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Dedicated Braumeister Guide, Problems & Solution Thread

Discussion in 'Gear and Equipment' started by idzy, 29/12/13.

 

  1. idzy

    Well-Known Member

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    Posted 29/12/13
    Based on recent discussion, I thought it would be worth getting the ball rolling on a thread dedicated to discussing the Braumeister. Since brewing is similar for 20l and 50l, this thread can be for both versions and can be used to discuss the various nuances associated with Braumeister brewing kit.

    (borrowed from Chappo, thanks)
    I suggest:

    • To stay on topic where reasonable (a little friendly banter is ok)
    • Purely on procedures, techniques, brewing techniques, equipment, technology and set ups.
    • Talk on recipes and results from Braumeister systems
    • Photo's, drawings, scribbles of gear and set up is a must.
    • No trolling lets keep it straight, debate well, deal with facts and remain focused. Difference of opinion is more than acceptable. Calling someone out for a shooting and pissing contest isn't.
    • Advanced brewing techniques using Braumeister.
    • Beginner advice on setting Braumeister systems up.
    • The thread will be actively Moderated to keep it on topic.
    Now this isn't an elitist thread ok. So please don't start banging that one out guys. It is however for those in the Braumeister world of brewing. We don't bash on much about our systems etc as mentioned above. But it will be a place where those doing Braumeister can advance and share their knowledge.


    Cheers

    Idzy
     
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  2. Moad

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    Posted 30/12/13
    I'll get things started...

    I am one brew in on my 20L BM, very impressed with the quality of the unit and the ease of use!

    My first brew I wanted to pump 21L in to the fermenter but pulled up short by 2L (4.5KG, 1.043 target OG). I started the mash with 25 litres, sparged after the mash to bring it up to 27L for a 90 minute boil.

    Not sure if my planned boil off value was wrong or if the 27L should have been enough for a 60 minute (but not 90) boil but I ended up with about 22.5 after cooling and lost the rest to trub. I got 19L at 1.047 so I think it was simply more boil off than I anticipated.

    What volume does everyone usually mash in with? What sort of boil off should I expect (I understand this will vary depending on location). I recorded as much info as I thought was necessary but I still don't think I know how to really dial my volumes/targets in yet. Any advice on what/when to measure? Should I be losing this much to trub?

    Using BeerSmith if that helps...

    Moad.
     
  3. wide eyed and legless

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    Posted 30/12/13
    Is this thread replacing the Tips & Tricks thread ?
     
  4. dicko

    Boston Bay Brewery

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    Posted 30/12/13
    Until there is a decision whether to create a sub forum or not we will leave it here, athough we may consider moving or merging it to the "Tips and Tricks" topic.

    Moad, here is the link to the other topic which in post 416 will give you the figures for my 20l BM

    It sounds as though you got it close but underestimated your boil off.
    As you will see from the beersmith figures mine boils off around 3.5 litres for 60 mins

    I mash in with 25 litres and sparge the rest of the volume of water

    http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/57118-braumeister-tips-tricks/page-21
     
  5. Moad

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    Posted 30/12/13
    I think I must have forgotten to tick the box for "hourly" boil off volume so had calculated 3.5 over the 90 minutes.

    Would have been fairly close thanks mate I'll grab it.

    I did start to read through that thread but it is a beast!
     
  6. Crusty

    The Electric Brewery

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    Posted 30/12/13
    I'm a little bit in the dark as well with my new 50lt Braumeister.
    Using BeerSmith, I'm looking @80% efficiency for a 40lt batch ( 2 x 20lt cubes ) 53lt mash in, 11 odd litres of sparge, 90min boil, 6.2lt boil off ( 11.1% ) 5lt loss to trub & chiller & 2lt loss to fermenter. Not sure how close this will be so anyone with a 50lt Brau like to chime in, that would be really helpful.
    Boiling with the thermo jacket as well.
     
  7. Crusty

    The Electric Brewery

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    Posted 30/12/13
    Actually, I'll mash in with 55lt & do a 9lt ish sparge.
     
  8. stakka82

    Hoptimus Prime

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    Posted 31/12/13
    I usually try to get 2 full 20 litre cubes and a 10 litre out of a medium OG beer (1045-1055). I mash in with around 55 litres, rinse with 10 litres slowly, and let drain for about 20 mins after the last litre of rinse. I'll then chuck the last couple of litres left in my hot water urn into the brau for the start of the boil.

    Doing this I get about 23 litres in each full size cube, but often won't quite be able to fill the 10 litre cube. I top up the last couple of litres with boiling water which gives me a mid/three quater strength 'starter' cube which is great for liquid yeasts. When that cube ferments out I split the cake and dump the two cubes on each half. This method is pretty good for lagers cause if you use a smackpack that's less than a month old you're correctly pitching on the small cube, then you're effectively giving a 5 litre starter to each of your 1045-55 full strength/volume cubes.

    I remember hearing anecdotes of extended mashouts giving vastly improved efficiencies - yesterday I was out while the mash finished and it probably held mashout for about an hour before I could pull the pipe. Using the method above I will usually get 80-84% efficiency. Yesterday hit a whopping 93%!!!!

    The result is great if I can replcate it consistently... as a once off it was a bit of a pain in the ass cause I wanted a session lager, but now I have a 1055 OG with a fairly chewy grist and only 27 IBU...

    Cheers

    Edit: I should clarify that when I say I mash in with 55 litres, that's by the tie rod marking which is actually nearer to 60 litres.
     
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  9. Moad

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    Posted 2/1/14
    So I think my fermenter expanded and threw me off. It ended up perfect, corny full = success.

    27 litres for 60 minute boil in the 20L BM will give you final volume after all losses of 20L ess
     
  10. Dan Pratt

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    Posted 3/1/14
    I add 28 litres to my 20lt bm and adjust the water at 20c. Remove 3litres and add malt pipe and malt plus screens. Start pump and add back the 3 litres, let it run for 20mins and then adjust pH accordingly. This reducing the Sparge volume, generally have 32lt after sparge and boil for 90mins. 3.5 lts trub, 21 into fv.
     
  11. Moad

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    Posted 4/1/14
    You lose 7.5 during a 90 minute boil?

    I'll take some more accurate measurements for trub etc next brew
     
  12. Dan Pratt

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    Posted 4/1/14
    Sorry that should have been 30lts preboil volume.
     
  13. Moad

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    Posted 5/1/14
    Yeah that makes sense, I started with 28 and added a litre when I realised I was going to be short and had 20 into FV.

    I think I'll do the same brew again and see if they are identical
     
  14. Ckilner

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    Posted 27/1/14
     
  15. Ckilner

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    Posted 27/1/14
    Apologies, but changing the thread a little. I have a 20l Braumeister and have been doing a brew about every two or three weeks since last June when I bought it. It's certainly a great bit of kit and I'm getting some really good results. The problem I've found is the outlet tap blocks with hops. I use a diaphragm pump to move the beer from the Braumeister via an oxygenator into my fermenter. I've modified the Braumeister by clipping a small square of stainless steel mesh over the outlet on the inside and this has helped a lot at keeping the hops out of the pipe but some brews seems to have more clag than others and occasionally it still blocks. I thought about making a false bottom for the Braumeister (a bit like the metal plates and filters that go in the malt pipe) which would sit above the level of the outlet. When the malt pipe comes out I'd drop the false bottom in, sliding it over the centre pin.
    Does anyone else have this trouble and have a workaround?
     
  16. doon

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    Posted 27/1/14
    Put a ball valve on there instead of tap that comes with it won't block then. Just need a reduced piece between bm hole and ball valve
     
  17. Batz

    Batz Brewery...Hand crafted beers from the 'Batcav

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    Posted 27/1/14
    A lot of BM owners have changed the valve, here's mine.

    1 001.JPG
     
  18. Black n Tan

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    Posted 27/1/14
    The hops should settle to the bottom after whirlpooling/settling. Do you whirlpool or allow the trub to settle for 30 minutes or so before you rack to your fermenter? Are you using whole hop flowers or pellets?
     
  19. Ckilner

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    Posted 28/1/14
    I have tried whirlpooling but I put my immersion cooler in a few minutes before the end of the boil so that it get sanitised. I have tried removing it and then whirlpooling but doesn't seem to have much effect. I start the cool immediately after the boil so no settling time - perhaps that's where I'm going wrong. I have used whole hop flowers up until today's brew where I used pellets for bittering. I think the pellets and some very flakey dried hops caused all the blockages.
     
  20. Ckilner

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    Posted 28/1/14
    Just found this on a website for sale. Much the same principle as my filter but a bit more industrial.

    [​IMG]
     
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