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Wow this escallated some what from my original intention to bring awareness of potential outcomes from "forgetting" steps in a simple proceedure.

Sure read the manual it could say don't leave trub in the collection container & don't forget to open the valve etc,
but as for warning lables etc whats the point, if you forget or don't follow the safe use steps.

So my guns don't have or need warning labels all over them to use them, but if I didn't follow or miss/forget a step in the simple procedure on the correct use and hurt myself, should I add warning labels all over them to remind me for next time? I think not.

As for warning the stupid out of things, should there be a "not for internal use" label on it also then? (they are out there & live amongst us)

I live by the philosophy
"Learn from other peoples mistakes, as life's to short to make them all yourself"

share your experiences, live & learn people

now lets stop the nit picking, bickering & snide comments back and forth and get back to what we enjoy and are here for
sharing the joy & experiences of Home Brewing within our community

peace out
 
Wow this escallated some what from my original intention to bring awareness of potential outcomes from "forgetting" steps in a simple proceedure.

Yeah not really that big of an issue... Some safety sally's out there and people saying to not use the dangerously explosive polycarbonate product and use my product. ;)

I remember when i used to go on the Homebrewing subreddit heaps there was always someone in the USA every 3-4 months that would drop a glass carboy... and then post pics of the aftermath post emergency room with foot lacerations. Same thing right? no one is suing the carboy manufacturer.. (well, maybe they are, they tend to do that in america)
 
I remember when i used to go on the Homebrewing subreddit heaps there was always someone in the USA every 3-4 months that would drop a glass carboy... and then post pics of the aftermath post emergency room with foot lacerations. Same thing right? no one is suing the carboy manufacturer.. (well, maybe they are, they tend to do that in america)

My all time favourite in the suing mentality in the USA. Though not fact.
https://www.heraldtribune.com/news/...e-shows-truth-behind-frivolous-lawsuit-claims
 
The only trouble with instruction manuals is that they are written (I apologise for any politically incorrectness) in “Chinglish”
As a retired safety professional, maybe I’m from old school but I think we are “dumbing down” people and trying to explain everything to the nth degree and not allowing people to think for themselves
 
The only trouble with instruction manuals is that they are written (I apologise for any politically incorrectness) in “Chinglish”
As a retired safety professional, maybe I’m from old school but I think we are “dumbing down” people and trying to explain everything to the nth degree and not allowing people to think for themselves
Yes manuals like that irritate me too so we usually do them ourselves. Others we redo.

Of course authorities like to unload responsibility on to the supplier but the supplier should make sure that the things they sell fail safe or else prominently warn of what can happen.
 
I thought there was etiquette about other sponsors* not commenting on threads of rival companies.




*Unless they are doing it under a sneaky account they have created.
First off it isn't a competitors thread, its an open thread. As for sneaky account, who was you when you were previously on this forum?
Nothing constructive in any of your posts, only negative comments.
 
The only trouble with instruction manuals is that they are written (I apologise for any politically incorrectness) in “Chinglish”
As a retired safety professional, maybe I’m from old school but I think we are “dumbing down” people and trying to explain everything to the nth degree and not allowing people to think for themselves
You're not 'dumbing down people' - it's called good design.
Consumers know value proposition (consciously or unconsciously) when they see it, and if you let consumers work out it for themselves.. Well it's pretty clear to everyone you're importing gear from China without any idea of how your brand is percieved in the market.
 
Yeah not really that big of an issue... Some safety sally's out there and people saying to not use the dangerously explosive polycarbonate product and use my product. ;)

I remember when i used to go on the Homebrewing subreddit heaps there was always someone in the USA every 3-4 months that would drop a glass carboy... and then post pics of the aftermath post emergency room with foot lacerations. Same thing right? no one is suing the carboy manufacturer.. (well, maybe they are, they tend to do that in america)
I'm sorry I'm maybe your Safety Sally, but in my line of work (which I have doing for 45years), safety is of the utmost importance and always has been, no matter how minor if an injury can be prevented then it should be. Warning stickers say a lot more than a manual does.
 
The only trouble with instruction manuals is that they are written (I apologise for any politically incorrectness) in “Chinglish”
As a retired safety professional, maybe I’m from old school but I think we are “dumbing down” people and trying to explain everything to the nth degree and not allowing people to think for themselves
As a current Safety Professional (that should be retired), I partially agree.
However this particular hazard might not be that obvious to people who are not knowledgeable in the area of plastics.
You are also correct about the manuals, they tend to be a bit sparse and don’t read well. A warning label on the container is a perfectly reasonable fix! Afterall GF had Warning Hot Surface on an Urn!
And I used to have a warning label on my setup that read “WARNING Not to be operated by Fuckwits!”
Cheers
 
My fermzilla 27L is leaking from the "double threaded spigot" on the base of the vessel as per photo below. I have the conical rubber seal on the outside of the PET vessel with the threaded ring over the top.

It looks like the conical rubber seal might go inside the vessel as suggested by the first diagram on p.6 of the PDF below, but it's a nasty smelling rubber material that I wouldn't want in contact with my beer.

I've wasted my entire afternoon (and a lot of C02) doing leak tests, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

https://www.kegland.com.au/media/pdf/FermZilla Instructions for 27L and 55Lv2.pdf

fermzilla leak.jpg
 
My fermzilla 27L is leaking from the "double threaded spigot" on the base of the vessel as per photo below. I have the conical rubber seal on the outside of the PET vessel with the threaded ring over the top.

It looks like the conical rubber seal might go inside the vessel as suggested by the first diagram on p.6 of the PDF below, but it's a nasty smelling rubber material that I wouldn't want in contact with my beer.

I've wasted my entire afternoon (and a lot of C02) doing leak tests, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

https://www.kegland.com.au/media/pdf/FermZilla Instructions for 27L and 55Lv2.pdf

View attachment 117101

Rubber seal has to go on the inside.
 
It's likely I'm going to buy the FermZilla All-Rounder next week and I had a question re how others take samples for their hydrometer to check the FG during fermentation. So am I right in saying in order to get a sample I'd have to attach a CO2 bottle via the gas connector and then hook up a short line of tubing with say a pluto gun on the end in order to draw the beer out from the liquid connector?
This seems like a lot of work/effort just to get a reading of my FG, given my gas bottle is already used in my small kegerator and it's difficult to get at in my setup I'd then likely have to buy a second CO2 bottle which again seems like overkill.
Am I missing something, is there an easier way?
 
It's likely I'm going to buy the FermZilla All-Rounder next week and I had a question re how others take samples for their hydrometer to check the FG during fermentation. So am I right in saying in order to get a sample I'd have to attach a CO2 bottle via the gas connector and then hook up a short line of tubing with say a pluto gun on the end in order to draw the beer out from the liquid connector?
This seems like a lot of work/effort just to get a reading of my FG, given my gas bottle is already used in my small kegerator and it's difficult to get at in my setup I'd then likely have to buy a second CO2 bottle which again seems like overkill.
Am I missing something, is there an easier way?

If you’re fermenting under pressure, you’ll have enough to pull a sample.. I ferment at about 12-15psi and don’t have an issue. Just use a short beerline with bronco tap and disconnect

BUT I got a Tilt for Xmas so won’t have to do that any longer. But it’s good to have if you want to sample

You will need a bottle to do closed transfers.. I have the same issue lugging the big 6kg up and down to the garage for this so I’m going to get a second 2.6kg bottle
 
Yes, ok. Thanks.
I have an ispindel which works well so I only take the one reading right at the end before keg transfer to get an accurate FG.
Do you have it under pressure from day 1 of the fermentation or do you only close it part way through?
 
Do you have it under pressure from day 1 of the fermentation or do you only close it part way through?
I think it depends on what you are going for. I see some people are brewing it at low PSI (like 3 or 4) and just using the FZ for a pressure transfer to a purged keg. Others seem to be fermenting at a higher pressure and temperature with the theory that the pressure supreses the esters and allows a quicker ferment (esp with lagers).

Personally I top it up to 15 PSI straight after pitching and I set the spunding to 25 PSI and I ferment at ambient temps (about 20-25C here). I have used US-05, S-04 and BE-154 and they have all finished in 3-4 days with fairly high attenuation. I am very lazy at the moment and I think the FZ is great for that. I pitch on a FWK on Saturday, dry hop before work on Tuesday, cold crash on Friday night and keg it on Sunday.
 
Chesl73 I pretty much do the same as Pauly and it works a treat +1 for the Tilt as well, I setup my gas with a 4 way splitter with the fourth line long enough to reach the Fermzilla in the other fridge. I have a mini reg on a sodastream bottle which is handy, along with harvesting excess gas into a spare keg to use when cold crashing or cleaning etc.
 
Hey all dont know if this has been raised before but i need some help or suggestions. when it comes to dry hopping under pressure I set my spunding at 25psi so its carbed by the time i keg. I shut the butterfly valve and go to release the pressure slowly out of the pet screw lid on the collection jar. Twice the thing has blown off and hops have gone everywhere haha. Litterally a hop explosion. Dont know the best way to release the pressure in the collection jar to then add more hops for dry hopping.
 
Hey all dont know if this has been raised before but i need some help or suggestions. when it comes to dry hopping under pressure I set my spunding at 25psi so its carbed by the time i keg. I shut the butterfly valve and go to release the pressure slowly out of the pet screw lid on the collection jar. Twice the thing has blown off and hops have gone everywhere haha. Litterally a hop explosion. Dont know the best way to release the pressure in the collection jar to then add more hops for dry hopping.

Two suggestions:
Don't put your dry hops under 25 PSI and purge from headspace.
Bonus suggestion: dry hops once.
 
Hey all dont know if this has been raised before but i need some help or suggestions. when it comes to dry hopping under pressure I set my spunding at 25psi so its carbed by the time i keg. I shut the butterfly valve and go to release the pressure slowly out of the pet screw lid on the collection jar. Twice the thing has blown off and hops have gone everywhere haha. Litterally a hop explosion. Dont know the best way to release the pressure in the collection jar to then add more hops for dry hopping.
Originally posted 3/10/19. “An easy way to dry hop using a Fermzilla and keeping O2 out. If under pressure, release pressure via PRV. Remove gas post, don't worry, air won't enter, liquid will still be giving up CO2. Using a funnel add hops via the opening where the gas post was. Don't worry about releasing pressure, little carbonation will be lost. You can always add some extra CO2 if you wish. If not fermenting under pressure, connect a CO2 line to the liquid post, set regulator to minimum. Turn gas on until bubbles can be seen coming out the dip tube, remove gas post & dry hop. EASY.”
 


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