Professional beer tester
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- Joined
- 21/4/13
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If your university has any of those plastic water-cooler bottles, a bung and airlock works great too.
Yah bottles seem to be the sticking point that I can't seem to get around. Buying slabs then filling them is a good idea except then I'd have to incorporate a capper of some sort into my calculations. Also considering these guys will have never brewed in their lives I dunno how comfy I feel with them priming in glass. I'd hate to have bottle bombs wreak havoc all over the campusTex083 said:Bottles can get expensive, if you want to brake up the costs, make the work and start the ferment, drink 2 slabs of VB/coopers long necks and fill them with your uni-made beer!
That way you get to drink the brought beer while you wait for ferment to finish.
Grolsh bottles are also awesome but I'd still worry about bottle bombs. I think the best way to minimise on costs would be for them to prime and condition in 1.5 litre cola bottles. They can re-use the lids and I don't think they'll have any issues finishing the bottles in one sitting hahaha we are uni students by the way.slash22000 said:Best bottles are those Grolsch sorts that have a swing top. You don't have to **** around buying a capper and caps, you just flick the lid on.
I love that idea!Professional beer tester said:If your university has any of those plastic water-cooler bottles, a bung and airlock works great too.
Stupid question but how does one sanitise cling wrap?slash22000 said:Just cover any opening with sanitised cling wrap and get a good size rubber o-ring around the outside to keep it on. It means you can see inside as well, if you're interested in that kind of thing.
I'd stay WELL clear of wine bottles for beer - they're not designed for carbonated beverages. If you over-do your priming, you're gonna end-up with glass grenades. NOT a good idea at all. Plastic screw-tops (PET) are fine to start-off with, as long as you keep them dark, whilst you collect empty beer bottles & save-up for a capper.wine bottles are best for storage due to light and easy enough to source.
As JDW said, there's little chance of there being nasties on there as is, but even just as a precaution, I always spray the underside (beer side) with some starsan before use.jollster101 said:Stupid question but how does one sanitise cling wrap?
Any bottle over primed is dangerous. Wine bottles might not be designed for carb but the glass is just as thick as most beer bottles. I used them for a long time without a single bomb. I only recommended it as a free source of 750ml bottles, most people drink beer from stubbies. When I put the call out for wine bottles I had all the free "longnecks" I needed in a couple of weeks. My main problem was some screwtop lids don't reseal well for carbed beer, maybe one in 20 was a dud.MartinOC said:I'd stay WELL clear of wine bottles for beer - they're not designed for carbonated beverages. If you over-do your priming, you're gonna end-up with glass grenades. NOT a good idea at all. Plastic screw-tops (PET) are fine to start-off with, as long as you keep them dark, whilst you collect empty beer bottles & save-up for a capper.
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