As a complete novice, I have no basis for this next statement but, I cannot see how removing rhizomes and forcing them to grow a new root system would ever be beneficial for crop yields?seehuusen said:Spoke to a couple of people about a way to handle rhizomes for us qlders, and the general consensus was that the fridge would simulate the colder months perfectly and give better growth the following season.
6 to 8 weeks at that 5C mark would simulate the ground temperature at the relative latitude for those living in Vic/Taz areas.
Also, just so that other people can draw from this, to store them in the fridge, pop them in the veggie section.
The rhizomes should be wrapped in wet news paper and into a shopping bag to keep some of that moisture. I have it on good authority that this has stored viable rhizomes for up to 2 years!
I'm not sure if it is necessary to do it each year, but I guess next year I'll be able to split up my rhizomes and leave some in the ground and some in the fridge and compare that
Cheers for everyone's input, much appreciated :super:
edit: just added some clarification to my text...
Assuming the pots contain the same variety of rhizomes, all good. If they are different rhizomes then 2 metres minimum gap, 3+ if you can. Otherwise you'll spend the growing season trying, in vain, to keep them apart. You won't be able to differentiate the cones of different varieties.Matplat said:Well, as the thread title asks, here it is! Reckon it will be ready for a brew next weekend?
Pretty excited, thanks to Hoppy2b for the rhizomes to make it happen. When the time comes i will put one post between each pair of pots and run a cord from each pot up to the shared post.
The rhizomes had a fair few shoots on them some of which were pretty long (5cm), also the soil that i prepared the day before was seriously warm when i planted them and the forecast at least for the next week is reasonably warm. What happens if shoots break the surface already? Growing season starts early?
Cheers, Matt
Thanks for the advice Dr, there are 3 varities in pairs of pots, I am planning on putting a single post in the middle (and a bit behind) each pair which will support the twine from both of the pots so each variety will grow towards its mate and away from its foreign neighbour.DrSmurto said:Assuming the pots contain the same variety of rhizomes, all good. If they are different rhizomes then 2 metres minimum gap, 3+ if you can. Otherwise you'll spend the growing season trying, in vain, to keep them apart. You won't be able to differentiate the cones of different varieties.
I've got Victoria and Chinook planted 5 metres apart and by the end of the season they meet up despite my best efforts. They may not be classified as weeds but they have many of the traits.
The bines will grow up but all the cones are formed on side shoots which you will have to manually train up and away from each other. They'll become entangled in a big mess. So it depends on how much of your time you want to spend each day during the vigorous growing season (where bines can grow 30cm in a single day), making sure the different varieties are kept apart.Matplat said:Thanks for the advice Dr, there are 3 varities in pairs of pots, I am planning on putting a single post in the middle (and a bit behind) each pair which will support the twine from both of the pots so each variety will grow towards its mate and away from its foreign neighbour.
Do you think this will prevent the problem?
Cheers, Matt
Looking good Matlap, that is definitely a hop shoot. A lot of people say to cover them up or chop them off but I like to leave them as is.Matplat said:So just went out to water the plants for their weekly feed, and this is what i saw, it looks suspiciously like a hop bine?
If it is, should i let the season start early or snip it off?
Cheers, Matt
Enter your email address to join: