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Main reason was that TC is really the only true airtight under pressure fitting. I've found camlocks can be leaky, QD's highly depend on the o-ring same with the snaplock etc. Just depends what purpose you want to use the super sucker for. I had assumed cold side transfers which means you need TC even from a sanitation perspective.
I've never had a problem with my camlocks leaking. Yes, my though was to use it for cold-side transfers, in which case the beer will be going from keg to keg. I've never seen a keg with a TC, so there would be at least one fatlock/ quick disconnect involved on each hose anyway.
 
I've been browsing the new website today (and having a homebrew :drinkingbeer:); so far I'm liking what I've seen .

I've found the Super Sucker, which looks like a handy thing to have around. My concern is, I would want flexibility about what connections I use on the other end of the hoses, so would like some sort of quick disconnect on the pump inlet and outlet. That way I can use my existing stock of hoses to connect to whatever I need on each end.

Any suggestions what I could/should use for this?

Probably one of the easiest ways to achieve this is to use the camlock fittings. These will screw onto the threads on the inlet and outlet of the pump.
Main reason was that TC is really the only true airtight under pressure fitting. I've found camlocks can be leaky, QD's highly depend on the o-ring same with the snaplock etc. Just depends what purpose you want to use the super sucker for. I had assumed cold side transfers which means you need TC even from a sanitation perspective.

If you are using this pump for cold side transfers then I would just be using these duotight fittings on either side and then use the 3/8 evabarrier then the 3/8 ball lock fittings on either side.
 
Hey Kegland, are you going to be brewing more of your Fresh3 wort kits?

We literally can't make these kits fast enough at the moment. Yes we have more on the way but the Fresh3 ones are selling out as fast as we can get them completed. Were there any other kits that you guys would like to see. You guys mentioned you wanted to see a kettle sour kit so we are doing this at the moment.
 
Probably one of the easiest ways to achieve this is to use the camlock fittings. These will screw onto the threads on the inlet and outlet of the pump.
I'd have to make new hoses. I'll keep thinking about it.
 
Not a bad idea, but I don't have any TC fittings anywhere in the brewery. I was thinking either corny post or fatlock type fittings to use transferring beer. Problem is I can't find any with 1/2" BSP.

Could use camlock, but I only have camlock-camlock hoses for my 3V, so that's a bit limiting.

Decisions, decisions.

I think I need a beer or three while I consider this further.

With TC off the pump you can have camlock/ball lock adapters with TC connections etc
 
Probably one of the easiest ways to achieve this is to use the camlock fittings. These will screw onto the threads on the inlet and outlet of the pump.


If you are using this pump for cold side transfers then I would just be using these duotight fittings on either side and then use the 3/8 evabarrier then the 3/8 ball lock fittings on either side.
Can this pump be stripped down completely for cleaning?
 
Interested in the oxebar kegs but there have been a couple of recent reviews where people are having trouble getting them to seal.
Do you have any comment regarding sealing issues ?
 

Yes we are looking to stock them and you should be careful purchasing this stuff from America as I think all of the American models are 110v. We are working with them at the moment to get them to make a 220-240v compatible model.

We are also looking at bringing out a heater that will attach to the TC port on the fermenter too so I think this is another good alternative. Either way more heating options will be available very soon.
 
Interested in the oxebar kegs but there have been a couple of recent reviews where people are having trouble getting them to seal.
Do you have any comment regarding sealing issues ?

Which part are they having issues sealing. I use these myself without ay issues so it would be good to know exactly where the sealing problem is coming from. Most leaks are very easy to fix once you know where the leak is coming from.
 
I would love for you guys to stock something like this. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000571142823.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.33dd41cdcNSCvf&algo_pvid=bd727597-97ab-48e1-b856-3ca958e7b2c4&algo_exp_id=bd727597-97ab-48e1-b856-3ca958e7b2c4-0&pdp_npi=3@dis!AUD!171.99!85.99!!!!!@2102196716822453078406942d071e!10000003073316063!sea!AU!833426196&curPageLogUid=wDVpY7TLEbjD

I use a Digiboil as a brew kettle and a hop spider doesn't cut it when I'm using a heap of hops. I would love to let the hops swim freely, use a massive whirlpool addition and then remove all hops after chilling but before transfer.

This has come up a couple times. I think our current false bottom does seem to already work fairly well in the BrewZilla so I think the easiest is just to use the BrewZilla screen in the digiboil and raise the screen above the tap outlet.

With that said we have got this request a few times now so we will look into this. Do you know what preferred mesh size you would like for this product?
 
Can this pump be stripped down completely for cleaning?

Yes you can. You need a Phillips head screw driver and you can completely take apart the pump head and check valves. It's a little bit fiddley so I would do this over a tray so you do not loose the springs. If you completely break down it would take less than 5 minutes.
 
Which part are they having issues sealing. I use these myself without ay issues so it would be good to know exactly where the sealing problem is coming from. Most leaks are very easy to fix once you know where the leak is coming from.
Read the two latest reviews on your own site.
One was PRV the other cap thread.
 
@KegLand-com-au

1) Any reason your 'Low Volume CIP Spinning Spray Rotor' (KL04329) has taken so long? Also, why the huge price of $10? Seems way overs for what it is.

2) Can you please give consideration to creating a locking mechanism to fit over the adjustment knob of the blowtie spunding valve? When set at low PSI (i.e. 5 PSI) it is very easy to knock the adjustment knob which forces you to recalibrate. Can't recall where I saw it; but someone had 3D printed a locking cover to go over the adjustment knob so it couldn't be moved. Thought it was a great idea and would come in handy.

3) Any further update regarding your mini tap?
Bump please @KegLand-com-au
 
1. The CIP spray rotor is on a boat so it will be arriving very soon. (within a couple weeks)
2. With the blowtie spunding valve what if we had a knob that you could screw in and out with a screw driver. We can make this fairly easily and this would probably solve the issue.
3. We had to change one very small part of the mini tap so I am sorry this got delayed again but it is probably 1 month away now from being released.
 
2. With the blowtie spunding valve what if we had a knob that you could screw in and out with a screw driver. We can make this fairly easily and this would probably solve the issue.
Allen key or a socket would be better than a screwdriver.

Or make the yellow handle removable, with a retaining cable to attach it to the body of the blowtie itself. If you do this, make whatever you use as the drive at the bottom of the removable handle is a standard size (e.g. 6mm hex socket) so people have a backup option.
 
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