QldKev's New Biab With Internal Rims

[Beerisyummy]

Hi QK,

Your results inspired me to totally overhaul my system on Sunday morning. I do a reverse flow up through the mash on my "pod" type of MT, but it's followed by a mash out sparging in the usual configuration.

I was struggling to get the flow quick enough. Now I know I can just drill a shirtload more holes and be done with it. Sweet!

Earlier on in the thread I said I'd bounce some ideas. Pics are the easy way to do that so here goes.....

My false bottom on the original pod.


The mesh screens that allow me to pump wort up as well as using gravity.


Pulling out 5kg of grain in the old setup.


The new and improved ( I hope) set up. I was bored and it was early on a Sunday morning.


All nestled together with 60% wheaty doughed in at tap temp.


Stick the lid on and you know the rest.


When I do my mash out sparge thingy at the end I use my system just like yours. I'm wondering if the mesh screens I use would help in your setup? You don't even need to worry about your flow getting too fast and grain flooding over the edges.

 

[nala]

Hi QK,

Your results inspired me to totally overhaul my system on Sunday morning. I do a reverse flow up through the mash on my "pod" type of MT, but it's followed by a mash out sparging in the usual configuration.

I was struggling to get the flow quick enough. Now I know I can just drill a shirtload more holes and be done with it. Sweet!

Earlier on in the thread I said I'd bounce some ideas. Pics are the easy way to do that so here goes.....

My false bottom on the original pod.

PA064385.JPG

The mesh screens that allow me to pump wort up as well as using gravity.

PA064380.JPG

Pulling out 5kg of grain in the old setup.

PA064382.JPG

The new and improved ( I hope) set up. I was bored and it was early on a Sunday morning.

PA204483.JPG

All nestled together with 60% wheaty doughed in at tap temp.

PA204485.JPG

Stick the lid on and you know the rest.

PA204487.JPG

When I do my mash out sparge thingy at the end I use my system just like yours. I'm wondering if the mesh screens I use would help in your setup? You don't even need to worry about your flow getting too fast and grain flooding over the edges.

Could you please explain where you drilled the "shitload" of holes, I think I understand your very well thought out rig but the pictures do not show the holes that you have drilled.
Do you still use the old false bottom ?
How coarse are the mesh screens ?
Where does your recirculated wort re-enter the outer pot ?
Could you please explain how your sparging works, do you raise the inner pot and let gravity perculate the sparge water through the grain ?
Cheers.

 

[Beerisyummy]

Hi Nala,
I'll get into the garage tomorrow and answer a few of your questions without clogging up this thread.

I pinched a nerve in my back on Friday and worked today. High as all get out on pain killers and beer right now.

 

[Beerisyummy]

Could you please explain where you drilled the "shitload" of holes, I think I understand your very well thought out rig but the pictures do not show the holes that you have drilled.
Do you still use the old false bottom ?
How coarse are the mesh screens ?
Where does your recirculated wort re-enter the outer pot ?
Could you please explain how your sparging works, do you raise the inner pot and let gravity perculate the sparge water through the grain ?
Cheers.

Sorry Kev, My back's still hurting and I'm still high on pain killers and beer. I'll start my own thread soon.

-I have not drilled more holes in the base yet. I will before my next brew.

-No, I don't use the old false bottom now but that only changed last weekend. I'm much happier with the new design but I had achieved over 100% mash efficiency on the old rig. It all depends on the mash schedule and what you want from your system.

-The mash screens are these ones http://www.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/products/10165849/ I use two now for my fine ground wheat beer and one of these http://www.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/products/10165849/ with the glass smashed out as a seal. You can get away with just one screen for most beers.

-The wort recirculates back into the "pod" through the bottom. The old one was plumbed into the bottom of a pot and the false bottom sat above it. The new one has the false bottom in the main pot and a cradle type arrangement that feeds the MT pot from underneath.

-I sparge by lifting the pod up and letting hot wort or water percolate through the mash just like Kev does. 15-20 minutes of this is enough to clear the wort up after disturbing the grain bed.

 

[Beerisyummy]

Hi QK,

How's the system coming along? Any upgrades?

 

[Econwatson]

I'm doing a maiden brew on my new rig which was inspired by Kev's rig and advice.

Does anybody have any insight on how far the bottom of the malt pipe should be from the element? I need to keep it pretty close because the return arm needs to get over the top of the malt pipe. Any advice?

Cheers!

 

[Bucks]

Love the build Kev, it might give me some encouragement to pull matho's controller out of the basket which i built but never did anything with!!

Are you happy with the ramp times with your build? What size element are you running and what size would you recommend if building again in a 50L keg? And have you done any upgrades?

I have a CB 2400W element in a CB 70L pot which i've been brewing single batches in however im unsure whether to use it as never been really wrapped in its performance.

Cheers for your time

 

[QldKev]

No more mods/upgrades to it since the last one posted in this thread.

Power wise more energy would be nice. I'm using a 2000w as by the time I include the controller and pump it starts getting me close to the 2400w/10amp limit of the circuit I use for it. I did need to use 3 layers of insulation to get a decent boil, and decent ramp rate. A bigger pot than the BigW would be great too, but it would become a harder fit.

 

[Bucks]

What about using 2 x 19L pots as a malt pipe thingy with one of them cut in half to extend the length as some have done in the braumeister NEXTGEN build??

If it was possible to shorten the legs on the pot and they didn't foul on anything ie. elements, it may work.

Cheers Bucks

 

[QldKev]

I've seen the pot in pot idea on someones brau clone. I looked at it, but I will probably only brew 1 or 2 beers a year that find the pot size a limit so though at this stage no more mods. (other hobbies sucking my personal budget dry)

 

[Bucks]

Maybe a concealed Crown urn element would be the go for this build. Allow for a lower malt pipe or more space for temp prob/ whirlpooling/ tap pickups??

 

[QldKev]

Maybe a concealed Crown urn element would be the go for this build. Allow for a lower malt pipe or more space for temp prob/ whirlpooling/ tap pickups??

I put one in my 3V's mash tun. I think they are too high of a heat density for mash temperatures. Needless to say, mine is now dead. It wont be getting replaced, I'm going to soup up the HERMS for the extra heating.

 

[McFeast]

Guys this thread was a great read. I'm a simple biab bloke and it can get messy and annoying at times. What you've shown here is something I can work towards. Just gotta find a 50l keg to cut and a decent inner pot.. Your setups look clean and organised too. Top shelf!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[QldKev]

Guys this thread was a great read. I'm a simple biab bloke and it can get messy and annoying at times. What you've shown here is something I can work towards. Just gotta find a 50l keg to cut and a decent inner pot.. Your setups look clean and organised too. Top shelf!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

My inner pot is just a 19L BigW pot, cost <$20.

 

[indica86]

Kev, what is he value in recirculating the wort? Is it clarity then less trub? Better flavour? Increased efficiency?

 

[QldKev]

All of above

It's been debated on here about wort clarity effecting the final product or not, but I think it helps.
Flavor, you can ensure / maintain better temperature control and allow for multiple temperature steps accurately and easily.
Efficiency, I get 85% pre-boil and only hose-sparge. (hose-sparge: batch sparge using cold water from a hose.) I used to get 75% in my traditional BIAB days.

One thing to remember, the 1V setup is a great system and I find it makes brewing a lot easier on the day. But at the end of the day pick a system you are happy with. I also enjoy brewing on my 3V, and think both systems make equally great beer. If you are ever down this way look me up and come over for a brew day. The best way is to see them in action, and see what you think of it.

 

[indica86]

Thanks. Buying some gear soon so getting my head around it all.

Thanks for the drop in offer too.

 

[Beerisyummy]

Kev, have you ever had issues with stuck sparges? I tried a run today, without the normal reverse flow to start, and the damn thing stuck like never before.
Admittedly, I grind reasonably fine and used the drill mixer to mash in this time.

 

[QldKev]

I did initially have an issue with slow draining before I added the extra holes. It never stuck, just was not as fast as I like to flow. But I moreso blame the high % of really old flaked maize as it set like custard in the bottom of the pot. Since then I have not used a high % of maize, I have the extra holes and not had any more issues. It would be great to incorporate something into the design to prevent the grain from being able to over flow from the top, it could also second to ensure an even recirc water distribution. But I'm not really concerned so it will be another year or two before I worry about it.

 

[Beerisyummy]

Thanks Kev. I think I need to drill a few more holes in my pot to solve the problem.