Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Yes the K-lok fitting has no teeth. That is how that fitting is designed.

Does the k-lok fitting work without the spring? It's extremly rare to have that particular combination. Normally we only sell the K-lok fittings to commercial venues who generally want to free pour things like full jugs of beer without needing to hold onto the tap. I have not seen a the combination of tap spring and k-lok fitting before so it's possible you have revealed a new problem or particular combination that is not compatible.
Yes works without the spring and using the internal washer the shank collar tightens up to not leak

I guess I could try drill out the KLOC shank on the tap for the spring to fit better (it does look tapered, any idea what the taper is? or on the Ball lock MFL tap adapters?)

But yes I would say it may not be compatible which is annoying, I have a toddler so the reason for the KLOC is to a. easy removal for cleaning and b. removal so the toddler doesn't try play with them.

The spring return was extra security that they wouldn't be left open if the toddler did grab them etc or if I have guests who don't shut them fully
 
Yes works without the spring and using the internal washer the shank collar tightens up to not leak

I guess I could try drill out the KLOC shank on the tap for the spring to fit better (it does look tapered, any idea what the taper is? or on the Ball lock MFL tap adapters?)

But yes I would say it may not be compatible which is annoying, I have a toddler so the reason for the KLOC is to a. easy removal for cleaning and b. removal so the toddler doesn't try play with them.

The spring return was extra security that they wouldn't be left open if the toddler did grab them etc or if I have guests who don't shut them fully
 
@KegLand-com-au, How do I set the time zone on my devices so I can get accurate exports? My account profile's timezone is correctly set set to UCT+10, so on the app, it displays correctly
Screenshot 2024-10-14 at 19.46.45.png


But when I export the data, it shows dates that are in the future.

Screenshot 2024-10-14 at 19.48.35.png

Also, is there a possibility to add an option to display time in 24 Hours instead of the AM/PM thing?

Thanks.
 
@KegLand-com-au, How do I set the time zone on my devices so I can get accurate exports? My account profile's timezone is correctly set set to UCT+10, so on the app, it displays correctlyView attachment 124707

But when I export the data, it shows dates that are in the future.

View attachment 124708
Also, is there a possibility to add an option to display time in 24 Hours instead of the AM/PM thing?

Thanks.

@KegLand-com-au, How do I set the time zone on my devices so I can get accurate exports? My account profile's timezone is correctly set set to UCT+10, so on the app, it displays correctlyView attachment 124707

But when I export the data, it shows dates that are in the future.

View attachment 124708
Also, is there a possibility to add an option to display time in 24 Hours instead of the AM/PM thing?

Thanks.
We are more than happy to help you with this one but for the RAPT platform updates can I ask if you can log this on this board instead:

https://gitlab.com/rapt.io/public/-/boards
 
Yes the K-lok fitting has no teeth. That is how that fitting is designed.

Does the k-lok fitting work without the spring? It's extremly rare to have that particular combination. Normally we only sell the K-lok fittings to commercial venues who generally want to free pour things like full jugs of beer without needing to hold onto the tap. I have not seen a the combination of tap spring and k-lok fitting before so it's possible you have revealed a new problem or particular combination that is not compatible.
Glad youve updated the Klok listing to note that the springs aren't compatible :)

I'm considering swapping to flow control taps or putting shut off valves behind my shanks at this stage

Though if I can track down a lathe ill bore/taper out the Klok males to match the MFL tap adapters sizing so the springs will work

Also you may want to update the pics on https://kegland.com.au/products/100...k-lok-compatible?_pos=22&_sid=934e447b5&_ss=r as to be Klok compatible they need to have the ends bored out and not flat like the pic

I have 2 of the old style flat shanks that I had to swap out for ones that have bored out ends to work with the kloks
 
Glad youve updated the Klok listing to note that the springs aren't compatible :)

I'm considering swapping to flow control taps or putting shut off valves behind my shanks at this stage

Though if I can track down a lathe ill bore/taper out the Klok males to match the MFL tap adapters sizing so the springs will work

Also you may want to update the pics on https://kegland.com.au/products/100...k-lok-compatible?_pos=22&_sid=934e447b5&_ss=r as to be Klok compatible they need to have the ends bored out and not flat like the pic

I have 2 of the old style flat shanks that I had to swap out for ones that have bored out ends to work with the kloks

Thanks for that. I will update the guys who are working on the website and get them to sort this out. Appreciate the heads up.
 
Thinking about it BAA, are you just chasing telemetry or full control via the Rapt controller?
I would love a simple glycol chiller that I could plug into my RAPT Temp Controller. The smallest glycol chillers available tend to have 2 controllers and pumps which I don't need. I'd prefer a slightly smaller unit with just 1 pump that will cool a single fermenter but that I could control with the RAPT.
 
I would love a simple glycol chiller that I could plug into my RAPT Temp Controller. The smallest glycol chillers available tend to have 2 controllers and pumps which I don't need. I'd prefer a slightly smaller unit with just 1 pump that will cool a single fermenter but that I could control with the RAPT.

Yes this is exactly what is getting done right now. Hopefully the new unit is finished in about 5-6 months.
 
I tend to brew hoppy beers and at the end of the boil, I pump through a coolossus back into the kettle for a whirlpool. My pump is a 25watt magnetic pump with a tri clover breakdown head fitted to it. I've noticed that after a while of whirlpooling my flow back into the kettle decreases. After breaking down the pump there is heaps of hop debris stuck to the inside of the impeller fins. Could I cut 5mm from the internal of each impeller fin to open up the gap and let the hop debris hopefully not get stuck or would the impeller cease to work properly?
 
I tend to brew hoppy beers and at the end of the boil, I pump through a coolossus back into the kettle for a whirlpool. My pump is a 25watt magnetic pump with a tri clover breakdown head fitted to it. I've noticed that after a while of whirlpooling my flow back into the kettle decreases. After breaking down the pump there is heaps of hop debris stuck to the inside of the impeller fins. Could I cut 5mm from the internal of each impeller fin to open up the gap and let the hop debris hopefully not get stuck or would the impeller cease to work properly?
Centrifugal pumps rely on the small clearance to generate flow

If you trim the impeller, you'd find it won't pump very well. It may even stop pumping altogether.
 
I have a BZ gen 4 35 ltI .... I want to brew with total water ....without sparge ... BIAB type...BUT WITH THE BASKET OF GRAINS Question: Should I consider the dead space of the pan under the false bottom?
 
Last edited:
Centrifugal pumps rely on the small clearance to generate flow

If you trim the impeller, you'd find it won't pump very well. It may even stop pumping altogether.
Thanks for the info. I had a feeling it mightn't work properly. Now I've been schooled by someone in the know!
 
Back
Top