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Ss Brewtech "Chronical" 7 Gallon Conical Fermenter

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I pussy footed around for a bit. Umming and arrrr-ing between the 54L and the 64L. In the end I thought that it's easier to under fill rather than over fill. I went the 64L.
 
Brownsworthy said:
Only 1 single of 25l and I didn't notice any ill effects and kegged and bottled approx 21l.

I looked at the 64l but decided the 54l would be best as I aim for 46-50l and wanted to do the odd single batch as well.

Best of luck with finding whats best for your needs I know the 54l suits me to a T.

Cheers
I've got the 14 gal version as well and it is the perfect size for filling two 19l kegs. Have done anything from 25l-40l batches in it without issue.

I'm sure you'll be happy with any size Chronical. They are a great bit of kit.
 
forshoa said:
I've got the 14 gal version as well and it is the perfect size for filling two 19l kegs. Have done anything from 25l-40l batches in it without issue.

I'm sure you'll be happy with any size Chronical. They are a great bit of kit.
so how did you go with the passivation? Did you use the TSP cleaner?
 
2much2spend said:
so how did you go with the passivation? Did you use the TSP cleaner?
Yep....used the TSP as has been outlined in previous discussion threads.

Despite how clean it looked when unboxed, the TSP solution was grey after I stripped it all down for a good scrub and soak.

Followed that with a passivation soak in a strong Star San solution.

I've had it in service for about 18 months now, say 15 brews, and it hasn't skipped a beat.
 
Grainer said:
Think Clever brewing is getting them in

DJ_L3ThAL said:
Fermented any single size batches in it and had any grief or gripes?

I've asked around and there are no 14gal actually in stock anywhere at the moment. Happy to be patient if it means I get the best size for my needs [emoji3]
I have it on good authority from that smartarsed prick..erm.... "Clever Brewing Bloke" that the 14Gal. ones are still being produced & Clever Brewing is expecting 6 of them to be delivered in one massive shipment (anyone need 27 Brewmaster buckets??), but it's likely to be a few months away if you're willing to wait.

Shoot them a support email about it & you'll go on a "priority-contact-list" for when they're in stock. ;)
 
forshoa said:
Yep....used the TSP as has been outlined in previous discussion threads.

Despite how clean it looked when unboxed, the TSP solution was grey after I stripped it all down for a good scrub and soak.

Followed that with a passivation soak in a strong Star San solution.

I've had it in service for about 18 months now, say 15 brews, and it hasn't skipped a beat.
can I ask where you got the tsp from?
 
I'm looking into buying one of the beauties at the moment, I've been brewing in plastic for years and thought it was about time to treat myself to some shiny kit, just a couple of Q's as I'm looking at the 17G/64L I'll be spending $1000+ so 1st question is it worth it/ are they that good? Also if you were to remove the yeast cake before cold crashing would there be any reason you couldn't transfer to the keg etc from the bottom tap as to avoid loss or would you have to make a longer racking tube?
Last one, how many of you that have them use co2 to transfer from it and were the parts for that easy to aquire?
Cheers
Leigh
 
Hi
I have the Chronical7. Paid around $500 odd some time back and then probably another 400 upgrading valves to butterfly and the T piece on top sample valve glass yiew port on top and glass sight tube on the bottom. Oh and then there was the fridge and brewpi for more.

Well over a grand all up.

Is there better, probably but at the time it made a good 50th birthday present to myself.

It is just soo very much better than the plastic fermenters. I love the conical bottom and the sanitary fittings. But the ball taps are rubbish as like all ball valves they have voids so would need stripping every time and are still an infection risk.

I also bought the sanitary version of the racking arm.

On the positive it is a breeze to clean just a wipe and is clean. A real pleasure to use with no infection or tainting from previous brews.

I will never go back to plastic.

Was thinking of getting a second or a bigger one but reduced my drinking a bit so at this time will stick with what I have.

I do use CO2 to transfer to keg but also gravity as these are not pressure vessels and any more than 1 or 2 psi will warp the lid and leak. I have never over pressured mine and it is still good seal.

I use a blow off in a jug of starsan but am still planning improvements with low pressure purge type regulator and some other things like a camera down the top sight tube and other plumbing changes. I am building up my sanitary fitting collection. Many bits out of China and some out of the USA.

James
Zwitter.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Where did you source your parts from, I was looking on the SS Brewtech site and it didn't seem like they deliver anywhere else but America? If/when I get one I was looking at getting leg extensions and the bottom sight glass and a few other bits
 
Lethaldog said:
I'm looking into buying one of the beauties at the moment, I've been brewing in plastic for years and thought it was about time to treat myself to some shiny kit, just a couple of Q's as I'm looking at the 17G/64L I'll be spending $1000+ so 1st question is it worth it/ are they that good? Also if you were to remove the yeast cake before cold crashing would there be any reason you couldn't transfer to the keg etc from the bottom tap as to avoid loss or would you have to make a longer racking tube?
Last one, how many of you that have them use co2 to transfer from it and were the parts for that easy to aquire?
Cheers
Leigh
Because yeast, when flocced, is quite a thick sludge, I find it is quite hard to dump all the yeast. No matter how many times I dump the yeast on a batch, there is still a thin layer that sticks to the cone, built up on anything protruding, stuck in the dump valve etc. so I don't think you would have great success transferring from the dump valve. If you are filtering, it may be worth trying once though.
 
Any Chronical owners using the MICRO sight glass (threaded type)? I’m having trouble with one of mine installing it at the bottom of the cone, then the 1.5” 90 degree elbow piece and then a 1.5” butterfly valve. It appears to take the weight OK but the issue is operating the valve I need to be super careful as the thread on the micro sight glass spins and it could spin and leak which would make an awful mess.

Lucky I mainly only need to use this after I’ve kegged and Im harvesting the yeast, but lately I have been dumping a little bit of trub in the first day or two of fermenting.

If I tighten the micro sight glass more to avoid it spinning when installed it pushes the o-ring out... seems a bit of a silly design if it can’t be used where I’m trying. A flat silicone washer might be better in this situation? Anyone had any luck playing around with it?

Attached some photos of the first one is how I’d like to put the sight glass and second my latest batch where I just couldn’t get it tight enough so placed it here to minimise the spinning when operating the butterfly valve. Third photo is the very first way I did it, but capping the sight glass makes dumping anything difficult, you really need a second valve after it to dump as it gets messy closing the valve, removing the sight glass, putting it back on and also introduces some O2.

IMG_7171.jpg

IMG_7360.jpg

IMG_6742.jpg
 
Not sure why it would have an “O” ring in it DJ? I have bought a few sanitary fittings over the years and they were all supplied with flat washers. Maybe email to the supplier as to why? The first pic would be the preferred position for the sight glass.
Edit. I own a conical, not a chronical.
 
Hey razz, it’s the design of the ss brewtech micro type sight glass that uses o-rings (see photos). I’ll check if some flat washers will work but it still seems like a lot of force on the glass to get a seal that can withstand the turning force when opening the butterfly valve too.

IMG_7366.jpg

IMG_7367.jpg

IMG_7368.jpg

IMG_7369.jpg
 
Hey razz, it’s the design of the ss brewtech micro type sight glass that uses o-rings (see photos). I’ll check if some flat washers will work but it still seems like a lot of force on the glass to get a seal that can withstand the turning force when opening the butterfly valve too.

That looks different to the design on the ssbrewtech website. The one on the website has molded blue seals not orings. Maybe you have an older version of it? I'd be shooting someone an email.
 
Thanks huez I didn’t even think so look back at the ss brewtech site. They’ve updated the design by looks of it. Supplier of mine said he’s in touch with them about replacing the seals for the old design kits so will get replacements in due course [emoji106]
 
If its a o ring can you take to a seal supplier and get one the same size probably a good idea to get extra when purchasing as would think will always need replacing.
 
What method are you guys using to transfer from your kettle into these fermenters? I use an immersion chiller in a Guten and I use the pump to whirlpool whilst chilling. So Im thinking of making sure my whirlpool hose is long enough to reach the fermenter so once Ive reached temperature I can connect the hose to the racking arm valve and use the valve to throttle the flow slowly into the fermenter.
 
So Im thinking of making sure my whirlpool hose is long enough to reach the fermenter so once Ive reached temperature I can connect the hose to the racking arm valve and use the valve to throttle the flow slowly into the fermenter.

Yeast likes to be pitched into well oxygenated wort.

One way to help achieve this is by splashing your wort in vigorously. Attach a 1/2” TC barb to the lid and pump it up via that. If using the FTSS flat lid, the airlock hole is perfectly sized to hold the end of a 1/2” silicon tube securely. Your wort will burble about and foam up, mixing in lots of air.

Pays to try to refrain from opening the lid too much to check the level. Best to know the post boil volume beforehand.
 
Last edited:
Yeast likes to be pitched into well oxygenated wort.

One way to help achieve this is by splashing your wort in vigorously. Attach a 1/2” TC barb to the lid and pump it up via that. If using the FTSS flat lid, the airlock hole is perfectly sized to hold the end of a 1/2” silicon tube securely. Your wort will burble about and foam up, mixing in lots of air.

Pays to try to refrain from opening the lid too much to check the level. Best to know the post boil volume beforehand.
I use an oxygen bottle and airstone but I suppose every little bit helps. I dont have the FTSS lid but I can still just clamp the 1/2 inch hose to the top with the rubber airlock bung removed.

cheers for that
 
Howdy brewers. Has anyone setup a dry hop chamber for their Chronical with O2 purge? I was thinking of getting a 1.5"butterfly valve and connecting it to the lid. Then on top of that fit a 1.5"sight glass and finally the 1.5" Pressurised transfer fitting as shown in my post above (No 113)

So when I first pitch yeast I would connect a hose to the barb on the Pressurised transfer fitting and use as my blow off tube and the butterfly valve would be open. When Im ready to dry hop I close the valve, remove the PT fitting and fill the sight glass chamber with hops. Fit the PT fitting again and connect the hose to gas then purge a few times to get rid of any O2 and open the valve to drop the hops in.

Anyone done something similar to this?

EDIT:- Sight glass probably isnt needed I suppose as you dont need to see your hops and tube is $17.97 on ebay vs $54.89 for sight glass.
 
Howdy brewers. Has anyone setup a dry hop chamber for their Chronical with O2 purge? I was thinking of getting a 1.5"butterfly valve and connecting it to the lid. Then on top of that fit a 1.5"sight glass and finally the 1.5" Pressurised transfer fitting as shown in my post above (No 113)

So when I first pitch yeast I would connect a hose to the barb on the Pressurised transfer fitting and use as my blow off tube and the butterfly valve would be open. When Im ready to dry hop I close the valve, remove the PT fitting and fill the sight glass chamber with hops. Fit the PT fitting again and connect the hose to gas then purge a few times to get rid of any O2 and open the valve to drop the hops in.

Anyone done something similar to this?

EDIT:- Sight glass probably isnt needed I suppose as you dont need to see your hops and tube is $17.97 on ebay vs $54.89 for sight glass.
Yep, I've posted my build at the other place - do a Google search for "Dry hop airlock for pressurised FV" and you'll find it. The principal is sound, but my experience was that 1.5" butterfly valves have too small an aperture for hop pellets to fall through. 2" or above sounds like it'll work, certainly my 4" version did. Otherwise perhaps a full-bore valve like a ball valve if you're stuck with 1.5".
 
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