Matho's controller

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
MaxN68 said:
For replace the LCD you need... a 20x4 LCD Display :)
Thank you very much, as I said I have the pcb matho in a previous team and put the lcd 20x4. Greetings.
 
booargy said:
I have a PCduino but I am thinking the mega is better for the code side of things. I have a nice shiny stainless sloped top enclosure for the final build and 7" touch screen would be nice.
Funny I was setting up for 100L batches in 3V have all the pots but small things grow into big things. but then I need to build a crane.
attachicon.gif
IMG_20140511_223454.jpg
your pots look great! What sizes and where did you get them?
 
lehtinel said:
Got my controller going properly:
Looks great! Where did you get the cool LCD frame thing? (I realise you are in a different country... but if you know the real name for it that would be awesome) and I know of a few others from the UK that are building them.
 
arzaman said:
Indeed the SSR is mounted on a DIN rail that in some way works as an heatsink.
In my preliminary test with 2.5kw heating element / 220v AC and PWM duty cycle of 4s the SSR became slightly warm

Davide
Interesting! is the 4s PWM duty cycle standard in the ArdBir code? I might run a full cycle through using the code and compare..
 
lael said:
your pots look great! What sizes and where did you get them?
the 150L everyone has been talking about and the craft brewer 100L. I am thinking only drama is lifting
 
lael said:
Interesting! is the 4s PWM duty cycle standard in the ArdBir code? I might run a full cycle through using the code and compare..
The PWM duty cycle time base as reported in the user manual (PID parameter section) is fully configurable in the 1000 to 7500 ms range
The right value depends on so many factor basically linked to thermodynamic characteristics of the assembly like heating element power and inertia, thermal insulation...
In some way it should be tuned , like other PID parameters, empirically
 
booargy said:
the 150L everyone has been talking about and the craft brewer 100L. I am thinking only drama is lifting
lol - awesome. You actually did it! :)

Just a word of warning before you put holes in the craftbrewer pot... the smallest batch size you can do with those two pots is about... 80L - I didn't do the calcs on the spreadsheet because it really was just for fun when I posted it. The difficulty is that you have to fluidise a 100L pot... which means 100L (plus the water to cover your elements) minus the volume of water that your grain bill displaces.

So... don't stone me for being sacrilegious... but if I was to consider wanting to do batches this size... I might consider an alternative route that might be more flexible - set up the system more as a two vessel system. Have the 100L pot as your mash tun with a stainless false bottom (just like you would have as a malt pipe), and use the big kettle as your reservoir. Still pump reverse flow (bottom up), and have a 1" outlet on the side of the brew kettle at the top that flows back into the brew kettle / reservoir. Same amount of pumps and heating - in the brew kettle. Same amount of stainless plates required etc. But - not the lifting required, and you don't need a whopping hole in the 100L pot. Yes, it would reduce your grain capacity a little.

So why?... well... if you want to make a smaller batch - I would guess that if you designed it correctly, you could use the 100L pot as the outer pot and then have another malt pipe that goes inside that pot. Thinking aloud here - I guess the issues are you would need heating elements for ramping and the plumbing for that. Alternately you could put multiple bulkheads down the side of the mash tun for different size grain bills... which would allow lower fluid levels (wait... would a siphon system of some sort work?)

ok, so just some thoughts. Now - carry on!

Edit: the spreadsheet shows the minimum batch sizes and max batch sizes possible if you went the traditional brau set up route.

View attachment 150L pot Braumiser Volumes.xls
 
lael said:
lol - awesome. You actually did it! :)

Just a word of warning before you put holes in the craftbrewer pot... the smallest batch size you can do with those two pots is about... 80L - I didn't do the calcs on the spreadsheet because it really was just for fun when I posted it. The difficulty is that you have to fluidise a 100L pot... which means 100L (plus the water to cover your elements) minus the volume of water that your grain bill displaces.

So... don't stone me for being sacrilegious... but if I was to consider wanting to do batches this size... I might consider an alternative route that might be more flexible - set up the system more as a two vessel system. Have the 100L pot as your mash tun with a stainless false bottom (just like you would have as a malt pipe), and use the big kettle as your reservoir. Still pump reverse flow (bottom up), and have a 1" outlet on the side of the brew kettle at the top that flows back into the brew kettle / reservoir. Same amount of pumps and heating - in the brew kettle. Same amount of stainless plates required etc. But - not the lifting required, and you don't need a whopping hole in the 100L pot. Yes, it would reduce your grain capacity a little.

So why?... well... if you want to make a smaller batch - I would guess that if you designed it correctly, you could use the 100L pot as the outer pot and then have another malt pipe that goes inside that pot. Thinking aloud here - I guess the issues are you would need heating elements for ramping and the plumbing for that. Alternately you could put multiple bulkheads down the side of the mash tun for different size grain bills... which would allow lower fluid levels (wait... would a siphon system of some sort work?)

ok, so just some thoughts. Now - carry on!

Edit: the spreadsheet shows the minimum batch sizes and max batch sizes possible if you went the traditional brau set up route.
I have to agee with this to some extent if going this sort of size I would (and still may) go down the path Jonathan and the Blichmann brew easy obviously still using mathos controller. If you used the blichmann auto sparge on a similar setup to beer bellys mash return dish your batch volume could be pretty much changed at will.

MB
 
lael said:
Looks great! Where did you get the cool LCD frame thing? (I realise you are in a different country... but if you know the real name for it that would be awesome) and I know of a few others from the UK that are building them.
It's this one: http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/lcd-bezel-16x2?keyword=lcd%20bezel

You could find a more local source by googling Lcd Bezel 16x2 etc., that's how I found this one. I cut out all the taps and mounting stuff and just glued it flat to the case. Dirt cheap, very effective. No way I was gonna have my 'Dremel drill carved LCD mount' visible. :beerbang:
 
A technical Arduino programming question. I must say I ask after many hours of seeking enlightenment on the web without success.
i will say I make my living in electronics and embedded systems. Currently in medical but has been gaming before. Never liked the SW side.

I had the Brauduino up and running with Local SW and a 16x2 LCD. But I always want the best and decided to go for the ArdBir and silly me swapped the LCD to 20x4 (silly me made 2 changes simultaneously!

Well I managed to find all the libraries and get the sketch to compile after making choices. But when I upload to the UNO that I received with the Braduino kit I get this

Binary sketch size: 32,156 bytes (of a 32,256 byte maximum)
avrdude: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0x7800
0x00 != 0xff
avrdude: verification error; content mismatch

Now I would think 7800 is almost at the top end of the 32k in the memory map. 7fff = 32K

So A few ideas as to the cause.
1 The sketch is too big probably as I have an extra library included?
2 The Uno is faulty?
3 I am just getting too old for this !

I am running latest Arduino SW and under Windows 7, 64 bit.

I did try loading into a freetronics ëleven"and it actually seems to work with no errors, and did put up the correct display on the 20x4, but it belongs in an educational kit.
I successfully laded a simple blink sketch into the problematic UNO and it works but is a very small file.

Any ideas?

I guess I can order another UNO and try that?

I have heard others doing this successfully

james
 
What version arduino uno do you have? Version 3 or an earlier one?
 
check you haven't included both 20x4 and 16x2 librarys, you could also try deleting credits or compiling on a Unbunto or similar system or all of those
 
Hi Neo__04 & MastersBrewery

I have the UNO R3

I did try rem ing out the credits and graphics. And only the 20x4 library.
And it works perfectly on the Freetronics ëleven"UNO clone.

I tried reloading USB drivers , checking libraries etc but still no go on the UNO R3


Bed time

James
 
To prevent malfunction due to the different mapping of ArdBir EEPROM it is recommended that the correct setting of PID parameters and UNIT parameters before using the manual or automatic mode for brewing
 
James, I don't think your issue is the size. I think it is something else. From memory I've had the same error when using the latest version of the arduino ide, but it has worked fine with 1.0.3. I don't know why, and honestly didn't bother to look into it....
 
James, I don't think your issue is the size. I think it is something else. From memory I've had the same error when using the latest version of the arduino ide, but it has worked fine with 1.0.3. I don't know why, and honestly didn't bother to look into it....
 

Latest posts

Back
Top