A Different Stc1000 Question

[bignath]

you have your power 'in" going to 5 and 7.

I'm 100% sure it is supposed to go to 6 and 8.

5 and 7 as far as i know, are supposed to power your outlets (as per Nick's diagram).

Have had another read of my post you responded to.

I don't think it's arrogant at all.
I've even put a caveat in there that indicates I could in fact be incorrect...

Dunno what's so arrogant about that.

 

[Diesel80]

Just my opinion, but I'd rather have all cables (and housing) connected to the main earth. Definitely in no way meant to be taken as a personal attack on anyone...

<3A still does a whoooole lotta damage.

Sponge,

i have all my earth wires joined at the terminal block in my installation. How do i earth a plastic case?
I assume the fact that all earth wires are joined would at least offer me some kind of protection if the worst should happen?

Cheers,
D80

 

[Yob]

Ive had another read as well and would like to see the diagram on the back of your STC, it may be different than mine...

but I doubt it.. at the end of the day it's a switch, will (possibly) work either way, just not as intended (I guess)..

I also stand by the fact those connectors do not look to be 10A ones..

I could be wrong there also..

Harden up a bit soldier, if you know you are correct, back it up with evidence, I have pointed out that to my eye it looks incorrect, and certainly todays models are not wired like that, refer Nicks linked image.

Shit, at the end of the day it's your and your familys safety we are trying to look out for

 

[gravey]

If you connect all your earths (power in and power out) you dont need the fuse, that's what I was getting at, just in case that wasnt clear.

Yob - They are 15A (possibly higher), so rated higher than necessary - I work in a foundary, pretty sure the sparkies here would not be using anything but. All of the gear was given to me by our maintenance department and the wiring checked by a sparky and double checked by another sparky when I plugged my first one in as I was a bit nervous, despite having reasonable knowledge of circuits

So, thinking about the apparent 'millions of ways' these things could be wired up I have thought of 'one' other way that would work, but would be quite dangerous and certainly not recommended.

I think what Nath may be referring to as being a dangerous method of wiring an STC-1000 up, is to have the neutral connected to pins 6 & 8 - bad news as you have current still going to your heating/cooling device, it just cant return, circuit is incomplete fridge turns off. When the switch on pins 6/8 turn off, the circuit will work as expected, as there is no return of current via the neutral but you still have current going to your fridge.

The method I have used is perfectly acceptable, it really doesnt matter if power in or power out is doing the switching. Switching on the neutral is certainly not a method any sparky would endorse though. Switching on the live wire, whichever way you go, should not pose any problem as far as I can see.

 

[dammag]

I have one of those grey terminal strips in front of me at the moment and mine is 15A 500V so plenty "big" enough.

 

[QldKev]

okay i am a complete noob to all of this, but finally got my first STC1000 in the mail today on the suggestions of a few on here.... but, how the hell do you wire it up.... i was told there would be instructions on how to wire it, but no.....

can anyone suggest any handy websites that give a step by step process ??

Cheers

BJ

Www.aussiehomebrewer.com.au

:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[Yob]

it really doesnt matter if power in or power out is doing the switching. Switching on the neutral is certainly not a method any sparky would endorse thoughi

wouldnt the STC innards for the switch for heating and cooling both be constantly powered but just not switched on?

Cant be ideal if that is the case

 

[squirt in the turns]

wouldnt the STC innards for the switch for heating and cooling both be constantly powered but just not switched on?

Cant be ideal if that is the case

I'd agree with gravey and say it doesn't matter. There are 2 sets of relay contacts (5/6 and 7/8). They function exactly the way a single-pole single-throw switch on the live wire would: breaking the circuit when open and completing it when closed. Within the pair it doesn't make any difference which, out the 2 contacts, is "in" (connected to the mains) or "out" (connected to the appliance).

Not sure exactly what you're getting at, Yob, but without the "innards" being powered on, nothing would work.

If the concern is that the appliance/load is not entirely isolated (i.e. that it is permanently connected to the neutral), then the only way to solve that is to add another relay (or 2 if both the heating and cooling circuits are used) to switch the neutral as well. This would require taking the STC apart (bad idea) to solder another relay on. In any event, that'd be overkill if the thing is safely wired and properly earthed.

 

[bignath]

I think what Nath may be referring to as being a dangerous method of wiring an STC-1000 up, is to have the neutral connected to pins 6 & 8 -

No. That's not what i was getting at.

 

[barls]

Someone needs to just sell pre-wired STC1000s for $60 locally so that noobs don't have to wire these up themselves.

way too much paper work required to make it safe and legal.
saying that you supply me with the parts and ill wire it and tag it safe for a nominal fee using the technical skills and qualification i have. 100% legal then.

 

[Black Devil Dog]

Is there a qualified electrician in the house?

 

[booargy]

IT DOES MATTER WHICH CABLE YOU SWITCH.
There is a piece of wire in switch boards called the MEN link this connects the neutral to earth. So if the active is connected and an earth fault occurs the circuit becomes live.
A fuse/circuit breaker is designed to protect the wiring in case of short circuit.
An RCD (residual current device) limits the current through the earth to 30-50mA depending on type. 50mA will kill you.

 

[np1962]

As long as you are switching the Active it makes no difference whether you go in 5 & 7 and out 6 & 8 or in 6 & 8 and out 5 & 7.
Take this from someone who retails these units an who trained as an electronics technician.
As for supplying the units wired and assembled.
As Barls said, it would take many hundreds of units to cover the cost of certification.
Cheers
Nige

P.S. Only have 4 more available until mid January.

 

[Yob]

P.S. Only have 4 more available until mid January.

:lol:

thanks for clearing that up, think I will still wire mine as per the actual diagram on the unit though

 

[dammag]

Maybe it's OK to wire your own unit up but at least test the thing properly.

At the least make sure active, neutral and earth are in the correct position on your outlet and preferably use an RCD tester to make sure your breaker trips in the event of a problem.

As for those lunchbox enclosures, make sure when you knock them off the top of your fridge and go to catch them you don't catch the wrong bit.

As for the which is in, which is out relay contact question, it matters more in DC switching and of course this is AC so I wouldn't worry.

 

[np1962]

:lol:

thanks for clearing that up, think I will still wire mine as per the actual diagram on the unit though

Yob, you keep going on about the diagram on the unit, looking at the unit, a brand new one, an older one and then the instructions that come with the units I can't see anywhere that it states which terminals should be in or out.
If you have a different diagram maybe you would care to post it?
I've done my time working in electrical/electronics and I'm pretty handy at reading diagrams. I think I can find my way around something as simple as this.
Cheers
Nige

 

[jaypes]

Just my opinion, but I'd rather have all cables (and housing) connected to the main earth. Definitely in no way meant to be taken as a personal attack on anyone...

<3A still does a whoooole lotta damage.

Yep, takes less than 1A to kill you

 

[Yob]

My assumption is based on the side of the switch, if the power is on the open side (on the right) then no power can get to the unit until it closes, by no means an expert on electronics but to my thoughts it was a safety way to wire it, still does in my mind,

Happy to be corrected though I think I would, if wiring up another, wire it as I have been with power in on the right.

Cheers

 

[Nick JD]

My assumption is based on the side of the switch, if the power is on the open side (on the right) then no power can get to the unit until it closes, by no means an expert on electronics but to my thoughts it was a safety way to wire it, still does in my mind,

Happy to be corrected though I think I would, if wiring up another, wire it as I have been with power in on the right.

Cheers

WTF?

 

[Yob]

As per the image you posted nick, in on the 6,8 out 5,7.