Dedicated Braumeister Guide, Problems & Solution Thread

[Boxcar]

If someone with a set of calipers or a fine ruler would do me a favor, would you please post the outside and inside diameters of the small section of tube on the top of the filter plate? 20 and 50L parts should be the same because they go over a center rod that's the same diameter on each.

I can't seem to locate those dimensions posted elsewhere. I know that piece of tubing is 33mm tall and the BM's center rod is 12mm with M12 threading on top and I even know the diameter, thickness and hole size of the filter plate itself.

 

[wide eyed and legless]

The ID of the boss is 12.5mm and the OD is 16mm, are you going to make one?

 

[Boxcar]

The ID of the boss is 12.5mm and the OD is 16mm, are you going to make one?

Thank you! I'm going to buy the original filter plates but I need to fit them on something else that I'm making. Looks like it will be perfect, worst case scenario I'll increase the ID by 0.5mm if needed.

 

[Midnight Brew]

OK so today I tried out the spring filter in the BM, after reading what Matt Mill had said about them (only good for filtering grain) slightly despondent but was pretty sure it would work with the pellets with a good whirlpooling and leaving until the temp got down to 80 degrees C.
Coiled and ready for action!
View attachment 106266
105 gram of pellets went into the boil without safety net.
View attachment 106267
Boil complete and proof will be in the pudding.
View attachment 106268
Hop sock hardly caught anything going into Jerry can.
View attachment 106269
Getting to the end.
View attachment 106270
The final drop straight into the glass, no hop sock and 2 litres of trub left in the BM with no tilting.
View attachment 106271

Have you tried this with flowers yet WEAL? This would come in handy using up some homegrown flowers.

 

[Boxcar]

Not only a pick up tube but a springer filter too.Time to get rid of the old hop sock.
View attachment 97576

Did you put together your own copper+silicone outlet port/spring adapter and use BAC's spring?

 

[wide eyed and legless]

I haven't MB, but Magic Pancake did post a video of using flowers in the Guten worked alright, the hop sock I put in the Jerry Can was a 400 micron and as you can see barely anything got through the spring.

 

[wide eyed and legless]

Did you put together your own copper+silicone outlet port/spring adapter and use BAC's spring?

I did but as it is an odd size dia (about 21mm) for the inside of the BM I used a piece of 20mm OD silicone hose with an inside dia of 1/2 inch, so used a piece of 1/2 inch copper tube and swaged the end so it gave a nice tight fit inside the BM.

 

[Boxcar]

I did but as it is an odd size dia (about 21mm) for the inside of the BM I used a piece of 20mm OD silicone hose with an inside dia of 1/2 inch, so used a piece of 1/2 inch copper tube and swaged the end so it gave a nice tight fit inside the BM.

Nice improvisation. What length did you cut the spring at and is it the smaller diameter one (~17mm) or the 3/4" version?

 

[wide eyed and legless]

The springs I have are 1,020mm in length, for the BM I cut at 0,930mm, but it might quite possible to use a copper elbow and a blank to go around the circumference and back underneath, though I don't suppose it will achieve much.
Your other problem Boxcar with the filter, why don't you just get some perforated plate and sit it on the top of the malt pipe you can either get a spare seal to go around the top rim or get some white split seal from Clarke Rubber.

 

[Boxcar]

I plan to make (have made) a custom malt pipe, taller than the original BM 50L, but matching it in diameter. It'll hopefully have an internal groove like the original, but sitting a bit lower. It'll be used with original BM silicone seal, original filter plates and BAC screens. The BAC spring filter setup should be close to stock, but I have to roll my own connection to the valve port as I'll be using a SSBrewTech 22 gallon kettle which has a different port height.

Can anyone guess on the amount of deflection the malt pipe deal provides when the pipe is pushed downward onto the bottom of the kettle? Close to 1mm at all?

From photos I've seen it's very difficult to see what the exact extrusion profile of the silicone seal is like - is it a simple "U" ? A "U" with thicker bottom, an "h?" Any info on this? And does anyone have a photo of the bottom edge of the malt pipe itself? I'm assuming it must have a rolled edge.

Another thing I'm trying to do is eliminate the bottom fixed attachment of the center rod, so the malt pipe will be sealed to the bottom via pressure from its lift lugs slotting under some ridges affixed to the inside of the kettle. The ability to do this well/easily supposes some deflection of the bottom silicone seal. I'd like to implement the ridges so that the lugs "lock" into place.

 

[wide eyed and legless]

I recently did a similar test with the Guten malt pipe, if by deflection you mean the displacement, it was a poofteenth of bugger all.
The seal is just a 'U' you can purchase them cheap enough from local home brew shops( or maybe BAC Brewing stocks them)
If you are going to lock the malt pipe in place the way you have suggested, then whatever you fit into your kettle to lock the lugs under e will have to be fairly significant. Surprising how much pressure those pumps can push that grain bed, I would be matching the lifting lugs on the malt pipe with the locking lugs on the kettle.
You should put some pics up of your build.

 

[malt junkie]

I plan to make (have made) a custom malt pipe, taller than the original BM 50L, but matching it in diameter. It'll hopefully have an internal groove like the original, but sitting a bit lower. It'll be used with original BM silicone seal, original filter plates and BAC screens. The BAC spring filter setup should be close to stock, but I have to roll my own connection to the valve port as I'll be using a SSBrewTech 22 gallon kettle which has a different port height.

Can anyone guess on the amount of deflection the malt pipe deal provides when the pipe is pushed downward onto the bottom of the kettle? Close to 1mm at all?

From photos I've seen it's very difficult to see what the exact extrusion profile of the silicone seal is like - is it a simple "U" ? A "U" with thicker bottom, an "h?" Any info on this? And does anyone have a photo of the bottom edge of the malt pipe itself? I'm assuming it must have a rolled edge.

Another thing I'm trying to do is eliminate the bottom fixed attachment of the center rod, so the malt pipe will be sealed to the bottom via pressure from its lift lugs slotting under some ridges affixed to the inside of the kettle. The ability to do this well/easily supposes some deflection of the bottom silicone seal. I'd like to implement the ridges so that the lugs "lock" into place.

I don't quite follow. If your doing top down flow path why do you need to seal the bottom of the malt pipe. I use the BM 50 seal, 350 dia 560 tall malt pipe I run this in BM configuration, however it won't seal with out down ward pressure either way. The seal is tear drop shaped cushioned with a slit for the malt pipe, you couldn't roll the edge of the malt pipe and make it work. I also have the 20L BM complete maltpipe setup (unused) but the seal is completely different.

 

[Boxcar]

If you are going to lock the malt pipe in place the way you have suggested, then whatever you fit into your kettle to lock the lugs under e will have to be fairly significant. Surprising how much pressure those pumps can push that grain bed, I would be matching the lifting lugs on the malt pipe with the locking lugs on the kettle.
You should put some pics up of your build.

I'm in design phase right now nailing down how I'll accomplish each of the feature goals. Basically the devil's work now, finalizing the smallest details as I fleshed out the "big picture" a little while ago. I'll leave myself wiggle room in case things have to change once building is under way. 12mm or 1/2" stainless round bar is what the lugs will likely be pushing against.

I don't quite follow. If your doing top down flow path

This will be bottom flow, precisely like the BM. Two bottom intakes, two bottom flow ports - a single more powerful pump. Basically it's going to be a BM with some upgrades to better suit what I want from this kind of system.

I use the BM 50 seal, 350 dia 560 tall malt pipe I run this in BM configuration, however it won't seal with out down ward pressure

I plan to have downward pressure, it just wont come from the center rod (I'll have one, and it'll be used for a number of features, just not securing the malt pipe) - downward force will come from the inside perimeter of the kettle, and be applied via the lift lugs on the malt pipe. This is why I asked about the ability of the gasket to deflect/deform - squish. I need to be able to squeeze the gasket a bit. The malt pipe will rotate into a locked position inside the kettle.

The seal is tear drop shaped cushioned with a slit for the malt pipe, you couldn't roll the edge of the malt pipe and make it work.

I asked because I'd think with enough downward force, like from the thread on the center rod, it might be possible for the edge of the pipe to cut through the gasket over time. I've found some decent alternatives for U gasket online for attractive prices, but thought just buying the original would save me the trouble of also having to source an adhesive to try and glue the ends of a length of gasket to form a circle - not to mention possibly having to try multiple adhesives if the first one isn't satisfactory.

 

[malt junkie]

It took a little over a year to cut through my first BM seal, but yeah can be an issue, and reminds me to order a spare soon, though I'm quite happy to replace them at that sort of rate. Be aware of pressure on the top plate, if you go through the brauclone threads you'll see 2mm plate bent out of shape, good crush and pump rests are key.

 

[wide eyed and legless]

If you have flared the bottom of the tube you may be able to use one of these (see link) depending on the size other than that Clarke Rubber will have a 'U' seal, but I get the impression there is no Clarke Rubber where you live.
https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?...eals.TRS0&_nkw=pressure+cooker+seals&_sacat=0

 

[Boxcar]

No tube has been made yet - I thought I'd get the gasket beforehand, just in case. I don't know of any retail-type places to get rubber/silicone gaskets here in Canada. I don't think I'd even be able to find a pressure cooker seal like the ones linked locally, though I did find a 14" model on AliExpress. Based on the Boilcoil heater I'd like to use, my malt pipe will need to be only as wide as the stock one, about 346/350mm (I've seen both numbers listed so far).

 

[malt junkie]

Note Matho's clone and many others just used silicone brewing hose slit down one side, needing that bit of compression you'd probably go the extra thick hose.

 

[wide eyed and legless]

When you are ready for a seal let me know along with the length, I will get you some, if you keep the bottom of the tube straight you won't need the adhesive, just cut it at a 45 degree angle and it will hold its position, mine holds on the lip but I won't be needing that now I have the spring filter.
How are you going to keep the top filters in position?

 

[Boxcar]

When you are ready for a seal let me know along with the length, I will get you some, if you keep the bottom of the tube straight you won't need the adhesive, just cut it at a 45 degree angle and it will hold its position, mine holds on the lip but I won't be needing that now I have the spring filter.
How are you going to keep the top filters in position?

Thanks.

The top will take a sort of bar with a hole in the middle that fits over the center rod and will lock to the lift lugs of the malt pipe. The idea here is again, just drop it on, and a small turn to lock. When the malt pipe itself is unlocked from the kettle, this top bar (it'll actually likely be an X) stay in place. The center rod can then be used to lift the entire pipe out of the kettle, bringing the bottom filter plate up with it (similar concept to Brew-Boss' COFI lift).

 

[wide eyed and legless]

Put down another brew today, hop pellets straight in without safety net, results even better that the last time, was thinking of silver soldering the joints to syphon right down to the bottom of the BM. No need, liquor drained to the top of the spring filter, whoever thought of using a spring as a filter is now level pegging with the guy who thought of the cable tie as the most simple and useful idea.