A Different Stc1000 Question

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
For those who might be confused about the wiring diagram, this is what it translates to:


It really is a piece of piss
Is the use of orange wire just to confuse things for the poor newbies??? :)
 
but how do you know the person can't follow what is a really simple schematic.

Two reasons

1) Because there is simple schematic on top of the STC that tells you what to connect to what.
2) The search function is much eaiser (and safer) than reading a simple schematic, and he managed to fail at that. (Even though he obviously searched because he found this thread :huh: )



A sticky would be good though given the amount of times this is asked - though if it were sticked the mods should really remove all the really bad advice (eg. Lunchboxes) from it.
 
A sticky would be good though given the amount of times this is asked - though if it were sticked the mods should really remove all the really bad advice (eg. Lunchboxes) from it.

Agreed.
 
... and delete the other threads that have 2 lines in them before they were redirected to the thread with the info in..

there's a whole bunch of the bloody things now. <_<
 
Someone needs to do The Definitive STC1000 Thread and have it locked and stickied.
 
Someone needs to just sell pre-wired STC1000s for $60 locally so that noobs don't have to wire these up themselves.
 
you have your power 'in" going to 5 and 7.

I'm 100% sure it is supposed to go to 6 and 8.

5 and 7 as far as i know, are supposed to power your outlets (as per Nick's diagram).

I'm 100% sure there's more than one way to skin a cat. So who's 100% sureness is correct? Not yours. I have wired this up as per the diagram on the back of the STC-100. I have wired up 2 others the same way. This one has been going strong for almost 2 years now.

Here's another dumbed down diagram that does it the same way

wiring-1.gif


And another...

stc1000.png


NFW thats right... and some seriously oversized cable being used :blink:

*ED: what are those connectors rated at? they dont look like they are 10A... mate, delete that post.

Oversized cabling huh....yeah that's a huge concern. It's what I had reels and reels of lying around at work. Its perfectly fine for 240v, 10A. Perhaps you should delete your post, or perhaps just not open your mouth on topics you know nothing about?

As for power outlets that are rated lower than 10A - I dont think they even exist mate? The sockets used are simply designed to fit flush in the jiffy box and will cope with 10A just fine, like this - http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PS4094

Is the use of orange wire just to confuse things for the poor newbies??? :)


Red is the live/hot side of the circuit, the diagram above explains that a bit better. Blue is the neutral side of the circuit. The short answer though is Blue and Red cable is all I had lying around at work. I hacked up a PC power cable for the power outlets, just so they were all bunched together. I also used a PC power cable for Power In.
 
I'd be more worried about comments such as "I'm 100% sure it is supposed to go to 6 and 8" as opposed to getting upset about lunch boxes? Plenty of guys who know what they're doing using a lunch box compared to those who just blindly followed a diagram somewhere using a metal, lockable box.

It simply depends if you like your STC-1000 to cut the power going in vs going out. It makes no difference at all to how the unit functions. Which is why both of these diagrams are perfectly acceptable, despite the different uses of 5/6, 7/8.

6/8 in, 5/7 out
5/7 in, 6/8 out

Also very hard to ever have locally supplied STC-1000's sold for $60, given the legalities around selling 240v electrical wiring without certificates of electrical safety.
 
NFW thats right... and some seriously oversized cable being used :blink:

*ED: what are those connectors rated at? they dont look like they are 10A... mate, delete that post.
Are you taking the piss Yob? That's one of the better hookups i've seen for an STC-1000. And if by connectors you mean the terminal blocks, they look like the type I use, rated WAY above 10A. You can get tiny little crap ones for $1 on eBay that are rated for 10A.

If you are serious, can you explain what you think is wrong in that pic?
 
I'd be more worried about comments such as "I'm 100% sure it is supposed to go to 6 and 8" as opposed to getting upset about lunch boxes? Plenty of guys who know what they're doing using a lunch box compared to those who just blindly followed a diagram somewhere using a metal, lockable box.

It simply depends if you like your STC-1000 to cut the power going in vs going out. It makes no difference at all to how the unit functions. Which is why both of these diagrams are perfectly acceptable, despite the different uses of 5/6, 7/8.

6/8 in, 5/7 out
5/7 in, 6/8 out

Also very hard to ever have locally supplied STC-1000's sold for $60, given the legalities around selling 240v electrical wiring without certificates of electrical safety.

But apparently there is "No ******* Way" its right? Big Nath and Yob are 100% sure on that!

Anyway - here's some stupidly bad pictures of the finished product that cant possibly work or be correct:

400140_10150589343945867_1952837633_n.jpg


396324_10150589344085867_1121896771_n.jpg


Note to self - when filing out the hole for the STC-100, put some cardboard down.....got a bit scratched up on the bench :(
 
But apparently there is "No ******* Way" its right? Big Nath and Yob are 100% sure on that!

Anyway - here's some stupidly bad pictures of the finished product that cant possibly work or be correct:

Note to self - when filing out the hole for the STC-100, put some cardboard down.....got a bit scratched up on the bench :(
Nice, where did you score those low profile power points?

:icon_offtopic: and i'm just as interested in the wine collection in the background!
 
I didnt go through Jaycar, too expensive. I went through a smaller local supplier in Adelaide, was about half the cost.

Wine list is starting to look good. I have about 80 odd bottles that are worth cellaring, though not having ideal cellaring conditions I can only really hold them for half of their potential.......wine is about drinking anyway, so not that keen to hold on to something for 20 years. I have tried a Darenberg Dead Arm Shiraz from 1996 that is drinking damned well now though, so it would be nice to get a cellar one day.
 
I'm 100% sure there's more than one way to skin a cat. So who's 100% sureness is correct? Not yours. I have wired this up as per the diagram on the back of the STC-100. I have wired up 2 others the same way. This one has been going strong for almost 2 years now.

I also agree there's more than one way to skin a cat. I also have three of these wired up going strong for several years too.
What you aren't aware of is that before you joined this forum, there have been a million different ways people have come up with to wire these things up. Apparently they all work.

The diagram you originally posted has been done to death, and in the earlier days of these controllers, was widely considered as not being the best option, for reasons that i can't recall now.....im not an electrician.
What i will say though, is the other option i presented, as per Nick's diagram, has often been posted here, and qualified by many electricians/brewers as being technically correct.

The company(ies) that make the STC controllers may have changed the design over the years too. Something you may not have considered.

So it now seems that there are other ways of doing it with regard to power going in and out. Im fine with that. I see your's works. If you look through my posts you'll see mine works too.

I'd be more worried about comments such as "I'm 100% sure it is supposed to go to 6 and 8" as opposed to getting upset about lunch boxes?

Who said i was upset at using lunch boxes?
I just prefer to use a more secure box with anything housing an appliance running off 240V.
Besides, there's plenty of "bad advice" when it comes to these things that would have to be cleaned up - how do you know i was "agreeing" with the lunchbox suggestion FFS.

But apparently there is "No ******* Way" its right? Big Nath and Yob are 100% sure on that!

Whoah....Climb down off your big fucken horse cowboy!
**** me, what an over reaction....
I never said your controller wouldn't work.
I pointed out, that the diagram you presented was considered by many, more experienced brewers than me who have been here longer than me, to be "not the best way to go".

I know your diagram works. I've seen plenty of previous posts showing your diagram works over the years here. I've also seen it spark debate as to if it's the best way or not, with a LOT of weighted discussion suggesting it was not - from a technical/safety aspect.

Doesn't mean it won't work.

If it works for you, and it doesn't matter which way these things are wired up then all good and dandy....but stop acting like a spoilt little ****.

Take your ******** attitude somewhere else.

It's debate like this that only strengthens the need for a dedicated thread/sticky for wiring these up, that can be locked by the mods/admin after any diagram(s) - assuming both ways are safe, have been verified as being electrically sound.
 
Jump in the ice bath boys.

If someone is to be called out on something being incorrect or someone is stating something as being correct it would help if those doing so can do from a qualified position.

Not just based on an opinion or here-say.

As a novice who is trying learn more it is unhelpful to have these situations occur because in the end no one knows what is correct.
 
Jump in the ice bath boys.

If someone is to be called out on something being incorrect or someone is stating something as being correct it would help if those doing so can do from a qualified position.

Not just based on an opinion or here-say.

As a novice who is trying learn more it is unhelpful to have these situations occur because in the end no one knows what is correct.

I agree BDD. Which is why I mentioned that the diagram I have been informed of as correct, has been by qualified people.
 
The "No ******* Way" were actually yobs words...you were simply 100% certain that my method was incorrect. A bit more polite, granted, but still fairly arrogant, hence the response.

If there's a reason why it shouldnt be wired up this way, then by all means show me the info. I purchased another STC just a couple of months ago and the diagram is exactly the same. Pins 6 and 8 still operate as the switch. I have had my wiring checked by a couple of electricians the first time I made one, neither mentioned any issues. An electrician at my work checked it and I had a sparky over fixing my aircon just as I was about to plug it in for the first time and he also said it was fine.
 
Serious question here.

Whats the go with the fuse shown above?

If these things switch up to 10A under what situation will the 3A fuse fail? Is it there as a safety mechanism for the device or for the user?

Cheers,
D80
 
Serious question here.

Whats the go with the fuse shown above?

If these things switch up to 10A under what situation will the 3A fuse fail? Is it there as a safety mechanism for the device or for the user?

Cheers,
D80

Its not necessary if you have connected all of your earths together. US only have 2-pin sockets, no earth, hence the extra protection in the wiring diagram.
 
Its not necessary if you have connected all of your earths together. US only have 2-pin sockets, no earth, hence the extra protection in the wiring diagram.

Just my opinion, but I'd rather have all cables (and housing) connected to the main earth. Definitely in no way meant to be taken as a personal attack on anyone...

<3A still does a whoooole lotta damage.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top