Goose
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This is really impossible question to answer. If your conical tanks are as well insulated as our tanks like this then it will be no problem:
https://www.kegland.com.au/products/200l-conical-fermenter-with-dimple-jacket-and-insulation-unitank
As you can see on our tanks they are triple wall so have the inner skin, glycol jacket, then 50mm PU foam.
Many home brew customers purchase tanks with far worse insulation that this as they are cheaper but then as a result you have to over-spec the glycol chiller.
What you can do is simply cool the tank with a known quantity of liquid in the tank down to lets say 1C or as close to freezing as possible without actually getting ice in the tank (ice will put of the readings). Then log the temperature increase. Using the rate of temperature increase in the tank over time and also the total volume of liquid in the tank we can then work out what "heat ingress" you have given your tank design. Once you give us this information we can more efficiently answer your question.
Yes I gathered that was a kind of "how long is a piece of string" kind of question and your response is a fair one.
The conical I purchased is a Brewtools one and therefore extortionate rather than cheap and it is sold with a neoprene jacket that seems the same thickness as your Brewzilla / Digiboil units, but I'm thinking it would be better with a double neoprene layer, it can't hurt.
In the meantime, can you advise the power draws of the G20 please (under maximum load, and idling or maintaining/holding temperature) and the control method, ie is the pump always on, is the fan always on... thanks.