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Brewtech SS fermenting vessels discussion thread

Discussion in 'Gear and Equipment' started by Bribie G, 30/6/14.

 

  1. Bribie G

    Adjunct Professor

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    Posted 30/6/14
    The Brewtech thread in "retailers" was turning into a discussion thread so I have started a fanboi column here, to free up the other thread for Full Pint, Newera etc for retail / sales / orders / deliveries issues.

    Now the product is in active use, here's a thread for tips n tricks, problems if any, photos, etc.

    ed: Discussion was also split between the two other threads, for example Pete having to post in two threads re passivation, so this will free up the dedicated Newera thread as well.
     
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  2. Bribie G

    Adjunct Professor

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    Posted 30/6/14
    Yay.. now we're talking, now we're definitely bloody well talking. :)

    I can ferment a Full batch lager in the BrewBucket and there's still room in the Kegmate for a cornie with a cut down dip tube, to ferment a 15 L batch of lager for the forthcoming comps. Doing two lager brews today. :beerbang:




    bb 5.jpg
     
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  3. Spiesy

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    Posted 1/7/14
    Was kind of hoping our thread would open up for discussion.
     
  4. mckenry

    Brummagem

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    Posted 1/7/14
    As much as I hate multiple places for the same kinds of info, Bribie is right. This one will be about the gear, hence in gear and equip, whereas the other one is in retail shop, so discussion should be limited to retail issues / releases etc. There is nothing wrong with a bit of cross info (its going to happen anyway, but I believe retailers cant spruik in these threads?)
    So, I hear you, but I like the tips tricks etc here :)
     
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  5. mckenry

    Brummagem

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    Posted 1/7/14
    Just another thread I have to subscribe to...
     
  6. SmallFry

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    Posted 1/7/14
    How did you end up doing your initial passivation, Bribie?

    Did you just spray on the concentrated Starsan?
     
  7. Bribie G

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    Posted 1/7/14
    Yes. I washed the BB with Selly's sugar soap first, that solution ran off and I was expecting the Starsan to run off as well so I might need to fill the vessel.

    However the solution (15 ml in one of those little $4 spray bottles from the hardware shop) clung to the surface when I misted it, so I gave it about four treatments over half an hour, and I let it sun dry. However it's turned out streaky so I'll rinse off the outside and buff it up, inside no problem.
     
  8. TidalPete

    BREWING BY THE BEACH

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    Posted 1/7/14
    It's worth sacrificing a couple of hundred ml of Starsan or whatever to protect your $250 investment. :beerbang:

    I've been experimenting with phos acid (I've got heaps of the stuff but no Starsan) & am passivating my bucket in a plastic garbage bin containing 32-litres of 40ml Phos\4.0 litres water at the recommended temps for 20 minutes or so.
    Seems to work ok as you can notice a slight change of colour after the stainless has dried & slight surface rust marks on the scrap SS have disappeared.
     
  9. Bribie G

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    Posted 1/7/14
    I'd say the Starsan spray would have the same effect as filling the BB, the metal surface doesn't know whether the film on its surface is a film or part of a larger body. Actually Palmer, in How to Brew recommends using Bar Keepers Friend then rinsing and drying thoroughly. :unsure: :unsure:

    Other sources say to thoroughly clean the surface to bare metal (hence the trisodium phosphate), rinse and dry and the surface will passivate itself automatically on contact with oxygen.

    Citric acid will also work, but I used all mine last night renovating the urn.

    Hey how about a new thread on passivating SS :ph34r: :ph34r:
     
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  10. Bribie G

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    Posted 1/7/14
    After more research, the following seems to be the accepted facts:

    Stainless steel will passivate itself in the presence of oxygen

    It will not do so if it's not bare metal: i.e some grease or other substance on the surface that will prevent the layer of chromium dioxide developing.

    Hence the need to take the BrewBucket back to bare metal, recommended usage of Trisodium Phosphate to do this.

    The use of acids is to remove any iron traces from welding or other industrial processes. Industrially they use nitric acid, but citric acid (and presumably phosphoric acid which is and active ingredient in Starsan) can also work.

    The UK Stainless Steel Institute stresses that this is NOT passivation per se, although it's often described as such: it is just cleaning the ss manufactured object up further so it can passivate itself, as Pete found happened with his scrap.

    I'm not confident that the sugar soap did the job properly so I'll grab some Trisodium Phosphate from Masters tomorrow and use that to rewash the bucket, dry thoroughly and the bucket should passivate itself in the presence of oxygen.
     
  11. TidalPete

    BREWING BY THE BEACH

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    Posted 1/7/14
    Thanks for all your research Bribie. Much appreciated.
    I'll probably re-passivate redo the lid once I get my TIG welding done.
     
  12. Natdene

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    Posted 1/7/14
    So will this work to passivate? image.jpg
     
  13. Maheel

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    Posted 1/7/14
    why do you need to passivate it ?
     
  14. mckenry

    Brummagem

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    Posted 1/7/14
    Here's my first question re conicals. After doing a bit of reading on the US forums I think I understand about yeast dumping.

    I want to do everything in a single vessel, so I think I can do a secondary in the one vessel if my understanding is right.

    1. Ferment to terminal gravity
    2. Dump trub, which is a bit darker than th eyeast. (Dont know how I'm going to get that right first time, but meh, trial and error)
    3. Collect yeast into a sanitised container until beer starts to run out
    4. Add any dry hops and brew dependant, leave for x days
    5. Crash chill
    6. Remove beer via racking arm

    What I am a bit confused about is, why dump yeast at FG if you have a racking arm anyway? Wouldnt you just be able to do everything until kegging day, dump trub, followed by yeast then beer through racking arm?
     
  15. Bribie G

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    Posted 1/7/14
    I'd agree with your thoughts.

    Say for an ale, the first lot of shyte into the cone will be trub: some hot break and the cold break. I find that the cold break tends to get "pickled" and drops out fairly soon. So you can rotate the racking arm down into the cone, run off much of the break, thus getting rid of most of that before FG, then rotate back up into the beer.

    Then during fermentation over the next few days, yeast will rain down into the cone, filling it up.

    However at this point, (edit: particularly if doing a lager) if you wish to collect the yeast for subsequent brews, you need to decide whether you are going collect the yeast at FG then proceed to cold crashing, or cold crash and collect the yeast at the end of lagering or cold conditioning.

    If kegging straight away without saving yeast, you can just position racking arm, hopefully, above yeast cake level and go about your business then dispose of the yeast.

    However if you want to harvest yeast it's probably the best time to do so, because if you leave the yeast there then crash chill, you could end up with shocked yeast and other issues.

    So if cold crashing and harvesting, I'd rotate down into the yeast cake at FG before chilling, then draw off yeast for reculturing, then lager the beer.

    I'd speculate that if you don't have the long racking arm then, if you have disposed of the trub earlier, then the short racking arm as supplied should only be picking up yeast. Any remaining trub would be sitting in the bottom of the cone out of the reach of the racking arm.
     
  16. CrookedFingers

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    Posted 1/7/14
    That logic sounds ok to me mckenry.
    I was always under the impression that the conical base already reduces the surface contact with the yeast, I do suppose the option to dump it all together when ever you like is good. Who doesn't love options !?!?

    My query is, say i bought a thermowell for my brew bucket….How high up the fermenter is optimal ? I was going to put it just below the etched SS logo.
    ….sorry if this has been answered elsewhere, I have read most of these threads and not seen it……...

    Looking forward to a good idea or two !
    CF
     
  17. Spiesy

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    Posted 1/7/14
    Depends on the length of your thermowell.

    Ideally you'd like the bottom of your thermowell smack-bang in the middle of your fermenting wort, or as near to.
    I'd be going in from the top, if your thermowell allows.

    Not that I'm advocating drilling holes in your BrewBucket, by any means... ;)
     
  18. Camo6

    Relax? Don't worry?? It's not just an internet for

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    Posted 1/7/14
    Ooh ooh, did I miss something. Whatcha doing to the lid TP?

    Starting to wish I'd just paid for the freight on mine. Me want shiny now.
     
  19. CrookedFingers

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    Posted 1/7/14
    Thanks Spiesy,
    Lower down sounds like a good place, right near the action !
    To be honest I was going to just middle it, using the logic that it could only be better than attaching it to the outside.


    CF
     
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  20. bradmelb

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    Posted 1/7/14
    Shiny, shiny bucket arrived yesterday. Its christmas in july!
     
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