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I do the same when I am not carbonating - both times it happened after I added fresh kegs and hooked them up to carbonate. I would have thought I'd be able to hear it a well, and I could have sworn I checked the duotight connections - but in the morning on both occasions a gentle pull actually removed the hose from one of he two new disconnects. (I am pushing them all the way in to the second click).

Don't know if I am doing something wrong with the duotights, or maybe worth replacing some of the connectors but I hadn't expected it to be so easy for gas to leak with this kind of setup as seems very widely used. Def could be a me issue.
I recently lost a bout a litre of beer through a leaking disconnect on liquid post.
Actually was not a problem with the disconnect. I thought it was probably a bad o-ring but when I went to replace it I found the problem was the machining of the post; I removed a sliver of steel (like a very thin, broken ring) which had not been cleaned off after manufacture.
 
Just brewed an Altbier it's fermenting away at 16C, got myself another Maxi, bargain at the moment $199!
IMG_1601.JPG
 
I just bottled an (alleged) APA (13.5L). First use of the new bottling gun. Didn’t carbonate the beer; primed the bottles for bottle conditioning.
Newfangled contraption went ok. Probably better than the old bottling wand and spigot. Either that or I’m just blowing a bit of CO2 into bottles for fun. I wonder if I’ll notice any difference.

I have a Dry Irish Stout (11L) on the bench, day 5.
Mainly I’m growing WLP004 for some more projects, but I’m still looking forward to having a ~4% Stout available. Reverted back to the old ‘classic styles’ series book by Michael Lewis (although the recipe section is all from Ashton ‘Mr Wizard’ Lewis). Nothing very remarkable in it but I took his advice and chopped up the flaked barley in a blender.
 
I have a bottling gun, but sadly I have not used it yet (10 years of dust). Interested to hear how your process went. I have a local guy just starting out wants to bottle.

My last Irish stout was developed from beer junkies on YouTube.
I do enjoy a clean stout and 004 is that indeed. I use 004 on a red Irish ale and then move it to a stout. Two birds one stone sort of thing.
 
I need to sort out the ‘time and motion’ aspect a little better. I set up the gun with a bit more line length than I really need but better too much than not enough.
I used a 4 litre oxebar keg to help me sanitise the beer line and purge the gas lines. That was fairly straightforward.
I used a demijohn as a resting place for the gun when I needed to set it aside.
I had a jam pan to hold my bottles as I filled them. The process was actually pretty clean but there’s always scope for a bit of spillage.
I set gas pressure to about 3psi, gave the bottles around 8 seconds gas (no idea if that’s enough or overkill) then filled with beer. The beer wasn’t totally flat as I used a spunding valve during fermentation. Consequently there was a little bit of foam. More than I’m used to, but bugger-all really.
Next time I might try bottling carbonated beer. I expect that might be more exciting. As an experience this was not really so different to bottling with a wand and spigot. Just more complicated with the hoses, and hand got a bit sore holding the trigger but that’s arthritis. Hopefully the CO2 injection into the bottle serves some beneficial purpose.

I’m planning to do a bottled Irish Extra Stout with 004. Haven’t used the yeast for decades and have almost forgotten what it’s like but thought I’d try it in a few small batches of various styles.
Irish Red is a style I think I’ve never attempted. I’ll probably do a Northern Brown, but now you’ve mentioned it I’m thinking about the IRA as a possibility.
 
Great way to sanitize and store bottle gun during your process.
I have no cold storage for the bottles, I have a small shed in the back yard that gets so hot in summer.
Crash chilling after ferment and allowing the beer to heat up again just feels wrong for me.
 
My recent brew is an India Pale Lager extremely highly hopped with a low ABV 70+ IBU of Noble hops and again a fermentation temperature of 16C. The yeast is Mangrove Jack California lager yeast.
Very green wort due to hops another 100 gram to go in for a 30 minute hop stand.
IMG_1604.JPG

Shooting for 1,038 so close enough.
IMG_1605.JPG

And taking off quite nicely.
IMG_1606.JPG
 
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Have been watching Four Priests Brewery on YouTube over the last couple of years, and decided to have a crack at Andy’s British Golden Ale (Summer Ale?) ‘Murgy Straight’. Had to adjust the grain bill slightly to account for local availability of course. Also, I couldn’t make his water profile unless I used chalk, and that’s too much chemistry for me.
OG (planned) 1.041 (actual; 1.042)
Predicted FG 1.009 (recipe 1.006)
Grain:
70.4% Fawcett Golden Promise
19.1% Simpson’s Maris Otter
7.7% Joe White Wheat Malt
2.8% JW Caramalt
Mash Temp 65° x 60 minutes
Mash pH 5.36

Boil 1 hour
Boil additions:
20 minutes
4.9 IBU Talus, 5.4 IBU Citra
10 minutes
5.6 Talus, 5.3 Citra
Hopstand 30 minutes at 78°
28g Talus, 14g Citra

Yeast: Bluestone San Diego
ferment at 19° 10 days, then drop to 4° for remaining 4 days.

Dry hop day 5:
24g Talus, 34g Citra
Hops stay in until racking ie at day 14.

Managed to water the garden with most of the water from the chiller. Had everything cleaned up and put away before 3pm. Walked the dog 1 hour ie during the mash, made a loaf of bread incorporating a cup of grain from the mash, and watered the veggie patch all while brewing a batch of beer. I felt quite virtuous.
The gravity sample tastes very good. Hopefully I can keep the rest of the process on track.
 
I was in the UK throughout September and had a few impressive beers one of which was Blue Monkey Big Sips a 4% IPA. I cobbled something together when I got back no notes, I just altered an old recipe.
This is on the list to brew in a week or so, tomorrow I am brewing the Stone & Wood recipe but have moved the hops to the 15 minute mark.
So the Big Sips. What I have come up with is this recipe.
Three Wise Monkeys IPA
OG 1,041 FG 1,010 ABV 4.1% IBU 44.7 SRM 5.5 Mash pH 5.4
4.3 kg Veloria Schooner
0.5 kg Weyermann Pilsner
0.150 Weyerman Carapils (mash out)

30g Brewers Gold (5.2 AA) 60 mins Boil
25g Brewers Gold 30 mins Boil
20g Brewers Gold 10 mins
25g Brewers Gold Hop stand 20 mins. The IBU's stated are Tinseth The brewery claims the IBU is 39 so I came somewhere in between Alchemy Overlord and Tinsth to end up with 44.7.
1732671793032.png
 
I need to sort out the ‘time and motion’ aspect a little better. I set up the gun with a bit more line length than I really need but better too much than not enough.
I used a 4 litre oxebar keg to help me sanitise the beer line and purge the gas lines. That was fairly straightforward.
I used a demijohn as a resting place for the gun when I needed to set it aside.
I had a jam pan to hold my bottles as I filled them. The process was actually pretty clean but there’s always scope for a bit of spillage.
I set gas pressure to about 3psi, gave the bottles around 8 seconds gas (no idea if that’s enough or overkill) then filled with beer. The beer wasn’t totally flat as I used a spunding valve during fermentation. Consequently there was a little bit of foam. More than I’m used to, but bugger-all really.
Next time I might try bottling carbonated beer. I expect that might be more exciting. As an experience this was not really so different to bottling with a wand and spigot. Just more complicated with the hoses, and hand got a bit sore holding the trigger but that’s arthritis. Hopefully the CO2 injection into the bottle serves some beneficial purpose.

I’m planning to do a bottled Irish Extra Stout with 004. Haven’t used the yeast for decades and have almost forgotten what it’s like but thought I’d try it in a few small batches of various styles.
Irish Red is a style I think I’ve never attempted. I’ll probably do a Northern Brown, but now you’ve mentioned it I’m thinking about the IRA as a possibility.

Love the little 'odd' process tips that just make the difference with having a efficient and clean work space there mate. Am just moving into the 'bottling and moving around from/and with keg' space myself.
 
Great way to sanitize and store bottle gun during your process.
I have no cold storage for the bottles, I have a small shed in the back yard that gets so hot in summer.
Crash chilling after ferment and allowing the beer to heat up again just feels wrong for me.

All my beer storage (HB and commercial) is under house, an open area (with slatted walls - old style defence force/housing commission) with concrete pad that formerly was intended to park a car but wasnt feasible, surrounded by open soil. Keep it as far down the back as I can and under stuff/work desk to protect from direct/diffused sunlight. Havent had any issues so far with beer going 'off' other than through my own brewing hits and misses.
 
, and that’s too much chemistry for me.

How do you find your brew consistency goes, I've been frustrated with that in the past and going as far as a rudimentary and necessary water chemistry basic level has made a massive difference to sort out that aspect of my beer quality. And running my house tap water for brewing through a inline caravan water filter alongside this.
 
How do you find your brew consistency goes, I've been frustrated with that in the past and going as far as a rudimentary and necessary water chemistry basic level has made a massive difference to sort out that aspect of my beer quality. And running my house tap water for brewing through a inline caravan water filter alongside this.
Pretty good. When I started brewing all grain batches I decided I needed to understand a bit more about water chemistry. I used bru’n water for a while. I learned most of what I think I know there. Now I rely on the calculator in Brewfather.

Andy’s recommendation for Murgy Straight i.e.
“Your target water profile should be English Ale.
Ca 52, Mg 10, Na 6, Cl 10, SO4 65, HCO3 126” is not achievable with my usual approach. I can do it theoretically with chalk but I’m not sure of the assumptions used by the Brewfather calculator, so I’m not using chalk.

I chased the Ca and Mg, and ended up with about 50:120 for Cl and sulphate. I reckon that’ll be fine.

Our water here is very soft and low mineralisation. Just fluctuates a bit with the chlorine level. I replaced the pipe from mains to the house recently and that’s really helped. No more flakes of rust.
 
Brewed Foreign Extra Stout yesterday.
Pitched the WLP004 yeast harvested from Dry Irish Stout.

Recipe predicted OG 1.073.
I had 1.07, with an extra litre into FV. Screwed up somewhere on the volume, probably drew too much sparge water. I’m pretty happy with 75% mash efficiency from a 6.5kg grist on the little Brewzilla (3.1.1)

Base recipe calls for
69% Maris Otter
12% Crisp Chocolate Malt
8% Rolled Oats
6% Muscovado sugar
5% CaraAroma
Mashed at 65° for 75 minutes
60 minute boil.
Single addition Magnum to 50 IBU
OG 1.072

Have brewed this with Carafa Special 2 and WLP007, which was rather good.
Brewed it again in May 24, with Crisp Chocolate, Special B and S-04 yeast.
I did not like this one as much.

This time I’ve used a mix of roasted malts: Gladfield Light Chocolate, Carafa Sp3 and Sp1. For the crystal element I’ve used a mix of Special B and Crisp dark crystal (reported as 169°L).
I haven’t really been a fan of the foam in the previous 2 efforts, and I’m not sold on the use of oats in brewing anyway, so I’ve replaced the oats with a mix of torrified wheat and malted wheat.
I only had about half of the required amount of Muscovado, so I used some Rapadura for the rest.
And I’m using WLP004.
So probably hopelessly muddled but the wort tasted good.
Pitched yeast about 1pm. Went down to fill the airlock around 6am today and was a small battle to get the liquid in past the escaping gas. I think the yeast pitch was adequate. It’s made about 4cm of barm in under 18 hours.
I don’t usually harvest yeast from beers as strong as this, but I might have a go at top-cropping this one if that holds up well tomorrow.
 
Often thought about this when brewing finally got around to trying it. As I do full volume of liquor in the mash I don't have a lautering efficiency so I just count this as a sort of lauter.
This has about 35kg pressing the top of the grain after I have left the grain basket in situ to drain as much as possible.
IMG_1638.JPG


After about 10-15 minutes of compressing the grain using my weight as well as the 35kg in the two drums I weighed the spent grain in the grain basket.
IMG_1639.JPG
9.27kg. Less the weight of the grain basket 2.5kg =6.77kg less the weight of the grain before mashing 5.10kg =1.77kg which gives me a loss to grain of about 0,33kg per litre?
 

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