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Settle down. It's 3 days later. What would you prefer no idea when items will be back in stock or a 'guide' as to when they will be.

The 'let's bash Kegland' forum is starting to get old, and yes I did mean forum!
Don't see any bashing at all. So you may want to settle down. It's the second time it had moved and it's more than 2 weeks after the first date. Just slightly annoyed i bought the rest of the gear expecting this to be in stock last month as originally claimed. Now i have a pile of gear i can't use till i get this. Specific dates are dates. Mid April or early may would be a guide
 
I feel bad that they need to respond to half the nonsense in here. They aren't letting shipping dates slip just to annoy you, nor should they need to justify to you the pricing decisions they make.
 
I feel bad that they need to respond to half the nonsense in here. They aren't letting shipping dates slip just to annoy you, nor should they need to justify to you the pricing decisions they make.
Mate have a look at my post history. I have never bagged then at all. I have defended them when others have. I have every right to try and find ot what's going on with a product im chasing that they said they will have on a given date. Ive never mentioned any pricing at all. This is a thread they started for the purpose of questions regarding their products. I think this falls in that.
 
Hi Kegland, on your Reflux still video you say to stop collecting after the temperature goes up by 1*c. Does that apply for a stripping run?

In my stripping run I let it go up 5*c and it was still 86%.

How times have changed
 
I think the only disinterest would come about if you are thinking of putting the price up $100 like you did on the Cannular . So with the upgraded rollers and body is there a price increase on the Maltzilla?

I will do my best to compare the new MaltZilla with the current mills that we sell. The pricing below is a rough guide and can't see the price changing drastically on this in the near future.

Obviously these are the ones that we currently have:
Mult Muncher - 3 Roller Grain Mill - $162
Mult Muncher - 2 Roller Grain Mill - $86
Mill Motor - $220 (we have already discontinued this item as some customers found this to be too expensive)

The MaltZilla will probably be released in two different models:
MaltZilla - Knurled Roller (approximate price $90
MaltZilla - With the New Surface Finish (approximate price $110)
MaltZilla Motor - approximate price $95
Both models will have a much larger 70mm diameter roller.

If you compare the price of the MaltZilla to the other Mills we sell they are similar as stand alone mills. If you compare the mill and motor together then the MaltZilla is better value. The price is effectively quite similar to the current mills so I don't think price is the main driving factor to purchase the new mill. The main reason to purchase the MaltZilla is:
1. Better quality grist. More specifically the kernel is fully broken open while the husk more intact
2. If you get the new surface finish you will extremely long lasting life on your rollers and they will continue to draw really well and not wear out like knurled or hobbed roller will eventually
3. Integrated motor design making the motor and mill assembly more compact
4. It has well thought out mounting options which we will explain later so the mill can be mounted under bench or over bench. This will require a video to explain this feature properly.

Although you can hand crank (not sure who does this. I am pretty sure nobody cranks the mill by hand right?). You can use a drill but I still don't really love the drill as it doesn't always give you the best control over RPM and this can effect grist consistency. So I hope most customers will spend the extra and get the motor option as it will control the milling process at a little over 100rpm which gives a fantastic crush. I will say this is not the fastest mill when operated at this speed but it gives the best possible results and I think most customers would be happy to mill at 1-1.4kg per min and would find this acceptably fast.
 
Additional cost for the power supply and lead?
The way I am reading it is knurled roller $90 (app) motor $95 power supply and lead $69.95 = $254.95
New surface finish rollers $110 (app) motor $95 power supply and lead $69.95 = $274 95.
I use the 3 roller Malt Muncher I drilled a hole through the trigger of a pistol drill and put a cable tie through the hole, limiting the trigger operation, thereby keeping a constant low milling speed.
 
Let me guess, the new surface rollers are fluted?
I was thinking along those lines, I can't imagine a knurled finish would gain enough purchase to pull pop corn through, not unless it was popped pop corn they were talking about.
 
The way I am reading it is knurled roller $90 (app) motor $95 power supply and lead $69.95 = $254.95
New surface finish rollers $110 (app) motor $95 power supply and lead $69.95 = $274 95.
I use the 3 roller Malt Muncher I drilled a hole through the trigger of a pistol drill and put a cable tie through the hole, limiting the trigger operation, thereby keeping a constant low milling speed.

Yes, it's true to say that if you really want to save money with the MaltZilla and use a drill then put a hole through the trigger you might get some degree of control over the mill speed. As you can imagine if we recommended that solution as our only option for speed control some customers might not be satisfied as they may not feel comfortable putting a hole into the trigger of their cordless drill. Perhaps if they were not as skilled as you at putting a hole in the trigger they may also not find it easy to get the hole in the precise position to get the ideal RPM. But for those who don't mind spending a bit more money on a high quality motor with a good IP rating to prevent water and grain dust getting into the motor, and also with enough torque to crush stuff as hard as popcorn without any change in the RPM then I think the motor is a solid reliable option.
 
Let me guess, the new surface rollers are fluted?


You will have to guess again. We did some experimentation with fluted but fluted rollers also have similar issue to knurled/hobbed rollers. They still go blunt eventually and then do not draw grain.
 
Hey guys , if this in the wrong place apologies . I’ve been using your gear for a while now and loving it . One issue

I poor a couple of beers out of my kegs they are great , I get to the 3rd or 4th and they go flat .

Carb my beer at 300psi for 24 hours and poor them at 10 -14 psi .

What the heck am I doing wrong ?

The beer is still carbed but it looks like cordial

Some ideas I thought.

- beer line is to long .
- a leak
- not carbed enough .

Please help
 
Just wanted to say thanks to Oli from Kegland for his customer service yesterday.

Called yesterday at around 4pm to ask if it was possible to buy a malt pipe (to allow me to use my urn as a 1v system) and by 5:30 the item was listed online, I had placed an order and had received an email with shipping confirmation.

I know people have had problems with the occasional product (I have once or twice) but, in my experience, their customer service has always been excellent.

HB
 
I might have missed the updated info but I just put a third intertap on my setup and it is slightly different from the other 2 that I bought about 8 months ago.
The coller part that sits under the screw on handle is slightly taller and the whole handle assembly moves from side to side (jiggles around) but my other 2 a rock solid.
Just thought i would mention it for those perfectionists like myself that want everything to be the same because it makes the beer taste that much better[emoji28]
 
Hey guys , if this in the wrong place apologies . I’ve been using your gear for a while now and loving it . One issue

I poor a couple of beers out of my kegs they are great , I get to the 3rd or 4th and they go flat .

Carb my beer at 300psi for 24 hours and poor them at 10 -14 psi .

What the heck am I doing wrong ?

The beer is still carbed but it looks like cordial

Some ideas I thought.

- beer line is to long .
- a leak
- not carbed enough .

Please help


When you say you get to the 3rd and 4th you mean the 3rd or 4th glass and then it goes flat?

300psi is quite high. Do you mean 30psi perhaps? 300psi will blow most of the PRVs open at this pressure.

When you say it's carbed but looks like cordial what do you mean? It might be best if you send us some photos or take a video of how you carb so we can better assist. If you can email us at [email protected] that would be good.
 
Just wanted to say thanks to Oli from Kegland for his customer service yesterday.

Called yesterday at around 4pm to ask if it was possible to buy a malt pipe (to allow me to use my urn as a 1v system) and by 5:30 the item was listed online, I had placed an order and had received an email with shipping confirmation.

I know people have had problems with the occasional product (I have once or twice) but, in my experience, their customer service has always been excellent.

HB

Thanks for that! Hope we can assist you again soon.
 
I might have missed the updated info but I just put a third intertap on my setup and it is slightly different from the other 2 that I bought about 8 months ago.
The coller part that sits under the screw on handle is slightly taller and the whole handle assembly moves from side to side (jiggles around) but my other 2 a rock solid.
Just thought i would mention it for those perfectionists like myself that want everything to be the same because it makes the beer taste that much better[emoji28]

Firstly I should say that a number of counterfeit Intertap units have been made that we are aware of. If you purchased them from us they would be genuine so that will not be the issue. Also you would notice a small change from Gen 1 to Gen 2 intertap taps. KegLand has always only sold Gen 2 units. So I assume you are aware of this small change too right?

It could be possible that you have a part that was not machined correctly but best to email us photos so we can confirm. If that is the case we would replace the part.
 
Hey KegLand, would it be easy enough to bypass the circuit board for the 65l digiboil to make it a very simple urn with no temp control, just switching the elements on and off? (Let’s call it an analog boil, or anaboil.)

For use with my (almost completed) craftbeer pi controller.

Would be a perfect solution for me to upgrade to double batches...
 
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