I've got the 14 gal version as well and it is the perfect size for filling two 19l kegs. Have done anything from 25l-40l batches in it without issue.Brownsworthy said:Only 1 single of 25l and I didn't notice any ill effects and kegged and bottled approx 21l.
I looked at the 64l but decided the 54l would be best as I aim for 46-50l and wanted to do the odd single batch as well.
Best of luck with finding whats best for your needs I know the 54l suits me to a T.
Cheers
so how did you go with the passivation? Did you use the TSP cleaner?forshoa said:I've got the 14 gal version as well and it is the perfect size for filling two 19l kegs. Have done anything from 25l-40l batches in it without issue.
I'm sure you'll be happy with any size Chronical. They are a great bit of kit.
Yep....used the TSP as has been outlined in previous discussion threads.2much2spend said:so how did you go with the passivation? Did you use the TSP cleaner?
Grainer said:Think Clever brewing is getting them in
I have it on good authority from that smartarsed prick..erm.... "Clever Brewing Bloke" that the 14Gal. ones are still being produced & Clever Brewing is expecting 6 of them to be delivered in one massive shipment (anyone need 27 Brewmaster buckets??), but it's likely to be a few months away if you're willing to wait.DJ_L3ThAL said:Fermented any single size batches in it and had any grief or gripes?
I've asked around and there are no 14gal actually in stock anywhere at the moment. Happy to be patient if it means I get the best size for my needs [emoji3]
can I ask where you got the tsp from?forshoa said:Yep....used the TSP as has been outlined in previous discussion threads.
Despite how clean it looked when unboxed, the TSP solution was grey after I stripped it all down for a good scrub and soak.
Followed that with a passivation soak in a strong Star San solution.
I've had it in service for about 18 months now, say 15 brews, and it hasn't skipped a beat.
Link - https://www.bunnings.com.au/cleaner-all-purpose-2-2kg-tricleanium_p16700212much2spend said:can I ask where you got the tsp from?
+1 for Bunnings. Was as easy as that.blair said:
Because yeast, when flocced, is quite a thick sludge, I find it is quite hard to dump all the yeast. No matter how many times I dump the yeast on a batch, there is still a thin layer that sticks to the cone, built up on anything protruding, stuck in the dump valve etc. so I don't think you would have great success transferring from the dump valve. If you are filtering, it may be worth trying once though.Lethaldog said:I'm looking into buying one of the beauties at the moment, I've been brewing in plastic for years and thought it was about time to treat myself to some shiny kit, just a couple of Q's as I'm looking at the 17G/64L I'll be spending $1000+ so 1st question is it worth it/ are they that good? Also if you were to remove the yeast cake before cold crashing would there be any reason you couldn't transfer to the keg etc from the bottom tap as to avoid loss or would you have to make a longer racking tube?
Last one, how many of you that have them use co2 to transfer from it and were the parts for that easy to aquire?
Cheers
Leigh
Hey razz, it’s the design of the ss brewtech micro type sight glass that uses o-rings (see photos). I’ll check if some flat washers will work but it still seems like a lot of force on the glass to get a seal that can withstand the turning force when opening the butterfly valve too.
So Im thinking of making sure my whirlpool hose is long enough to reach the fermenter so once Ive reached temperature I can connect the hose to the racking arm valve and use the valve to throttle the flow slowly into the fermenter.
I use an oxygen bottle and airstone but I suppose every little bit helps. I dont have the FTSS lid but I can still just clamp the 1/2 inch hose to the top with the rubber airlock bung removed.Yeast likes to be pitched into well oxygenated wort.
One way to help achieve this is by splashing your wort in vigorously. Attach a 1/2” TC barb to the lid and pump it up via that. If using the FTSS flat lid, the airlock hole is perfectly sized to hold the end of a 1/2” silicon tube securely. Your wort will burble about and foam up, mixing in lots of air.
Pays to try to refrain from opening the lid too much to check the level. Best to know the post boil volume beforehand.
is the distributor based in Brisbane ?Ask the distributor newera
Yep, I've posted my build at the other place - do a Google search for "Dry hop airlock for pressurised FV" and you'll find it. The principal is sound, but my experience was that 1.5" butterfly valves have too small an aperture for hop pellets to fall through. 2" or above sounds like it'll work, certainly my 4" version did. Otherwise perhaps a full-bore valve like a ball valve if you're stuck with 1.5".Howdy brewers. Has anyone setup a dry hop chamber for their Chronical with O2 purge? I was thinking of getting a 1.5"butterfly valve and connecting it to the lid. Then on top of that fit a 1.5"sight glass and finally the 1.5" Pressurised transfer fitting as shown in my post above (No 113)
So when I first pitch yeast I would connect a hose to the barb on the Pressurised transfer fitting and use as my blow off tube and the butterfly valve would be open. When Im ready to dry hop I close the valve, remove the PT fitting and fill the sight glass chamber with hops. Fit the PT fitting again and connect the hose to gas then purge a few times to get rid of any O2 and open the valve to drop the hops in.
Anyone done something similar to this?
EDIT:- Sight glass probably isnt needed I suppose as you dont need to see your hops and tube is $17.97 on ebay vs $54.89 for sight glass.