QldKev's New Biab With Internal Rims

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The theory is splashing wort when hot can result in long term some unwanted flavors being developed. Remember some of these flavors will not develop immediately, it could just setup the precursors of them. How to brew link for HSA

Mine does allow some aeration during sparging, as the wort level touching the bottom of the pot is the level where I finish at. But it is only 1 pass of wort as it drains and not a constant recirculation doing it. I've never noticed an issue from HSA, but I try and minimize it where possible by design.
 
Hey Kev, hoping you can help me. Currently in the process of finishing off a build similar to yours, and can't work out where to put the temp probe. Do you still have yours down towards the bottom of your pot? Any problems with temp differences between the mash and what you're measuring?

Cheers... and thanks for sharing your design
 
Rambo said:
Hey Kev, hoping you can help me. Currently in the process of finishing off a build similar to yours, and can't work out where to put the temp probe. Do you still have yours down towards the bottom of your pot? Any problems with temp differences between the mash and what you're measuring?

Cheers... and thanks for sharing your design

The temp probe is still in the same place, the bottom of the pot and not too close to the heating element. The majority of the enzyme activity occurs in the wort and not within the grain itself. That's why any long term HERMS and RIMS users always measure from the exit of the heat exchanger, as that is where you get the best reading and it prevents the wort being overheated and converting at too high a temperature. Measuring the wort at the hottest point there will always be some temperature lag within the grain bed during ramping up of temperatures. We can minimize that temperature lag by having sufficient wort flow through the grain bed so a decent false bottom design is required that allows a good flow without getting stuck mashes. The malt pipe/inner pot setup has the additional advantage that the mash bed is additionally heated from the wort surrounding it and not just the wort flowing through it.
 
Cheers. Thanks for taking the time for a thorough explanation... Bottom of the pot it is.

Always learning!
 
Hi Kev,

Where did you get the reflective insulation wrap for your kettle? Is it Reflectix?

I can't seem to find any anywhere, for cheap, that does a decent job. I also don't really need 60 metres of the stuff.

Thanks!
 
Simpsoid said:
Hi Kev,

Where did you get the reflective insulation wrap for your kettle? Is it Reflectix?

I can't seem to find any anywhere, for cheap, that does a decent job. I also don't really need 60 metres of the stuff.

Thanks!
Mine doesn't have a foil type insulation. I used material. An old blanket, then a stretchy material (think boob tube material) over it.
 
/Hi QldKev,

Over the last couple of months I have been putting together a 1 vessel system. I thought your design was one of the simplest and best, so a copied it. Hope you don't mind. I haven't used it yet. Do you think it will flow enough with the amount of holes and slits I have cut? I'm going to make a Matho’s Controller for it as well. Thanks for sharing the ideas etc.

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/gallery/image/8800-img-1950

I'm not sure how to insert images. However have an album in the gallery section.
 
Man that looks awesome Pugwash. I'm trying the same thing, but yours looks so much better than mine. Great job.
 
Looks great pugwash! Your outer pot looks beautiful. Where did you get it?
 
Looks good mate, I have been building similar, with some help from Kev. Your pot looks far better than my keg though.
 
50L. I seems pretty solid. Thickist walls. Strong handles(riveted through though). Thick base. Not that the base mattered so much, as I'm internally heating. The build quality could be slightly better(nothing really to worry about). A bit more capacity then a crown urn. But not as much a 70L brew pot. I couldn't see myself ever doing double batches.
 
noice... What did you seal the wood with? I made a similar trolley for my two 1-vessels. Tossing up between epoxy or 1-pack polyurethane. Here is some pics of mine, looks ghetto compared to yours. I have done a few brews on mine but am yet to fit out my trolley with filters, counter-flow chiller, pumps, hose reel etc

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/gallery/album/1184-brewery-build/
 
Ideally, the outlet of the pump would be at the top so you dont have any trapped air. I have read that hot side oxidation can cause off flavors. Probably just being pedantic as I am with such things.
 
Hi Eagleburger. I used a kitchen bench/chopping block oil. Basically tung oil. It does have a matt finish but with a few coats you can build more of a shine. It shouldn't contaminate food/grain once it has dried. However, the main reason I used it was that I was worried about heat ruining the finish. I though a poly, etc couldn't handle the heat. I can re-oil if needed. I hope it is good. Don't know for sure.
 
Pugwash said:
/Hi QldKev,

Over the last couple of months I have been putting together a 1 vessel system. I thought your design was one of the simplest and best, so a copied it. Hope you don't mind. I haven't used it yet. Do you think it will flow enough with the amount of holes and slits I have cut? I'm going to make a Matho’s Controller for it as well. Thanks for sharing the ideas etc.

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/gallery/image/8800-img-1950

I'm not sure how to insert images. However have an album in the gallery section.
Glad you liked the design. A functional simple setup was the plan. I think the base should have plenty of open area for the wort to flow.
 
This build has inspired me to do a similar build. Pot acquired today and modifications begun to put it in my urn.

Thanks Kev
 
Cool vid Kev. How often do you use this system vs your larger system now?
 
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