shiny when cooled.

If you do have a solder sucker: when the joint melts suck it out. Apply new flux to the joint if you can, then hold the iron against the wire and board at the joint and apply new solder to the joint NOT THE IRON. When the solder flows into the joint pull out but don't allow movement as above.

The essential point is that the iron heats the wire and the board and they melt the solder. If you melt the solder onto the iron and expect it to flow onto a cold joint it won't wet out properly, hence the term "dry joint". The iron needs to have enough solder on the surface for it to help transmit heat to the other parts but no more. With practice each joint should take about 5 seconds to do.

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

Solder joints

 

[zwitter]

Hi Camo6

Who does a metal hopper?
I too have the plastic hopper and while it works I fear I will drop it and it will not bounce.

Thanks
james


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Engibeer]

I'd be checking your solders and connections Engibeer. I can turn mine down until it stalls.
Nice job though. That perspex hopper gives me nasty flashbacks though. I see they do a metal one now that holds 5kg.

Are your flashbacks from having to fill the damn thing five times for a 50L batch?

I am curious to know whether the perspex hopper will support the weight of an upsidedown neverfail bottle full of grain!

 

[Camo6]

Are your flashbacks from having to fill the damn thing five times for a 50L batch?

I am curious to know whether the perspex hopper will support the weight of an upsidedown neverfail bottle full of grain!

I don't think I even put grain in it. I assembled it after a few beers and cracked a few bits. Cracked the ***** and went out and built one out of mdf.

@Zwitter, I think craftbrewer are selling them. There was a thread about them not long ago. Pretty sure it was for the mashmaster mini mill.

 

[Crusty]

Hi Camo6

Who does a metal hopper?
I too have the plastic hopper and while it works I fear I will drop it and it will not bounce.

Thanks
james


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Take a look here

 

[captaincleanoff]

Hi guys,

So I've wired up the Motion Dynamics motor with the "Sense Controller," which includes the on/off switch, speed controller - but also a red and a green off/on buttons

Are these red/green buttons required? Not really sure what they do It is my understanding that the Sense controller stops the mill when jammed, and is able to be run in reverse to unjam.

Are these buttons to stop/reverse the mill?

Progress so far: (without motor, or said buttons attached).

 

[fishingbrad]

Nice box. Where did you get it/ how much.

I could be wrong but believe 1 button to "Reset" 1 button to "Reverse" ?

 

[Engibeer]

I also like your box, same question as Brad!

Thanks to everyone for the soldering tips!

 

[captaincleanoff]

Thanks guys - the box is from "RS Components." $63. http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/general-purpose-enclosures/5173428/

Question about wiring the switches on the Sense controller. Does the red button go into input 1, and the green button into input 2?

What exactly do the green and red buttons do? I know they stop/reverse, but which one does what?

 

[captaincleanoff]

so I've wired up the controller as below (with the red button on top).

The green button turns it on/off.

Red button does nothing.

Speed control does nothing.

Any ideas?

 

[husky]

Has anyone had a custom shaft made for their mill? I have a monster mill 2 that I want to run off a small 3 phase motor and a worm drive. Specs are:

MM2 shaft - 1/2" OD with 3 x flats also has a 1/4" internal hex
Drive - 18mm shaft with 6mm key

Can anyone suggest where I may get the required parts to fit these together?

 

[zwitter]

Hi Husky

A couple of options. Choose one of the ebay ones with correct size on one side and then drill out other side to suit.
The shaft with 3 flats can be fitted to with a round fitting and a single grub screw.
Likewise the shaft with a key can also use a grub screw.
A coupler could be modified to take a key but it all comes down to cost.

I have mine with a 12mm to 1/2" coupler purchased straight off ebay for $12 delivered. It shows no sign of wear and will probably out live civilisation. I bought a second one but it will probably go on a second rig as I doubt it will ever be required as a spare.

I know lovejoy make a better quality coupler but costs $60 odd for the same thing. Lovejoy can sell each side separately so you can match shafts etc and even blanks so can have them made to fit your application all depends on the amount you want to spend. The precision you want is also up to you as a keyway can be made with a saw and file and time if you will be happy with the results.

3 phase for a grain mill! I have a 3 phase mill that weighs 1.6 tonne for metal work but it gets run from single phase and a convertor box.


Zwitter
James
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[husky]

Where do people order the lovejoy couplings from? Are there any on OZ or do they need to be ordered OS. I think these would suit me better so I can get the correct size on each hub(13mm one side and 18mm the other)

 

[luggy]

I got mine in aus, cant remember the supplier though

 

[Jaded and Bitter]

Where do people order the lovejoy couplings from? Are there any on OZ or do they need to be ordered OS. I think these would suit me better so I can get the correct size on each hub(13mm one side and 18mm the other)

You can get the EBay couplers with different shaft size either end, thats what I used.

3 phase is much more power than you need to run your mill (which I don't have a problem with) consider using a shear pin in your shaft in case you get yourself tangled up in it.