Wort Chilling

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Your right, there is something about making equipment which i just cant pass up. I think an immersion chiller might be the way to go and then maybe upgrade it to a counter flow chiller if needed. The problem i have with copper is its so expensive and the range in length is pretty minimal at bunnings. I think its 3m or 18m-expensive!.

Can anyone recommend a place in adelaide to get some cheap copper tube?
 
Your right, there is something about making equipment which i just cant pass up. I think an immersion chiller might be the way to go and then maybe upgrade it to a counter flow chiller if needed. The problem i have with copper is its so expensive and the range in length is pretty minimal at bunnings. I think its 3m or 18m-expensive!.

Can anyone recommend a place in adelaide to get some cheap copper tube?
Try Bunnings Jacob, I got 18m annealed copper for $99 in a Melbourne store five-six weeks ago.
 
Any decent plumbing supply store should be able to sell to you by the metre, and probably at a cheaper price than Bunnies.

Cheers
 
Until it breaks.
as in.. 'brew like a madman until it breaks' or.. 'i'm skill challenged and my shit broke' ? :icon_cheers:



give your local scrap yard a try jacob, it was about $10 a kg the last time i bought some copper from a yard.

cheers
 
my only tip is if at any stage you are using an ice bath add salt, about a cup, this reduces the freezing temp and it get a whole lot colder....
 
My counter flow is made out of 6m of 12.7mm copper tube, the end fitting are labeled '15mm x 15mm x 20mm tee' the outer tube is PVC but other people use 3/4 hose, use what ever as long as it's a tight fit over the '20mm' end of the tee fittings. Slide the hose over the copper tube, then slide the tee fittings over the tube so that the '20mm' end is facing inwards towards the hose, solder the tee fittings in place slide the hose over the tee fittings and secure with hose clamps.
Before you slide the tee fitting over the copper tube solder a little bit of copper tube in the 12mm tee of the fitting so that later you can put a hose on it.
That's about it doesn't take much to build.
 
as in.. 'brew like a madman until it breaks' or.. 'i'm skill challenged and my shit broke' ? :icon_cheers:


cheers
Usually the latter for me, my homemade brewstand is about to collapse, it looks scary with a 50L pot of boiling wort on it.
 
just get a mashmaster chillout, no stuffin round, awesome quality and chills 23lts to 20deg in 10 mins. a no brainer really. dunno why you would waste your time trying to make one?

+1.

Plate chillers shit all over immersion chillers and you don't need to stuff around sourcing bits & pieces etc. Bite the bullet, buy one, happy days.
 
Ice bath is expensive (ie you could almost buy a carton for the price of ice and it is ineffective)

Blue cubes: Aka no chill results in drinking beer from plastic that was never meant to be heated to 100 C+ (yes sugar solutions heat to greater than 100C)

Plate chillers: Often plug with "break" material and hops.

Immersion chillers (coils of copper in the boil) work well so long as you "jiggle" the coil from time-to-time to maintain the effects of convection

Counterflow chillers: Copper inside hose are probably the safest, easiest and economical devices for the homebrewer to construct/use.

gf
 
Blue cubes: Aka no chill results in drinking beer from plastic that was never meant to be heated to 100 C+ (yes sugar solutions heat to greater than 100C)
There was some other, horrible downside. Wasn't there?

Besides, who is no chilling without whirlpooling? Who is whirlpooling at +100degC?
 
plate chillers pass through break material with no problem, and using a hop sock prevents hop debris from causing cloggage.
 
I'm not interested in no chilling as it's probably the least effective way of chilling wort (somewhat indicated by the name!). I am a strong believer that bitterness is increased even after hops are removed from wort above 75ishC - hence my reason to quickly chill down to 50. From 50 onwards i'm not to fussed as my sanitation is pretty good.
Yeah, I guess you're right. Nobody ever won an award with a no-chilled beer...
 
HDPE can withstand 120c for short periods, and 110c continuously.
 
There was some other, horrible downside. Wasn't there?

Besides, who is no chilling without whirlpooling? Who is whirlpooling at +100degC?

Everyone including you? Turn the heat off.....whirlpool.... wait.... bluecube (rated at 65C).

Bum, can you tell me how long it takes for a 10% sugar solution to decrease from 110C to 65C?

gf
 
Bum, can you tell me how long it takes for a 10% sugar solution to decrease from 110C to 65C?
Nah. Not sure how it is relevant though because my cube doesn't see 110C wort - and if anyone else's does they aren't trying to keep hot-break and trub out of their beer.

At what temp does BOTULISM become a worry, exactly? I usually pack at just a shade above 80C (as would anyone else who is hoping to whirlpool without convection currents ******* the job up).

You worry about no-chilling in plastic - what of the numerous people using polyclar without filtering? :eek:
 
Yeah, I guess you're right. Nobody ever won an award with a no-chilled beer...


Award winning for taste........probably. Using a cube for "no chill" and those consuming detrimental effects........probably.

Perhaps all the "nay sayers" should boil some water in a HDPE container, add malt extract, add yeast and see how they grow?

My experience is that they won't.

Perhaps it is the microwave? No, its not the microwave as water in glass supports normal growth of yeast.

Perhaps it is the HDPE in a microwave....maybe.

gf
 
Nah. Not sure how it is relevant though because my cube doesn't see 110C wort - and if anyone else's does they aren't trying to keep hot-break and trub out of their beer.

At what temp does BOTULISM become a worry, exactly? I usually pack at just a shade above 80C (as would anyone else who is hoping to whirlpool without convection currents ******* the job up).

You worry about no-chilling in plastic - what of the numerous people using polyclar without filtering? :eek:

Bum,

You seem to be swearing so calm down fella.

Polyclar. Yeah its a worry.

Be safe out there. Just because you can "bend the rules" doesn't mean you are right.

gf
 
HDPE can withstand 120c for short periods, and 110c continuously.

Felten,

I agree HDPE can sustain those temps. Ever notice HDPE with hot wort becomes stained? Its most probably because of a melting of the plastic and an exchange of chemical entities (plasticisers)

Yes, I know....I/my wife/partner/friend microwaves in plastic.

I ask , is it usual for this person to hold acidic sugar solutions for extended times (12 hr+) at these temps?

gf
 
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