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Is that a lead balancing weight on the rim? (top left of pic) If so, you might consider removing it before it melts and drips molten lead onto your floor... or foot!
In that photo the drum is upside down, there is no danger of the heat getting that low,

the photo below was post boil the other day, what I found was that it needs another inner support bolt where the burner sits on the hinged 'shelf' (middle left of photo) but I think the height is good and the adjustable legs worked a treat on the uneven ground, also the 'slot' where the handle comes through needs widening a bit and it will then also fit a 4 ring burner snugly.

The base of the keggle sits very nicely on the upper 'ledge' on the top part of the rim and was happy with the height. I think 3 or 4 air inlets on the top sides and rear will improve the flame when the keggle is on it.

2.JPG

slightly OT but here is the latest upgrade to the HLT ive been making.. (Site tube added) I love me rubberised HLT.. minimum rubber thickness is about 5mm

1.JPG
 
Is that a lead balancing weight on the rim? (top left of pic) If so, you might consider removing it before it melts and drips molten lead onto your floor... or foot!


Can't take that off! all his brews would be unbalanced :lol:
 
I love me rubberised HLT.. minimum rubber thickness is about 5mm

how thick is the steel? ive got one about to be a mash-tun, but im having second thoughts. Tried to get something welded to it and it blew straight through and melted some of the rubber... :(


sim
 
I dont have a micrometer but Id say about .75mm

I burned a little of the rubber myself when cutting the hole at the top.. weird sandwich panel with rubber between.. smelly job <_<

1.JPG ;)

Ive really only been drilling and fitting weldless fittings so the welding issue hasnt come up for me mate...
 
Nice one yob!
I've taken out the shank from mine but yet to get it fitter out into a HLT. Still using the 19L BigW on the stove for now haha.

Was it hard to cut that rubber crap off?
 
Ya need a wire brushing wheel to get down to the steel or you will smoke yourself out something fierce, the wire brush method is not without it's dawbacks either...

please make sure SWMBO's washing is off the line before creating clouds of particalised rubber!! :lol:

either way mate, ear eye and lung masks for that job, t-shirt/bandanna type did me mostly, if you have a good ventilator mask... use it!!

would have been torture without the wirebrush wheel fo shizzle

for the holes, the guy at keg king sold me a drill bit that goes through em like boiling water into a chocolate coffee cup... awesome, still having minor tweaks to stop the tiny little drips as these kegs are a little narrower and taller so are tricky to get a good seal... thread tape is your friend!! Ha!

:icon_cheers:
 
Nice one! I started at it with a utility knife... I didn't get far haha.

You can try silicone to seal it up. Thats what I had to do on my mash tun.

How are you doing to heat it? Electric or fire?
 
How are you doing to heat it? Electric or fire?

Electric mate, 2400 watt over the side element, heats up about 1'c a min which aint too bad I guess, :unsure:

in the end Ive fixed the leaking with this approach

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it's metal but starts as a putty, you knead the 2 parts together and the stuff sets in like 10 minutes.. its great stuff and Ive fixed many a thing with it :)

like a yob I measured nothing first and drilled away only to find that I hadnt allowed for the vertical part of the elbow and I couldnt measure 35 without a bit of guesswork, so I had to turn the elbows horizontal to get my readings accurate

1.JPG

:lol:

it works and thats the main thing

if you need the right gear for your build you can drop over with it and grind and drill away to your hearts content... er as long as the washing's in :lol:
 

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