Dedicated Grainfather Guide, Problems and Solutions Thread

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That's just pure ingredients cost. You've got whirlfloc/moss if you choose to use it, plus cleaners, water, bottlecaps (if you use them) and electricity. Still, pretty damn cheap.
 
25kg bag of JW Trad - $39 - $1.56 per kg
25kg bag of JW Wheat - $39 - $1.56 per kg

Gee I would like to pay these prices for malt mate.... Im paying $ 60 a bag.
 
Darrens said:
25kg bag of JW Trad - $39 - $1.56 per kg
25kg bag of JW Wheat - $39 - $1.56 per kg

Gee I would like to pay these prices for malt mate.... Im paying $ 60 a bag.
They're bulk buy prices, from suppliers in and around Melbourne - specifically, from the Full Pint BB in Sept 2014. I didn't make the figures up.

Edit: I did however misquote the Wheat. Have edited the original post to add the $0.12 increase.
 
slcmorro said:
They're bulk buy prices, from suppliers in and around Melbourne - specifically, from the Full Pint BB in Sept 2014. I didn't make the figures up.

Edit: I did however misquote the Wheat. Have edited the original post to add the $0.12 increase.
Also note that they're the aussie malts - you'd pay a little more for imported varieties.

If you have access to a bulk buy in your area this is a great way to save money, even if you don't but you have a local supplier you should save on buying a sack of malt vs by the kilo for each batch.

I just but a sack or two locally now but I do remember buying the JW malts for that price when I lived in Sydney.
 
beersmith users....
just bought beersmith, and a few mentions here about gf profile on bs, which i can't find in equipment or mash profiles. any help appreciated.
 
Thanks guys, still paying $60 a sack I don't mind eh ... Still cheaper this way for me . Also just switched to AG with the grainfather and my own mill also , Im having fun!!!! and loving it!!!
 
butisitart said:
beersmith users....
just bought beersmith, and a few mentions here about gf profile on bs, which i can't find in equipment or mash profiles. any help appreciated.
You need to use the 'Add-ons' button.
 
i never never use OMG. it's cliche'd, hackneyed and american.
but......
OMG the Add-ons in beersmith looks bloody amazing!!!!!
lots of new toys to play with

cheers mckenry :D
 
I think I'm going to sell all my gear and buy a grainfather.. it's so compact compared to what I have now... and I need to move closer to the city and downsize..

Anyone not like there GF?
 
Alright - Victorians, get ready for an onslaught of equipment sales this weekend.
 
Did anyone mention that Merri Masher club members get 5% off at Full Pint? :)
 
Question.

I come from biab to grainfather. Biab 65%efficiency gf 90% and over.

I over sparge to compensate the added efficiency. Too lazy to add it in beersmith. I was told over sparging can cause of flavors. I havnt experienced none of these of flavours. Can you really over fly sparge on such a small batch of grain. I would of thought you would more get off flavours from batch sparging not fly
 
You can probably fly sparge down to 1010 safely, over sparging will eventually draw tanins (the off flavours you mentioned).
 
I haven't heard of tannin extraction being an issue in batch sparging. The runnings aren't thin enough and there is more pH buffering capacity in a batch than fly runnings.
 
mrsupraboy said:
Question.

I come from biab to grainfather. Biab 65%efficiency gf 90% and over.

I over sparge to compensate the added efficiency. Too lazy to add it in beersmith. I was told over sparging can cause of flavors. I havnt experienced none of these of flavours. Can you really over fly sparge on such a small batch of grain. I would of thought you would more get off flavours from batch sparging not fly
Just curious...why over sparge then? Why not sparge normally, then pull the mash out and add some top up water? Seems a pretty easy problem to solve?
 
carniebrew said:
Just curious...why over sparge then? Why not sparge normally, then pull the mash out and add some top up water? Seems a pretty easy problem to solve?
Ditto. I just top up to 28L after sparge is done.

If you always top up to 28L pre-boil, once you're sure of your usual/average efficiency you can enter that efficiency % into BeerSmith and you'll be hitting every gravity and volume target in no time.
 
SimoB said:
I think I'm going to sell all my gear and buy a grainfather.. it's so compact compared to what I have now... and I need to move closer to the city and downsize..

Anyone not like there GF?
The main thing is getting your mill setting to suit the GF and read the instructions then adjust how you currently brew to suit the grainfather. Best to have a second vessel to heat your sparge water, although I have used a 5L jug, hot water from the tap and a kettle to do sparge water on the run.
 
I put a Red IPA made using my GF into our club comp last Sunday. It finished 7th out of 26 entries, and the common theme amongst all the score sheets was "slightly astringent", and a couple mentioned a roasty character, which is curious given it was ale malt with a little special B and a tiny bit of midnight wheat for colour. Looking up astringency, it seems it can be brought on by over-milling the grain, sparging too hot, or mash pH issues. I'll pay attention to all of these things, but just wondering if anyone's noticed anything similar in their GF beers?
 

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