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Different wort aeration kits

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Mikeyr said:
Yep saw those, was wondering if they take the pressure direct from the tank or if you need to reduce first with a valve and it's on the low side. Doesn't look like it on Petes but he says "hooked up to regulator"??
That's what I was wondering as well. I don't imagine that chinsy flow meter would handle the pressure of the tank directly...

TidalPete said:
Flow meter hooked up to the regulator here. Rubber bung keeps the bugs out when not in use.
Any chance of getting a part list for this? Interested in the connection to the bottle and reg/flow meter in use!
 
Here's my TidalPete inspired setup. I already had the reg (ebay) before i got the flow meter (ebay) so i dont know if its necessary but is does make for a really really accurate setup (after a quick test). I haven't used it with the air stone on a stick and the flow meter setup so i havnt had a chance to try different time V flow options. Ill probably just stick with what is recommended in the Yeast Book (cant remeber). The $2.50 fire extinguisher holder was pretty useless but did make for a quick 5 min build. I need a better holder for my stone tube. Its what i had on hand.

Is it really necessary to disconnect the gas hose while not in use? Im not one that would know.

1487139171957.jpg
 
Mikeyr said:
Yep saw those, was wondering if they take the pressure direct from the tank or if you need to reduce first with a valve and it's on the low side. Doesn't look like it on Petes but he says "hooked up to regulator"??
No chance of the flow meter taking bottle pressure (nor the lines from the bottle to the flow meter either for that matter) the one in the link is rated to 0.1mPa (100kPa) or 1 bar, I have a hunch the bottle pressure will be just a bit more than that (actually just looked it's 1,100kPa).

Be safe first OK.
Mark
 
Hey guys - bit of a small update on the Bossweld reg for disposable bottles. Just bought mine after considering the 'risks' associated with non-adherence to known standards (and lack of standards in Australia for disposable bottle regs).

Seems the 'no oil' symbol has been put onto the face of the regulator. I wonder if they've had a enough calls through from anxious home brewers to warrant printing it just for us.

Edit: Also the reg says max 130Bar - the tradeflame bottle says PH - filling pressure 110 bar

IMAG17821.jpg
 
Just out of interest, Gaijin, where did you buy that Bossweld reg, and what was its "official" name/reference?

Just curious if you got it from the big green shed, if I choose to go down this path later.
 
Mikeyr said:
Yep saw those, was wondering if they take the pressure direct from the tank or if you need to reduce first with a valve and it's on the low side. Doesn't look like it on Petes but he says "hooked up to regulator"??
i got the O2 kit from Brewman & wasn't too happy with the beer line supplied as it was too stiff & unwieldy for my liking. I replaced the beer line with the same internal diameter silicon tubing from here --- http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Silicone-Tubing-Silicon-Vacuum-Hose-Air-Coolent-Water-Tube-Hose-Black-Red-Blue-/152148391255?var=&hash=item236cc03557:m:mG3TNptKyydMDmdG8gsuZjQ which fits nicely over the supplied hose barb that comes with the Brewman kit.
I got the stepless clamps for the silicon hose from one of the forum sponsors.

Got the flow meter from here -- http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/0-1-5LPM-1-5L-Flow-Meter-Flowmeter-Control-Valve-for-Oxygen-Air-Gas-Conectrator-/361865244213?hash=item5440d96e35:g:uQkAAOSwImRYaygJ & whilst not really necessary, makes for a more accurate dispersal of the O2 as nosco remarks (good work on your setup nosco! :) )..

Control knob on the flow meter is left wide open & the regulator control cracked just enough for the lead shot in the flow meter to rise to the 1.0 litre/min mark where it stays for the 1.0 min & 20 secs it takes me to aerate 23.0 litres of wort (stop watch of course. :D )

Alcoadam in Post 440 showed us how to avoid scratches to the fermenter by using a silicon pop-top bottle seal over the airstone which is a great idea.
Didn't have one handy but a regular O-ring works just fine.
 
I got it from Trade Tools. Product number 600044 - you can look it up on their website. SEQ stores just got new stock in today according to the helpful bloke at the Slacks Creek store. Seems they were out in most stores across Brissy up til now.

The only reg the BGS stocks which fits the 10mm thread of disposable bottles is the Tradeflame one and it doesn't have a flowgauge (as far as I know). Also, they only stock it in some stores, so you may have to phone around.
 
Here is a little extra information to help anyone target a certain oxygen content (ppm) in their wort. The charts are photographed from the book Yeast (Chris White and Jamil Zainasheff). Worth a read for gems like this.

I'll be targeting about 10ppm for my 3-7% alcohol beers.

IMAG1784.jpg


IMAG1785.jpg
 
Why not 14ppm graph looks good at that level ?

Also fermented at 24 c thats high or did it go down to 18 c ?
 
Because I'm cheap and will give Bunnings only as much of my dosh as I absolutely need to. the 9 ppm and 14 ppm lines converge at the same point.

What the chart doesn't show is the terminal gravity of the beers. The text above the chart states that "The 3 and 5 ppm beers did not attenuate as fully as the other samples, which attenuated a full degree Plato over the shaken sample". My guess is that the temperature has less of an impact (if any) on the terminal gravity - an 18C ferment would just shift the chart out maybe another 12 hours to where each sample would hit the same terminal gravity as if brewed at 24C. They would just have more esters. The experiment was done with WLP001 which is recommended 20C to 23C.
 
So, this is a bit embarrassing. I've just tried to use the tradeflame O2 and Bossgas reg in combo and the pin in the reg seems not to be depressing the non-return valve in the cannister. Anyone with this setup care to share any hints on getting flow?

It's on hand tight and I've turned the reg as far as it will go.
 
It looks like the pin in the Bossweld reg and the valve head in the Tradeflame bottle don't come anywhere near touching when everything is done up. If this combo worked before, the new manufacturing runs seem to have different specs as they're no longer compatible.

Will call around to a few Bunnings when I next get a chance to see if they have the Tradeflame brand regs (without a flow gauge). Will report back in case anyone else is looking to go down this route.
 
I know it's been said earlier but please do your research properly (everyone looking at O2 setups) - O2 is not a forgiving mistress in the case of accidents.
 
So for a self confessed tight arse trying to save money (something mistresses aren't very fond of), lets look at where you are upto.
O2 gas bottle $55, Reg $43, Airstone $23 Comes to over $120 Plus you will need some line hose clamps call it another $5 so you have spent $12, plus a couple of trips to various suppliers with more to come.

You still don't have a working system.

I suspect that the supplier has made that reg so it wont fit onto the oxygen bottle, for all the reasons listed in earlier posts, and a healthy dose of risk avoidance on their part. Looks like they aren't even stocking an O2 bottle (at least one compatible with that reg).
At a minimum you will be up for an adaptor, given you can find one that fits, I cant even find the adaptor Bunnings used to sell.

If you place much value on your time, and want a reasonably priced O2 system, just buy one from a reputable supplier, I doubt you will save much by doing a hell of a lot of running around, and at least you will get a working system with all the right parts, chosen for reliability and value for money when you look at the ongoing costs.
Mark
 
Tight arse - yep. Value my time - yep. Should've gone down the path that MHB recommended about 400 posts ago - yep.

Will I give up finding something to fit the tradeflame bottle? Not unless I blow my face off, which going from the advice from many on here, and a welding friend, is highly unlikely.

Thanks for the ongoing advice on here MHB and all - it's been much appreciated.
 
Ok, cant seem to find it, but who was selling the oxygenation stones with a stick attached? Or should where can i get a new length of 6mm SS tube from? Busted my old one in the move.
 
In relation to testing O2 levels in the wort, has anyone tried this:
https://www.sera.de/en/product/sera-test-de-oxigeno-o2/

It's an aquarium O2 test kit.
Costs ~$28 from Coburg Aquariums. It measures 2-8ppm as standard, so i'm guessing it'll possibly be indicative across 0-10ppm. No idea what the accuracy is, but i'd again guess ~±1ppm (?).

A flaw with it is the background colour of the wort would obviously affect it, as i believe you add 2 reagents to your sample and compare the colour to a chart. So a stout might be hard to measure!
However, if you used it to dial in your process on a few pale-coloured ales/lagers, it might give you a little more confidence in your method of oxygenation.
 
In your link the oxygen testing kits come up with an error for the page. Maybe just my software? Every other product displays though.
 
Thread is about adding actual oxygen to wort rather than just how to aerate.

It's well established that no amount of shaking or stirring can add the recommended level of oxygen.
 
manticle said:
Thread is about adding actual oxygen to wort rather than just how to aerate.

It's well established that no amount of shaking or stirring can add the recommended level of oxygen.
Ummmm..... Manticle you've chastised the bloke for posting about an aeration device in the thread titled "Different wort aeration kits". I think you might have thought the post was in the "Get into O2 guys, if your serious about good beer"

EDIT - I see the OP was about O2 kits, but Brad81 probably didn't go back the 24 pages and assumed a meaning in the title.
 
manticle said:
Thread is about adding actual oxygen to wort rather than just how to aerate.
Agreed.

manticle said:
It's well established that no amount of shaking or stirring can add the recommended level of oxygen.
I don't think it's that black and white. As a quick rule of thumb, I'd agree with that statement, but in reality things are a bit more complex. When you take into consideration the difference between lager and ale yeast and the solubility of O2 based on wort temperature, you can pull it off. Of course, dissolving pure O2 into the wort at the right time is the optimal solution - if you have the means.
 
Jack of all biers said:
Ummmm..... Manticle you've chastised the bloke for posting about an aeration device in the thread titled "Different wort aeration kits". I think you might have thought the post was in the "Get into O2 guys, if your serious about good beer"

EDIT - I see the OP was about O2 kits, but Brad81 probably didn't go back the 24 pages and assumed a meaning in the title.
Pretty minor chastising. More a reminder/suggestion.

@Peter - I've not read a single source that suggests paint stirrers or shaking can reach recommended levels of 10 ppm. 8 if you're lucky.
 
No Manticle is right and it is that black and white, you simply cant get the same concentration by pumping/stirring/shaking a 20% O2 & 80% nitrogen mix into the wort as you will get by using pure O2.

Even with an Airstone, there is also a point where the relatively insoluble N2 starts to push the O2 out of solution. One of the standard ways to de-oxygenate a solution is to purge with N2.
Mark
 
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