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Hey would anyone have a Cannular Can and Bottle Filler that they don’t want?
Hey would anyone have a Cannular Can and Bottle Filler that they don’t want?

That is fairly unlikely. These are quite new and in demand at the moment. The last few shipments sold out fairly quick.

We have about 8 with cosmetic damage that we will test at some stage soon and then we will probably list these at a discount on this facebook group:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/homebrewdownunder/

So I would say this is probably your best chance.
 
That is fairly unlikely. These are quite new and in demand at the moment. The last few shipments sold out fairly quick.

We have about 8 with cosmetic damage that we will test at some stage soon and then we will probably list these at a discount on this facebook group:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/homebrewdownunder/

So I would say this is probably your best chance.
Can you send me an email when these become available as I was kicked off your Facebook group (talk to Oli about this)
 
@KegLand-com-au Is there more information on what all the settings are on the cannular can and bottle filler? I've got a pressure sensor error and it's not letting me fill anything. It just stops as soon as I press the button. What settings are relevant for this problem?
 
@KegLand-com-au Is there more information on what all the settings are on the cannular can and bottle filler? I've got a pressure sensor error and it's not letting me fill anything. It just stops as soon as I press the button. What settings are relevant for this problem?
I noticed there’s a new (to me) video on the product page that covers setup and some error codes I believe
 
Can you send us a screen shot. This would help us help you. I am sure we can work it out fairly quickly.
I didn't manage to get a screenshot before the brew finished. I have now done another brew & the fermenter controller is showing the target temperature input box.
If this issue shows up again I will repost with screenshot.
 
@KegLand-com-au Is there more information on what all the settings are on the cannular can and bottle filler? I've got a pressure sensor error and it's not letting me fill anything. It just stops as soon as I press the button. What settings are relevant for this problem?
I would contact our customer service team If you have a pressure sensor error it might need to come back to us but if you email us with your order number and a recording of what it's doing thats normally the fastest way to rectify the issue.
 
Hi @KegLand-com-au was doing a canning run yesterday using full aperture black 500mL cans you sell. We noticed a VERY strong Sulfur smell from the lids sitting in a bucket of sanitizer. We tried different containers, changed the sanitizer (mixed as per directions Stellarsan using de-chlorinated filtered tap water) and got fresh dry lids. They all do this strong Sulfur smell.

What’s up with that are the can lids safe to use? Would hate to start cracking cans to have that smell taint the product?! Have been through a few boxes of these cans and never had this before?
 
Hi @KegLand-com-au was doing a canning run yesterday using full aperture black 500mL cans you sell. We noticed a VERY strong Sulfur smell from the lids sitting in a bucket of sanitizer. We tried different containers, changed the sanitizer (mixed as per directions Stellarsan using de-chlorinated filtered tap water) and got fresh dry lids. They all do this strong Sulfur smell.

What’s up with that are the can lids safe to use? Would hate to start cracking cans to have that smell taint the product?! Have been through a few boxes of these cans and never had this before?

Have not heard of this before. The can's and lids have a highly controlled manufacturing process and the only think that touches the beer is the epoxy coating inside the can and this epoxy coating doesn't contain any sulfur. I really think your sulfur is coming from somewhere else to be honest. It's more common for sulfur smells to come from the beer itself.
 
Have not heard of this before. The can's and lids have a highly controlled manufacturing process and the only think that touches the beer is the epoxy coating inside the can and this epoxy coating doesn't contain any sulfur. I really think your sulfur is coming from somewhere else to be honest. It's more common for sulfur smells to come from the beer itself.
Well I can’t guarantee it’s Sulfur that we smelt but it certainly had that eggy/fart type smell. Our of curiosity looked up what’s in the Stellarsan; Dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid ; Linear Formula: C12H25C6H4SO3H

What epoxy do you use does it have hydrogen in the formula as it could be formation of H2S (hydrogen sulfide)? Which is quite a dangerous gas even at low levels 😬

I’ve got other boxes of smaller sized cans and the lids from those don’t do this…
 

duotight 8mm (5/16) x Ball Lock Disconnect - (Black + Yellow Liquid)​

Anyone ideas if you need a clamp on the beer (or gas line if using red gas connect) - It seems you can push on tight, and have not seen any image or video with them, nothing in docs.
thanks

edit..This all new ball lock disconnect sets a new bar! The integrated duotight design means you can connect your beer and gas line directly, easily and reliably - no need for additional fittings or clamps.

cannot delete post, but if it helps anyone. - better than the orginal posts needing clamps.
 
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Well I can’t guarantee it’s Sulfur that we smelt but it certainly had that eggy/fart type smell. Our of curiosity looked up what’s in the Stellarsan; Dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid ; Linear Formula: C12H25C6H4SO3H

What epoxy do you use does it have hydrogen in the formula as it could be formation of H2S (hydrogen sulfide)? Which is quite a dangerous gas even at low levels 😬

I’ve got other boxes of smaller sized cans and the lids from those don’t do this…

The coatings of the cans are highly resistant to acid and are designed for this so I really do not think the smell is coming form the can coating. There is no way that the components in the Stellarsan and Epoxy coating can react with each other and this has already been thoroughly tested and they are compatible with each other.

It's fair to say that the acids in the Stellarsan could liberate hydrogen sulfide from something else but the source of sulfides would have to some from somewhere else other than the Stellarsan or can coating. Do you use any sodium or potassium metabisulfite?
 
The coatings of the cans are highly resistant to acid and are designed for this so I really do not think the smell is coming form the can coating. There is no way that the components in the Stellarsan and Epoxy coating can react with each other and this has already been thoroughly tested and they are compatible with each other.

It's fair to say that the acids in the Stellarsan could liberate hydrogen sulfide from something else but the source of sulfides would have to some from somewhere else other than the Stellarsan or can coating. Do you use any sodium or potassium metabisulfite?
Nope only Stellarclean (sod perc) and Stellarsan has been in contact with the bowl we had the lids in.

I’ve got a few boxes with older cans in them. I’ll setup a bit of a test/trial next time I’m canning and if I find a reproducible problem set, will drop them in next time I do a pickup.
 
Nope only Stellarclean (sod perc) and Stellarsan has been in contact with the bowl we had the lids in.

I’ve got a few boxes with older cans in them. I’ll setup a bit of a test/trial next time I’m canning and if I find a reproducible problem set, will drop them in next time I do a pickup.

Was it Stellerclean or was it pure "sodium percarbonate"?
 
Yes very sorry about that. We have made a decision to automatically package the DME and Oat Extract in very large quantities which has made our pricing very efficient. So we now sell the 20kg of DME and Oat Extract in 1kg bags cheaper than what it costs for Home Brew Stores to purchase bulk 20kg sacks. Due to this reason many home brew stores have switched over to our dried brewing sugars and this has caused us to sell out frequently. With that said we are scaling up production.

The products will be available next week as we have a container in Melbourne port now but that is likely to sell out again fast so when it comes back online I would encourage you to get it while stock lasts.
 
G’day G’day…

The G20 has caught my eye and want to know if it has the capability that I am looking for and would be grateful for any advice....

I have a 150L capacity conical and plan to ferment 110 l batches holding 12 C in an ambient of up to 30C.

I also have a 200L water tank which I would like to cool down as low as possible (5-10C) for use as a cold reservoir for wort cooling before brewday.

Both conical and tank are insulated to best of my ability.

So I’d like to know;
1. Can the G20 cold crash my fermenter and hold at 2-3 C for a week ? ( I am aware that heat ingress is probably the biggest issue for me).
2. Would it be capable of holding the cold crash temperature in the fermenter while also cooling the tank water (I realise this could take longer if the fermenter is being held at 2 or 3C).
3. What is the minimum temperature the unit can get to in its tank assuming the correct glycol % ?
4. Does the unit operate continuously or does the compressor switch on and off like a refrigerator when it has achieved target temperature? What about the fan and pump, is this always on for internal recirculation and / or external circulation or is this also controlled?
5. What is the approximate power draw in W under i) maximum load and ii) maintaining temperature mode ?

Thanks
 
G’day G’day…

The G20 has caught my eye and want to know if it has the capability that I am looking for and would be grateful for any advice....

I have a 150L capacity conical and plan to ferment 110 l batches holding 12 C in an ambient of up to 30C.

I also have a 200L water tank which I would like to cool down as low as possible (5-10C) for use as a cold reservoir for wort cooling before brewday.

Both conical and tank are insulated to best of my ability.

So I’d like to know;
1. Can the G20 cold crash my fermenter and hold at 2-3 C for a week ? ( I am aware that heat ingress is probably the biggest issue for me).
2. Would it be capable of holding the cold crash temperature in the fermenter while also cooling the tank water (I realise this could take longer if the fermenter is being held at 2 or 3C).
3. What is the minimum temperature the unit can get to in its tank assuming the correct glycol % ?
4. Does the unit operate continuously or does the compressor switch on and off like a refrigerator when it has achieved target temperature? What about the fan and pump, is this always on for internal recirculation and / or external circulation or is this also controlled?
5. What is the approximate power draw in W under i) maximum load and ii) maintaining temperature mode ?

Thanks

This is really impossible question to answer. If your conical tanks are as well insulated as our tanks like this then it will be no problem:
https://www.kegland.com.au/products/200l-conical-fermenter-with-dimple-jacket-and-insulation-unitank

As you can see on our tanks they are triple wall so have the inner skin, glycol jacket, then 50mm PU foam.

Many home brew customers purchase tanks with far worse insulation that this as they are cheaper but then as a result you have to over-spec the glycol chiller.

What you can do is simply cool the tank with a known quantity of liquid in the tank down to lets say 1C or as close to freezing as possible without actually getting ice in the tank (ice will put of the readings). Then log the temperature increase. Using the rate of temperature increase in the tank over time and also the total volume of liquid in the tank we can then work out what "heat ingress" you have given your tank design. Once you give us this information we can more efficiently answer your question.
 

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