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Show me your mashmaster mill and motion dynamics motor setup

Discussion in 'Gear and Equipment' started by Kingy, 23/1/17.

 

  1. n87

    Same as it ever was

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    Posted 26/1/17
    Ivan says it's 1/4"(unc by the looks of it)
     
  2. Kingy

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    Posted 26/1/17
    Frank emailed me back straight Away and it's 1/4" unc.
     
  3. n87

    Same as it ever was

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    Posted 26/1/17
    Kinda makes you wonder when manufacturing is going to catch up and use and start using this new idea of metric measurements.

    I was a little shocked when it turned out to be imperial.
     
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  4. Kingy

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    Posted 27/1/17
    Got mine up and running , just using a plastic box from Bunnings until I find something more suitable to mount to the wall. ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1485505856.881891.jpg ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1485505917.252745.jpg
     
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  5. Glomp

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    Posted 27/1/17
    Maybe they are looking to expand into the American market. It would make a lot of sense then.

    I notice that kegking now supply stuff there.
     
  6. n87

    Same as it ever was

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    Posted 2/2/17
    I just had a look on the MD website, tossing up as to whether I impulse buy the motor and its out of stock!
    Guess that made my decision (and prob the better on at this point) but annoying all the same.
     
  7. BrissyBrew

    MashMaster

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    Posted 4/2/17
    The drive shaft on earlier models was 12mm metric, but this caused problems at the time as 1/2" pulleys on the Australian market were the norm not imperial. MD motors were not on the market back them. I have actually considered to go up to the 5/8ths (same thickness as the shoulder on the drive shaft) drive shaft size now that the mill has a 3/8th drill chuck shaft on the other end. But I think 1/2 is still more accessible. The new fluted rollers provide a more stable grist distribution across a larger RPM range, testing was done 220 to 530RPM (yes I have a tachometer on the the test mill). On the knurled rollers slower RPM was way better, high RPMs really smashed malt and created too much flour, the fluted rollers you are only getting 1-2% difference in grist profile at the #100 sieve and pan, and a gap adjustment can easily compensate for that. The need for low RPMs is not as critical as it was with the knurled mills.

    We are looking at the US market in the future. I have actually been considering machining a clean non tapped hole straight though, meaning it will take a metric or imperial bolt though the top securing the hopper and straight though to under the work bench. No tapped aluminium which can easily be cross threaded too. This would make the mill more universal regarding sizes of bolts and probably make it easier for people to drill the mounting holes, e.g. the mill would work as a template for the holes and there would be a little wiggle room to allow for alignment.

    Thanks for you feedback.
     
  8. Damranger

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    Posted 4/2/17
    I've got mine mounted to an Ikea kitchen trolley thingy...cost about $60 from memory. Not a great photo ....

    mill.jpg

    View attachment IMG_1215.MOV
     
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  9. n87

    Same as it ever was

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    Posted 21/2/17
    Hi BB,

    Do you have technical drawings of the mill available?
    Planning my motorised table and need to compare it to the motor.

    Also, I was thinking of putting the mill underneath the table top with the hopper on top. Do you see a problem with this assuming the hole is the same size as the hopper output?
     
  10. Damranger

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    Posted 21/2/17
    It's a buggar lining things up so yes to this.
     
  11. doglet

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    Posted 10/4/17
    There are lots of good ideas on this site for the mills and this is my interpretation.

    I've just finished mounting my mill on a trolley I bought from eBay. It's nice having it in wheels because I can wheel it outside of my brew room when crushing to reduce the dust mess. My electronic scales fit perfectly on it and it's a good height for measuring out the grain bill.

    I used a scrap piece of plywood underneath to give some rigidity because the sheet of the trolley is a bit flimsy and I could see the torque was causing some twisting. The timber will also stop the grain dust sticking to the underside of the trolley due to static charge.

    I need to make a chute now to go into a bucket. Currently I use a box to prop up a plastic pail underneath to reduce the gap under the mill.

    Couple of things I learnt were:
    - I have the original Motion Dynamics board. There is a jumper on it that you need to remove off you want the switch to work. Otherwise it's always ON.
    - I bought one of the cheap Chinese eBay spiders. 1/2 inch to 12mm. I found I was getting slippage so I roughed up the 12mm rod a bit with a file to get more grip which seemed to do the trick.

    ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1491817430.357902.jpg ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1491817470.930382.jpg ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1491817497.544987.jpg ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1491817531.008510.jpg ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1491817565.763573.jpg
     
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  12. nosco

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    Posted 8/7/17
    So my planned brew day hasn't got off the ground yet. My mill motor control decided not to work. I did have it wired up with a voltage meter which was totally fkn useless for my needs. So I tried to wire it up as per the MD website diagrams. No luck. I have a sparky mate coming around to have a look. I have the sensor controller. Why is the motor and battery wired around the opposite way on the non sensor compared to the sensor controller?

    Crisis averted. Brew day postponed till tomorrow.
     

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    Last edited: 8/7/17
  13. kingo102

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    Posted 11/7/18
    Hi all

    An old thread, but having some trouble tracking down a keyed 1/2" to 12 mm coupling for the motion dynamics DC motor. Anyone sourced one of these?

    Cheers
    David
     
  14. Belgrave Brewer

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    Posted 11/7/18

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