MaxN68
Well-Known Member
For replace the LCD you need... a 20x4 LCD Display
Thank you very much, as I said I have the pcb matho in a previous team and put the lcd 20x4. Greetings.MaxN68 said:For replace the LCD you need... a 20x4 LCD Display
your pots look great! What sizes and where did you get them?booargy said:I have a PCduino but I am thinking the mega is better for the code side of things. I have a nice shiny stainless sloped top enclosure for the final build and 7" touch screen would be nice.
Funny I was setting up for 100L batches in 3V have all the pots but small things grow into big things. but then I need to build a crane.
IMG_20140511_223454.jpg
Looks great! Where did you get the cool LCD frame thing? (I realise you are in a different country... but if you know the real name for it that would be awesome) and I know of a few others from the UK that are building them.lehtinel said:Got my controller going properly:
Interesting! is the 4s PWM duty cycle standard in the ArdBir code? I might run a full cycle through using the code and compare..arzaman said:Indeed the SSR is mounted on a DIN rail that in some way works as an heatsink.
In my preliminary test with 2.5kw heating element / 220v AC and PWM duty cycle of 4s the SSR became slightly warm
Davide
the 150L everyone has been talking about and the craft brewer 100L. I am thinking only drama is liftinglael said:your pots look great! What sizes and where did you get them?
The PWM duty cycle time base as reported in the user manual (PID parameter section) is fully configurable in the 1000 to 7500 ms rangelael said:Interesting! is the 4s PWM duty cycle standard in the ArdBir code? I might run a full cycle through using the code and compare..
lol - awesome. You actually did it!booargy said:the 150L everyone has been talking about and the craft brewer 100L. I am thinking only drama is lifting
I have to agee with this to some extent if going this sort of size I would (and still may) go down the path Jonathan and the Blichmann brew easy obviously still using mathos controller. If you used the blichmann auto sparge on a similar setup to beer bellys mash return dish your batch volume could be pretty much changed at will.lael said:lol - awesome. You actually did it!
Just a word of warning before you put holes in the craftbrewer pot... the smallest batch size you can do with those two pots is about... 80L - I didn't do the calcs on the spreadsheet because it really was just for fun when I posted it. The difficulty is that you have to fluidise a 100L pot... which means 100L (plus the water to cover your elements) minus the volume of water that your grain bill displaces.
So... don't stone me for being sacrilegious... but if I was to consider wanting to do batches this size... I might consider an alternative route that might be more flexible - set up the system more as a two vessel system. Have the 100L pot as your mash tun with a stainless false bottom (just like you would have as a malt pipe), and use the big kettle as your reservoir. Still pump reverse flow (bottom up), and have a 1" outlet on the side of the brew kettle at the top that flows back into the brew kettle / reservoir. Same amount of pumps and heating - in the brew kettle. Same amount of stainless plates required etc. But - not the lifting required, and you don't need a whopping hole in the 100L pot. Yes, it would reduce your grain capacity a little.
So why?... well... if you want to make a smaller batch - I would guess that if you designed it correctly, you could use the 100L pot as the outer pot and then have another malt pipe that goes inside that pot. Thinking aloud here - I guess the issues are you would need heating elements for ramping and the plumbing for that. Alternately you could put multiple bulkheads down the side of the mash tun for different size grain bills... which would allow lower fluid levels (wait... would a siphon system of some sort work?)
ok, so just some thoughts. Now - carry on!
Edit: the spreadsheet shows the minimum batch sizes and max batch sizes possible if you went the traditional brau set up route.
It's this one: http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/lcd-bezel-16x2?keyword=lcd%20bezellael said:Looks great! Where did you get the cool LCD frame thing? (I realise you are in a different country... but if you know the real name for it that would be awesome) and I know of a few others from the UK that are building them.
Enter your email address to join: