KegLand Questions and Answers

[ozdevil]

Just going by what I was informed about this
Personally I wouldn’t use plastic pressure vessels unless I knew they had been pressure tested
I’ve seen too many photo’s of plastic ferments that have had similar problems. (supplied by the same company )

my understanding is that they are rated to 34 psi (or there about) so if it blew at 15psi I doubt if it was operator error

you doubt it was operatoer error after someone informing you

I have seen plenty of plastic fermenters and pet kegs blow as well many wasnt due to manufacting issue it was user error


has the person informed you told you exactly what happened or was he just telling you it was 15 psi and didnt want to look like a **** becuase he accidently set it above the rated 34 psi

i am not saying it was opeterator error

it can be a manufactur issue and if it was i hope the person who informed you or the owner of said pet keg went to the manufacturer
and spoke to them

 

[Vic]

you doubt it was operatoer error after someone informing you

I have seen plenty of plastic fermenters and pet kegs blow as well many wasnt due to manufacting issue it was user error


has the person informed you told you exactly what happened or was he just telling you it was 15 psi and didnt want to look like a **** becuase he accidently set it above the rated 34 psi

i am not saying it was opeterator error

it can be a manufactur issue and if it was i hope the person who informed you or the owner of said pet keg went to the manufacturer
and spoke to them

It does seem like a dodgy photo of a 4L keg that exploded with only 15PSI and sprayed 20L. A full keg with only a small amount of headspace does not have enough propellant (compressed CO2) to spread the contents very far unless it is a small breach below the liquid. On the other hand a nearly empty Keg will have a lot of propellant and if the breach is below liquid level would have the power to spread what’s left of the contents a reasonable distance. The story and photo do not make sense.

 

[Vic]

Photo is a 4 litre vessel with the bottom broken out. You can look at it all day and it won’t tell you the story of what happened. Maybe someone dropped it sometime and caused a weakness, maybe it had been stressed from being overpressurised sometime. Maybe someone forgot to carb the beer and thought they’d give it a burst and ended up bursting the keg. Or maybe there was a manufacturing flaw. For sure it didn’t put 20 litres of beer anywhere so someone is pulling your leg about that part at least, which doesn’t inspire confidence in the ‘15psi’ part of the story. 4 litres turns into 20, 40 psi turns into 15, who knows.

Please have a look at the attached picture. This is an enlargement of a section of the original photo. Please note the smooth rounded edges (the white bits) on the breached part of the keg. This is inconsistent with an explosive force as rough jagged edges would be expected. To cause this smooth edge would require applied heat.

 

[Half Pint]

Yeah, dunno about that one. They’re multi-layer and that bit looks like it’s torn to me, which could happen as the layers gave way, but I’ve never seen one that’s been blown up or melted or otherwise destroyed so that aspect is outside my experience. If you look closely at the original photo it looks like there’s some other damage too.
But anyway, it’s obviously a staged photo (ie parts have been posed in a dry stainless sink) and it proves nothing about anything. Kind of a “pic for attention” sort of thing.

 

[TwoCrows]

Viewer Discretion is advised!!






https://www.instagram.com/dmoneyindustry/reel/C7Uk7lXPvoc/?hl=en

 

[Vic]

Yeah, dunno about that one. They’re multi-layer and that bit looks like it’s torn to me, which could happen as the layers gave way, but I’ve never seen one that’s been blown up or melted or otherwise destroyed so that aspect is outside my experience. If you look closely at the original photo it looks like there’s some other damage too.
But anyway, it’s obviously a staged photo (ie parts have been posed in a dry stainless sink) and it proves nothing about anything. Kind of a “pic for attention” sort of thing.

No! They are not multi layer. Check the KL website. They are described as a mono layer item. The soft rounded edges in the enlarged photo don’t make sense of a breach incident at 15PSI. But yes, staged, something this forum could do without,

 

[Half Pint]

No! They are not multi layer. Check the KL website. They are described as a mono layer item. The soft rounded edges in the enlarged photo don’t make sense of a breach incident at 15PSI. But yes, staged, something this forum could do without,

I can see an 8 litre ‘monolayer’ keg on the Kegland site, but the 4 litre kegs are described as multi layer, suitable for storing beer up to 12 months.
The 4 litre multi layer kegs are $21 whereas the 8 litre monolayer is only $8.

 

[Vic]

I can see an 8 litre ‘monolayer’ keg on the Kegland site, but the 4 litre kegs are described as multi layer, suitable for storing beer up to 12 months.
The 4 litre multi layer kegs are $21 whereas the 8 litre monolayer is only $8.

Yes you a correct. Please see attached for pricing as of this post. Still does not explain the rounded edges on the breach.

 

[Kangarookid]

I'm wondering if there is any general time frame for when the updated g20 could be released ?

 

[KegLand-com-au]

I'm kinda done with this and documented the process into a PDF file which I shared in my google drive:

Great. Thanks for that. I am sure other customers will find this really helpful.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Photo is a 4 litre vessel with the bottom broken out. You can look at it all day and it won’t tell you the story of what happened. Maybe someone dropped it sometime and caused a weakness, maybe it had been stressed from being overpressurised sometime. Maybe someone forgot to carb the beer and thought they’d give it a burst and ended up bursting the keg. Or maybe there was a manufacturing flaw. For sure it didn’t put 20 litres of beer anywhere so someone is pulling your leg about that part at least, which doesn’t inspire confidence in the ‘15psi’ part of the story. 4 litres turns into 20, 40 psi turns into 15, who knows.

Yes I would tend to agree and the story seems a bit fishy to be honest with one person clearly posting a 4L keg then another person conveniently knows that it was a 20L keg which could not be possible based on the original photo. With that said please post your order number on the forum and we can follow the incident up, supply any refund to the owner and also do a bit more research on how the issue happened and report back to the forum with more detail.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

I'm wondering if there is any general time frame for when the updated g20 could be released ?

I would say the new G20 will not be released this year. After carful consideration we feel that it's best if the G20 also has bluetooth so it can talk to the new RAPT Glycol controller. This will improve the overall feature set of the devices and I think it's worth including but these additional features will push out the G20 and the new RAPT glycol controler out until some time in 2025. Sorry about this delay.

 

[Kangarookid]

I would say the new G20 will not be released this year. After carful consideration we feel that it's best if the G20 also has bluetooth so it can talk to the new RAPT Glycol controller. This will improve the overall feature set of the devices and I think it's worth including but these additional features will push out the G20 and the new RAPT glycol controler out until some time in 2025. Sorry about this delay.

No probs, I'm also wondering if you will be selling parts to upgrade the current model to the new specs ?

Cheers!

 

[KegLand-com-au]

No probs, I'm also wondering if you will be selling parts to upgrade the current model to the new specs ?

Cheers!

Upgrading one of our old Chillers to the new RAPT Glycol Chiller with pinch valve and heating element is fairly easy.

The warming wizard just came in stock by the way which you can see here:
https://kegland.com.au/products/warming-wand-2-tc-element-125watt-220-240v-31watt-110-120v

You can see how this works with the new glycol chiller system an RAPT controller in this video here:


As you can see from the video the glycol chiller just pressurizes one line continuously with the pump and the flow of glycol is all done by the RAPT Glycol Chiller with integrated valve.

 

[clickeral]

Hey ive just installed self closing tap springs into my nuka taps and had to swap from the internal washer to a seal on the shank they are attached too (im using Klock disconnects) do you have a replacement seal kit?

My current stock is getting low and I want to get some more

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Hey ive just installed self closing tap springs into my nuka taps and had to swap from the internal washer to a seal on the shank they are attached too (im using Klock disconnects) do you have a replacement seal kit?

My current stock is getting low and I want to get some more

https://kegland.com.au/products/k-lok-kinglok-female-o-ring-kits9pcs-for-kl04916-04947-07184

This is the sealk kit for the k-lok fittings.

This particular o-ring is sold quite a bit and sold separately:
https://kegland.com.au/products/replacement-male-o-ring-for-k-lok-male-x-tap-shank-adaptor

 

[clickeral]

https://kegland.com.au/products/k-lok-kinglok-female-o-ring-kits9pcs-for-kl04916-04947-07184

This is the sealk kit for the k-lok fittings.

This particular o-ring is sold quite a bit and sold separately:
https://kegland.com.au/products/replacement-male-o-ring-for-k-lok-male-x-tap-shank-adaptor

Sorry to be clear I'm after the seal that goes around the shank under the collar

I've got springs to return to taps to closed so I can't use the washer behind the tap as the collar doesn't engage far enough to seal

Black one in picture, seems there is 5 in the KLOC kit so I'm guessing you don't have a pack of just those seals?

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Sorry to be clear I'm after the seal that goes around the shank under the collar

I've got springs to return to taps to closed so I can't use the washer behind the tap as the collar doesn't engage far enough to seal

Black one in picture, seems there is 5 in the KLOC kit so I'm guessing you don't have a pack of just those seals?

You should not need that seal and I would recommend removing it all together if you are using the Nukatap Taps.

The only reason to use that seal is if you are using a tap that was not purchased from KegLand and the tap is not well designed.

As you can see from this diagram here:
https://kegland.com.au/cdn/shop/files/Nukatap_KL15509_6a03bcc1-7fe0-41db-8175-91ad69d5c0ee.pdf

The tap should seal on the shank sealing washer (seal number 9).

This is the most sanitary place to seal so beer doesn't end up around the knurling.

It's only for poorly designed taps and shanks that you should seal on the face of the tap body.

 

[clickeral]

You should not need that seal and I would recommend removing it all together if you are using the Nukatap Taps.

The only reason to use that seal is if you are using a tap that was not purchased from KegLand and the tap is not well designed.

As you can see from this diagram here:
https://kegland.com.au/cdn/shop/files/Nukatap_KL15509_6a03bcc1-7fe0-41db-8175-91ad69d5c0ee.pdf

The tap should seal on the shank sealing washer (seal number 9).

This is the most sanitary place to seal so beer doesn't end up around the knurling.

It's only for poorly designed taps and shanks that you should seal on the face of the tap body.

So when I use the normal seals with the Klock quick connects (male onto the tap) and a return spring you can't get them tight enough to seal and beer comes out the side

So normal washer and no spring you



I can get full collar engagement




With Spring I can't get the collar to fully engage so it won't seal on the washer and it leaks


In saying that I find the spring feels like it's binding if I overtighten and doesn't feel as smooth as one I've got on a balllock disconnect currently

Edit:

Went and checked my other tap

I set this one up after I'd done the Klock so went straight to a shank seal instead of the washer

Note the latest ball lock adapter fits the spring better (not as tight) reassembled with a washer and no leaks etc (collar fully engaged)



Klock tap swapped onto the old style balllock adaptor also no issue with the washer


I've got a ballock male to shank and triclamp to tap shank adaprers as well but can't be bothered testing that right now

The K Lok has no teeth to engage the tap either

The spring seems alittle big for the Klok hole and doesnt slide in as easy as the other two fittings

Springs seem to be 17.5mm diameter (not the most accurate measuring) and the Klok hole seems to be 17.1mm I can force the spring in the hole but its not as easy as the other two

Latest adapter is 18mm ID
Old adapter is 18mm but is does taper down to 13mm at the bottom

Is this an issue you have with stock at site?

 

[KegLand-com-au]

So when I use the normal seals with the Klock quick connects (male onto the tap) and a return spring you can't get them tight enough to seal and beer comes out the side

So normal washer and no spring you
View attachment 124691
View attachment 124692

I can get full collar engagement

View attachment 124693
View attachment 124694

With Spring I can't get the collar to fully engage so it won't seal on the washer and it leaks
View attachment 124695View attachment 124696View attachment 124697

In saying that I find the spring feels like it's binding if I overtighten and doesn't feel as smooth as one I've got on a balllock disconnect currently

Edit:

Went and checked my other tap

I set this one up after I'd done the Klock so went straight to a shank seal instead of the washer

Note the latest ball lock adapter fits the spring better (not as tight) reassembled with a washer and no leaks etc (collar fully engaged)

View attachment 124698

Klock tap swapped onto the old style balllock adaptor also no issue with the washer
View attachment 124699

I've got a ballock male to shank and triclamp to tap shank adaprers as well but can't be bothered testing that right now

The K Lok has no teeth to engage the tap either

The spring seems alittle big for the Klok hole and doesnt slide in as easy as the other two fittings

Springs seem to be 17.5mm diameter (not the most accurate measuring) and the Klok hole seems to be 17.1mm I can force the spring in the hole but its not as easy as the other two

Latest adapter is 18mm ID
Old adapter is 18mm but is does taper down to 13mm at the bottom

Is this an issue you have with stock at site?

Yes the K-lok fitting has no teeth. That is how that fitting is designed.

Does the k-lok fitting work without the spring? It's extremly rare to have that particular combination. Normally we only sell the K-lok fittings to commercial venues who generally want to free pour things like full jugs of beer without needing to hold onto the tap. I have not seen a the combination of tap spring and k-lok fitting before so it's possible you have revealed a new problem or particular combination that is not compatible.