Kegging Setups

[Dan Pratt]

O jealous of those with space for nice big fridges inside!

When there's a will, there's a way. Here's my deluxe laundry basket and rubbish bag full of ice setup

That table looks like it takes up the space 4 tap keezer. and you will still have a spot to put things

 

[JDW81]

Hey JDW81 have you used clear vinyl tubing to connect your beer and gas lines and if yes how have you found it works?

Nah mate, it's all 5mm beer line. Just looks like clear PVC in the pictures.

 

[yum beer]

Took me 9 months of getting bit by bit, but I got there.

 

[Tony121]

Nice one, looks great!

 

[mofox1]

Finally got around to adding done fans to the keg fridge, and HOLY CRAP WHAT A DIFFERENCE IT MAKES!

First pour, it was mid 30's in the shed and what did I get? 2cm head in my tiny GABS glass.

First. Pour.

One fan at the centre rear pointing down, the other on one side directed across the shanks. Plugged into a 12v supply I built into my stc temp controller.

 

[DJ_L3ThAL]

Nice!! I'm lucky and have a factory fan driven all fridge kegerator and don't have first pour issues at all really as the shanks stay cool enough!

Nice mod, I'm sure lots will employ this method.

 

[btrots87]

Nice, I've been having some issues with my first pour too. Already have one fan in there but not one blowing across the shanks. Might have to give it a go.

 

[mofox1]

Nice, I've been having some issues with my first pour too. Already have one fan in there but not one blowing across the shanks. Might have to give it a go.

Yep, makes a big difference. Taps are noticeably colder now, not ice cold but obviously good enough.

 

[lost at sea]

Not sure if anyone else has done this. but anyways.....

on my KK4 i have the usual stainless font which i though was lacking a bit in the thermal insulation department, after noticing all the codensation on the outside.

so i went to clark rubber and grabbed 2 lengths of armour-flex (or what ever they call it about 5 bucks each i think) one of them the correct ID to fit inside the font snuggly and the other to fit inside the outer rubber to eliminate the excess air gap, cut them both to the correct length and pushed the smaller inside the larger (use baby powder to get em through) and cut one round piece to fit under the lid.

now when the font fan is running i get zero condensation except for the small part at the top where the shanks are, and the font is ambient temp now, meaning no cold air is escaping.
i now seem to have next to got rid of most of the foaming issues when pouring. cheap and simple.

 

[Kingy]

I've done something similar with mine but the insulation wouldn't be as good as yours. That's a great idea [emoji106]. I remember reading somewhere that someone puts zooper doopers in there font to cool it down, that's a good idea to [emoji23]

 

[lost at sea]

I've done something similar with mine but the insulation wouldn't be as good as yours. That's a great idea [emoji106]. I remember reading somewhere that someone puts zooper doopers in there font to cool it down, that's a good idea to [emoji23]

cheers, i assume you could probably get away with just the outer armour-flex but i was already at clark rubber and didnt want to make a return trip lol.

also if you look close in the pic you will see i only notched the top of the rubber out for the shanks, not cut the whole length down

note: i still have the issue of the taps needing to cool down but i plan on using a cup of water stored in the fridge as someone posted on another thread.

 

[Lionman]

note: i still have the issue of the taps needing to cool down but i plan on using a cup of water stored in the fridge as someone posted on another thread.

how does this work?

 

[lost at sea]

well im yet to put the theory into practice, but i plan on leaving a large cup of water inside the door of my keggerator alongside my chilled glasses, then when going to pour my first glass stick the tap into the cup of water untill it gets close to the kegerator temp and hopefully less foaming on first pour.

 

[peekaboo_jones]

That should help LAS good thinking

 

[Lionman]

well im yet to put the theory into practice, but i plan on leaving a large cup of water inside the door of my keggerator alongside my chilled glasses, then when going to pour my first glass stick the tap into the cup of water untill it gets close to the kegerator temp and hopefully less foaming on first pour.

I struggle to see how you can stick a tap into a cup of water? Maybe the tip, not sure that will help much. It's the shank that you really need to cool down isn't it?

 

[Rocker1986]

I've tried it on the taps on my kegerator and it can be done, you just need a rather wide mouthed cup to be able to get more of the tap into the water. I got over it pretty quickly especially since my font pump is kaput at the moment for some reason so the font isn't getting chilled as it normally would be. I'll have a look at it when the keg fridge is finally emptied of beer kegs.

 

[citizensnips]

Finally got a computer fan, can't believe I didn't do this 3 years ago. Massive difference, it's essential for any keezer!

 

[Emjen]

Hi all,

I'm planning my keezer build on a approx 140L freezer, and I'm worried about the taps getting hot on the outside of the keezer.

To combat this, I'm looking at using 8" shanks so that there is as much of the shank exposed to the cold air inside the keezer. In addition, I'm considering adding some makeshift cooling fins to the shanks on the inside of the keezer in the form of large (e.g. 70mm) washers with nuts either side, along the length of the shank inside the keezer. Im hoping that this will be enough to keep the whole shank and tap assembly (inside and out) down to a reasonable temp.

Has anyone else tried something like this? Is there a better solution?

 

[mstrelan]

That will almost definitely make it a pain to lift kegs in and out. If you go down this route I would suggest rotating the freezer so the compressor hump is on a the back instead of the side. If it's fairly square you may be able to rotate the lid and collar so the lid opens from the new front.

 

[nosco]

I dont think you necessarily neednlonger shanks but you definitely need a fan imho.

If i could build my keezer again id put the freezer hinges on the colar and make that the lid and if possible put hinges on to the colar and the freezer lid so you can still use it. With a latch on the inside to hold it down while the colar is open. Easier to put kegs and the hoses are tucked away in the colar but you still have easy access to the taps and hoses through the top.