Wort Chilling

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plate chillers pass through break material with no problem, and using a hop sock prevents hop debris from causing cloggage.


Hey phoneyhuh,

Ever opened up a plate chiller after a year of use? Its full of particles/lumps/green with and without a "hop sock"
gf
 
My Willow no chill cubes haven't changed colour at all, no staining anywhere. I no chill and ferment in them. I agree with Bum - the wort goes in at about 80C and I chuck mine in the backyard pool - usually at pitching temp in a couple of hours .... no drama's
Cheers
BBB
 
You seem to be swearing so calm down fella.
Swearing is the rule rather than the exception. If I start trying to meter my responses that's usually a better indicator that I'm redlining.

Just because you can "bend the rules" doesn't mean you are right.
Just because you declare something a rule doesn't mean it is. Surely no-chilling has been around long enough now and enough beer has certainly been drunk for some sort of ill-effect to have manifest by now - what do you propose this is? You know, apart from some feeling that plastic must be bad for you?

As for your claim about the staining of cubes, yeah, mine goes dark sometimes - even darker with black beers. Funny that. Always goes away with a napisan soak - perhaps napisan rejuvenates distorted plasticisers? It's a ******* miracle! FSM be praised!

[EDIT: spooling]
 
I agree with Bum - the wort goes in at about 80C and I chuck mine in the backyard pool - usually at pitching temp in a couple of hours .... no drama's
Only pointing this out because my name is mentioned in the same sentence - I do not personally recommend the slow-ish chilling of a cube. This undoes one of the benefits of no-chilling, for my money. Pretty sure you need the extended periods of higher heat for the method to work as designed.
 
:icon_offtopic: Bum which part of slowish no chill do you think it 'undoes' - Taste? Hygiene? any info appreciated.
To add insult to injury I just went to the beer room at home to find a LCBA I brewed last weekend in a cube that was about to explode .... a tragedy. Was planning on pitching tomorrow ....
Cheers
BBB
 
The theory of no chill is that the wort spends a good amount of time in a sealed, oxygen depleted space at temperatures above those favoured by microbial growth. This increases the sanitary aspect.

If you work against this by cooling the cube quickly rather than naturally you theoretically run the risk of getting the wort to the point at which it is vulnerable to attack from bacteria etc before the heat packing does its thing.

The point of no-chill to me is that it is 'no-chill'. If you want to speed up the process then chill - otherwise wait till it cools itself.

Halfway is halfarsed.
 
Thanks Manticle
I think I may now no chill (when it will stand for days/weeks before pitching) and keep the halfarsed slow chill when I need to pitch the same day.
Thanks for clearing that up for me.
Cheers
BBB
 
I pitch the next day with almost every brew. Overnight gets the beer to where you want.
 
At the risk of getting this back on topic and off no-chilling - I agree with Manticle about the dangers of chilling just to 50C and I take that to be his point about half chilling being half arsed.
 
Jimi
I doesnt chill to 50C - that would be pointless I agree. The halfarsed slow chill in the pool method gets it from 80C to 18C in a couple of hours. Very useful if you want to pitch the same day and have no access to wort/plate chillers.
Cheers
BBB
 
Felten,

I agree HDPE can sustain those temps. Ever notice HDPE with hot wort becomes stained? Its most probably because of a melting of the plastic and an exchange of chemical entities (plasticisers)

Yes, I know....I/my wife/partner/friend microwaves in plastic.

I ask , is it usual for this person to hold acidic sugar solutions for extended times (12 hr+) at these temps?

gf

Apparently HDPE's melting point is 130c, my no-chilling cube isn't stained at all, I don't know anyone that microwaves their wort for 12+ hours.

http://www.dynalabcorp.com/technical_info_...olyethylene.asp

Maybe you should send your queries to Mr. Plastic, I hear he has a wealth of technical, practical and even some hysterical plastic advice.
 
What materials are used in its construction?

Is the material food safe and beer safe?
Does the wort run through it or is it submersed in the wort?

Regards

Graeme

i think the liquid (oil) passes through the coil and the external fins dissipate the heat by having airflowing through it

i dont think it would cool the liquid very well, plus you'd need a fan
 
Jimi
I doesnt chill to 50C - that would be pointless I agree. The halfarsed slow chill in the pool method gets it from 80C to 18C in a couple of hours. Very useful if you want to pitch the same day and have no access to wort/plate chillers.
Cheers
BBB

BBB
I think Manticle was referring to Jacob's plan to chill halfway (50C) as being halfarsed. I was trying to move the topic back to what I thought the original (Jacobs) post was questioning, not the never die no-chill debate.
Theres been plenty suggesting how to do it (get it down to 50C) but at present only Manticle and myself have cautioned against it.
 
I was thinking of using it as an immersion chiller (just like the copper pipe) so i'd run cold water through the cooler and dunk it into the beer.
 
I was thinking of using it as an immersion chiller (just like the copper pipe) so i'd run cold water through the cooler and dunk it into the beer.


that should work,

but check that the material its made of is food safe

also you will need to keep moving it around whilst cooling, or move the wort around
 
Hey phoneyhuh,

Ever opened up a plate chiller after a year of use? Its full of particles/lumps/green with and without a "hop sock"
gf

It's impossible to open mine up, but I confidently say that a good soak of PBW through the thing after each use cleans it good & proper.
 
Does anyone have the no chill thread link? Searched to no avail.
 
gone-fishing, do you still have concerns about the polyester used in BIAB bags as you used to post a couple of years ago?
 
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