Kegging Setups

[Mardoo]

Mmmmmmayyyybe

 

[kaiserben]

What size drill bit is the right one to put through a keezer collar?

 

[n87]

What size drill bit is the right one to put through a keezer collar?

depends what size your shanks are

 

[kaiserben]

Ah okay. Initially I'm only using picnic and a pluto taps, so don't necessarily need those holes yet, but was thinking I'd drill them anyway because I plan to upgrade in future. (was thinking it'd save me having to re-paint with enamel). Perhaps I'll just wait and save some enamel.

 

[n87]

Ya.

I got my shanks from Andale, and they have ~16mm holes drilled for them, which is considerably smaller than the standard shank

 

[mofox1]

Ah okay. Initially I'm only using picnic and a pluto taps, so don't necessarily need those holes yet, but was thinking I'd drill them anyway because I plan to upgrade in future. (was thinking it'd save me having to re-paint with enamel). Perhaps I'll just wait and save some enamel.

You should be alright to leave'em.

The shank/taps should have a flange on the front that will cover up any drilling derps.

 

[spog]

Ah okay. Initially I'm only using picnic and a pluto taps, so don't necessarily need those holes yet, but was thinking I'd drill them anyway because I plan to upgrade in future. (was thinking it'd save me having to re-paint with enamel). Perhaps I'll just wait and save some enamel.

If the wholes are too big try a piece of conduit or tubing as a sleeve to stop the taps from wobbling too much.

 

[Wimmig]

Cleaning up the new setup, just waiting on taps to come in. It's a modified KK series 4 for the kitchen which will be used as a ferment fridge in between batches. The new little one in my life will keep too busy to have brews on all the time.

Many lines need trimming.

 

[peteru]

a modified KK series 4

Hi Wimmig,

I'm just putting together my KK series 4 order and was going to go for three tap full stainless steel. I see you are using the 4 way manifold splitter with check valves, which is also part of my plan. I assume that there was enough beer/gas line supplied with the basic KK 4series 4 to do all the gas and beer plumbing. Does the standard 5mm ID line supplied with the KK series 4 fit the manifold without too much stuffing about?

Cheers,

Peter

 

[Wimmig]

Hi Wimmig,

I'm just putting together my KK series 4 order and was going to go for three tap full stainless steel. I see you are using the 4 way manifold splitter with check valves, which is also part of my plan. I assume that there was enough beer/gas line supplied with the basic KK 4series 4 to do all the gas and beer plumbing. Does the standard 5mm ID line supplied with the KK series 4 fit the manifold without too much stuffing about?

Cheers,

Peter

I didn't need to tap anything luckily. The gas manifold mounted up to the existing holes for the glass holder. I had to come it at a sharp angle to get the second screw in but it only took 10 seconds. For the screws I just used the screws from the glass holder just discarding the plastic washers from them

I used standard lines included in the fridge for all gas and beer lines and have heaps left over.

 

[peteru]

Thanks for the info. It looks like I won't be needing any extra stuff, so it's time to place the order, before SWMBO changes her mind...

I suppose if I'm short on line (unlikely), I can just pay a quick visit to Dave's.

I was initially thinking about mounting the gas manifold the same way as you have done, but now I am thinking it may actually be neater to leave the manifold outside of the fridge. Simply attach the manifold somewhere on the back, near the gas cylinder and jut run the lines in. Assuming I can remove the plastic grommet and squeeze three lines through the hole at the back.

 

[Rocker1986]

I was initially thinking about mounting the gas manifold the same way as you have done, but now I am thinking it may actually be neater to leave the manifold outside of the fridge. Simply attach the manifold somewhere on the back, near the gas cylinder and jut run the lines in. Assuming I can remove the plastic grommet and squeeze three lines through the hole at the back.

That's what I've done with mine (series 3 kegerator). I mounted the manifold on the side of it with some very strong double sided tape, so i didn't have to drill holes. Then removed that plastic grommet/tube thingy from the gas line hole in order to fit the three gas lines through and simply plugged the gaps up with some foam.

Initially I was gonna put the manifold inside but once I got it and did a bit of playing around before setting it up I realised it would be just too much of a pain in the arse, not just to get it in there but to actually access it when there are 3 kegs in there as well. The other reason I prefer it on the outside is because the 4th line is a spare with a liquid disconnect on it for quick carbing kegs if needed - saves having to open the door and let all the cold air out!

 

[fdsaasdf]

Initially I was gonna put the manifold inside but once I got it and did a bit of playing around before setting it up I realised it would be just too much of a pain in the arse, not just to get it in there but to actually access it when there are 3 kegs in there as well. The other reason I prefer it on the outside is because the 4th line is a spare with a liquid disconnect on it for quick carbing kegs if needed - saves having to open the door and let all the cold air out!

This sounds to be almost identical to my setup, for the same reasons. I have a JG joiner on my 4th gas line so I can attach a gas or liquid QD depending on whether I'm carbing or purging.

 

[quadbox]

Anyone recommend a particular kind of 3-in-1 primer for painting chesties? Hoping to do my chest freezer with blackboard paint this weekend, I think it's well worth my while putting a coat of something preparatory under the blackboard paint but not sure what works. The existing paint's pretty fugly looking but intact, no rust that I've seen

(doing the body in blackboard paint, then a stained timber collar above it)

EDIT - If I can get away with zero sanding I'll be a happy man, sanding's one of my least favourite jobs on earth. Would much rather change a legion of 1 year old baby's nappies.

 

[AJS2154]

Mate I painted my brewing fridge in blackboard paint about 12 months ago. Sorry to tell you but some sanding is really essential. I just put a wire brush on my electronic drill and ran over the surface. Took 5 minutes.......and I am talking one badly rusted, ugly critter. I then sealed it with one of those metal primers in the cans from Bunnies. The paint cans were maybe $25 in total. Enough for a couple of coats of a big fridge.

It's worth just that little extra effort on the sanding.....the paint is on there to stay

 

[spog]

Wipe the chesty down with warn water and detergent to get rid of any grime and let dry,then give it a good rub with one of those sponge sanding blocks, they're easy to hold onto and pliable ( yep sanding) ,dust of and go again.no need to rub back to bare metal you need a good base for the paint to adhere to.
Give it a coat then let dry give it a light rub with the fine sanding sponge then apply the next coat. And your set like jelly.

 

[peteru]

I've had good experiences with the various Zinser paints on all sorts of dodgy surfaces. It's not cheap stuff, but it's worked for me every time I used it.

Either way, some surface prep will be necessary. Degreasing is a must (metho may get you through the tough stuff) and the sanding can be very, very minimal, basically just enough to scratch any existing smooth surfaces so the paint has something to grab onto.

 

[MastersBrewery]

So after lots of cleaning, some wood work (and I am hopeless with wood work) some paint (again spray painting not my strong suit). Here we have it.
School holidays had me on a tight time table, first up will be cola and creaming soda.

MB

 

[quadbox]

Mate I painted my brewing fridge in blackboard paint about 12 months ago. Sorry to tell you but some sanding is really essential. I just put a wire brush on my electronic drill and ran over the surface. Took 5 minutes.......and I am talking one badly rusted, ugly critter. I then sealed it with one of those metal primers in the cans from Bunnies. The paint cans were maybe $25 in total. Enough for a couple of coats of a big fridge.

It's worth just that little extra effort on the sanding.....the paint is on there to stay

Wipe the chesty down with warn water and detergent to get rid of any grime and let dry,then give it a good rub with one of those sponge sanding blocks, they're easy to hold onto and pliable ( yep sanding) ,dust of and go again.no need to rub back to bare metal you need a good base for the paint to adhere to.
Give it a coat then let dry give it a light rub with the fine sanding sponge then apply the next coat. And your set like jelly.

I've had good experiences with the various Zinser paints on all sorts of dodgy surfaces. It's not cheap stuff, but it's worked for me every time I used it.

Either way, some surface prep will be necessary. Degreasing is a must (metho may get you through the tough stuff) and the sanding can be very, very minimal, basically just enough to scratch any existing smooth surfaces so the paint has something to grab onto.

Thanks for the advice guys. Going to give it a crack sanding it up a bit, washing it with sugarsoap, then using some of the zinsser 123 primer spraypack stuff and see how I go. Assuming that coats alright I'll roll on a couple of coats of blackboard paint

 

[H0U5ECAT]

EDIT - If I can get away with zero sanding I'll be a happy man, sanding's one of my least favourite jobs on earth. Would much rather change a legion of 1 year old baby's nappies.

Prep is the key. You'll only get out what you put in.
The cleaner and smoother/flatter the surface, the better the finish will be.

Paint isn't a cover all and hide all finish.
Those who think it is end up with their surface looking like a toffee apple.
Same goes for anyone lacquering timber. The better finish is something that gives you a thinner layer of topcoat.