Yeasts You Really Don't Like

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Windsor dry yeast. I brewed an IPA last year with it, beautiful malt profile and then the finish was bananery and non-flocculating soup. I was gutted.
 
Another one which many don't like is the Wyeast American Ale II, 1272. I really like this yeast, but many find it too nutty or something. For me, it doesn't strip the beer of body like US-05 can do, and is an excellent beer for loads of different styles. :chug:

Been using 1272 for a run of APAs and AIPAs recently and really love the extra dimension this yeast gives.

Got a double batch of the golden ale in primary using this yeast so will be able to comment directly on how it goes in this beer.

I also think Nottingham is overrated - quick and a good floccer but has a reverse randall effect on flavour
 
I've found Wlp300 to be a bit of a slow starter, fine once it gets going though.... now i tend to harvest trub to avoid the starter building process from the test tubes....much faster kick off...
 
t2000kw
checkout craftbrewer in australia.

Thanks!!!

At first I thought it wasn't there, then I searched the page text for 97 and found it under CraftBrewer German Ale (Twin Pack 2 x 12gm).

Now I have to find out from them how much shipping wold cost to see if it's worth getting, and if so, how many I'd need to buy to make it worth the extra shipping from there to here.

But not having to buy a large brick of it may make it worth getting!

Donald
 
for some mreason i just dont like belgian abbey II 1762 just gives a weird flavour i can't stand on the other hand 1388 i love and yet to try 3787 which i hear is awsome
 
I found Wyeast 1028 London Ale to be Uber minerally... that was before i was doing wter additions. It was like there was a crapload of minerally carbonates in the beer. Wasnt much of a fan. Might try it again in the future but not anytime soon.

Having the exact same experience with this yeast now. Mineral profile is overwhelming and giving the porter I'm doing a much much dryer feel than I wanted. I believe that Mountain Goat (and other breweries) use this yeast a lot, and although it's been ages since I had one of their beers, I'm sure they keep this characteristic under control.
Anyone got a tip for controlling the mineral profile of 1028?
 
Thanks!!!

At first I thought it wasn't there, then I searched the page text for 97 and found it under CraftBrewer German Ale (Twin Pack 2 x 12gm).

Now I have to find out from them how much shipping wold cost to see if it's worth getting, and if so, how many I'd need to buy to make it worth the extra shipping from there to here.

But not having to buy a large brick of it may make it worth getting!

Donald

I've tried K97 once ancd hated it. but that was my own fault. I was trying to make a Koelsh, put it in the fermenter, then got called to Whyalla (well away from home) for work for the week. When i came back, the beer was sitting at 26C, and i was pissed off.

It ended up tasting like a bad banana smoothy. I kept it in the keg for ages, but it never became palatible, so i ended up tipping it out.

I'm guessing it's meant to be fermented at 16-18. What kind of profile does it bring when used properly?

Cheers
al
 
I think I just found a source in the US. I have to confirm that they actually have it in stock.

It wasn't all that long ago that the former company which made the Safale products (before Fermentis bought them out) discontinued selling the small packets of this yeast. Looks like Fermentis saw the demand and added it back to their product line (the small packets, that is).
 
Obviously all yeasts suit a particular beer, Not style but beer, specific to an area, water and ingredients, those beers are at the very root of the strain availability we have today. Understanding yeast strains is part of the art of brewing. Use Nott in a pale, low gravity or lightly bittered beer and you will hate it. It will finish way too low and scrub out the hop aroma and provide very little in esters, you will end up with a watery bitter bland beer. Windsor is a great choice for an ordinary bitter, the low attenuation allows the beer to finish with some body and it produces esters which pair so well with English hop varieties. Using a low attenuating yeast such as this in a big beer is not going to produce a balanced beer. Balance is what brewing is all about, think about balance right from the outset in your recipe, begin with the FG you want to achieve then select a few yeast strains with suitable characteristics for the style depending on whether you want yeast, malt or hops to the fore......then check it's attenuative ability. Adjust your grist bill according to your efficiency to produce an OG which will finish at your desired FG given the attenuative ability of the yeast you have chosen. Pitch at the recommended pitching rate and ferment within the fermentation temperature range for the yeast............. then after tasting it decide if you want to stress the yeast by adjusting fermentation temperatures or by altering pitching rates to fine tune the results to your liking. Piece a piss, this brewing game eh!


Don't hate any yeast strains..........however there are some I like more than others :lol:

Cheers,

Screwy
 
Couldn't agree more Michael - I also believe brewers at times can be a bit quick to blame a yeast type for a poorly made beer. Every beer yeast on the market, wet or dry, is IMO capable of making a Gold Medal beer - As you said, it's all about balance & understanding your ingredients. :)

cheers Ross...
 
Having the exact same experience with this yeast now. Mineral profile is overwhelming and giving the porter I'm doing a much much dryer feel than I wanted. I believe that Mountain Goat (and other breweries) use this yeast a lot, and although it's been ages since I had one of their beers, I'm sure they keep this characteristic under control.
Anyone got a tip for controlling the mineral profile of 1028?

Yeah, temperature of the fermentation. I found that if 1028 is fermented at 18-20C the mineral profile is really pronounced. Fermented at 22C, there's less of the mineral profile and more fruity esters (obviously). This is in my experience anyway. I quite like 1028, but it does take some experimentation to get right.

James
 
WB-06 & US-05 or 56 as it was once known, & anything that is Wyeast.
My big beef with Wyeast is not really product related more packaging. It shouldn't be called a smack pack if it can't take a good smack.
Cheers
Gerard
 
S-04. Not keen. Ive used it some in mine and tasted others brews who have used it. Just not keen.

cheers
Andrew.
 
S-04. Not keen. Ive used it some in mine and tasted others brews who have used it. Just not keen.

cheers
Andrew.

Get yourself down to Canberra and check out the Wig and Pen... You'll be amazed at what Richard can do with s-04.
 
Mantis i would go halves :) i eat the stuff for breakfast....
I'm sure there are better yeasts out there i just haven't needed them yet!
 
I have been wrestling with 1318 for a few months... haven't got close to the ester style I am after, and it is very erratic in behaviour. The search continues for a house yeast. Next batting is 1026, though with serious consideration regarding availability.
 
I have been wrestling with 1318 for a few months... haven't got close to the ester style I am after, and it is very erratic in behaviour. The search continues for a house yeast. Next batting is 1026, though with serious consideration regarding availability.

I've had some success with this yeast.

An all williamette special bitter, an all challenger IPA and then my latest variation on Warrens 4 shades of stout.

Great yeast for beers that don't require massive amounts of esters. High attenuation, very good flocculator - i didnt use gelatine with this yeast.

That said, i wont be using it very often, prefer the ester packed ringwood and wet yorkshire.
 
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