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My Guten 40 litre conked out, have been thinking of doing the upgrade to the latest control panel and screen so not particularly worried.
What happened was I had a small leak on the tap when i got up to start the brew lost about 1/2 litre overnight gave the tap a turn and it stopped. What had me concerned was water was slowly dripping from underneath so I knew water had got into the internal part, went the full mash cycle (75 minutes) thought I was OK as the water had stopped dripping 30 mins before. Heard the unmistakable pop of a fuse blowing, from where I was standing I could see both the switch lights still on walked around the front and the screen was dead. So a tip for those single vessel owners, run a bead of silicone around the joint of the body and the housing.
 
Thx WEAL I had something similar happen to my modified Digiboil (water dripping out the bottom). I was convinced that it was leaking out of the vessel it self, in fact so convinced I got in contact with KL only to then discover a tiny seep from the valve leaking through the join between the lower section and boiler (they are after all very similar).
I was using a GF connect controller at the time so not a biggy.
Might be a good chance to convert your Guten to a Smartpid? ;)
Cheers
 
I've got a new, unused SmartPID conversion kit (with the stainless fascia) if you or anyone else decides to go down that path @wide eyed and legless. Changed my mind and taking a different approach myself.
 
How good do the 70's look!! might be time for an upgrade.

Looks like the brewzilla 65 false bottom might fit, being around 40cm and the diameter of the 70l guten lid extending past the internal diameter to 42cm. I guess if I was getting that I'd try the brewzilla's whirlpool arm too as it looks a bit longer than the 50l guten arm.

I've used the grainfather g70, the old demo one needs a jacket, I suspect this would benefit too.
 
Alright, i've been a shadow of this forum.
Now it's my turn to show my atm. filter for the Guten. The filter is still under development, i'll be brewing tomorrow with this frankenstein.
I did try without the inner cutting, but it build up oxygen underneath the screen which made the probe go nutty nutty. It still did an okay job keeping in mind it was better than nothing. Cheers
 

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How many watts does everyone mash and boil at?
Does it make a difference if it is a single or double batch?
 
wide eyed and legless said:
My Guten 40 litre conked out, have been thinking of doing the upgrade to the latest control panel and screen so not particularly worried.
What happened was I had a small leak on the tap when i got up to start the brew lost about 1/2 litre overnight gave the tap a turn and it stopped. What had me concerned was water was slowly dripping from underneath so I knew water had got into the internal part, went the full mash cycle (75 minutes) thought I was OK as the water had stopped dripping 30 mins before. Heard the unmistakable pop of a fuse blowing, from where I was standing I could see both the switch lights still on walked around the front and the screen was dead. So a tip for those single vessel owners, run a bead of silicone around the joint of the body and the housing.
Click to expand...
I made a crafteerpi controller box for mine. I can switch between the Guten controls (Say if Im just running some sod perc to clean) or cbpi. I added a switch to the side of the guten and 2 IEC plugs underneath in the cable well. 1 for the elements and 1 for the pump. I use a PT100 probe in thermowell screwed into a stainless T piece where the ball valve connects but thinking of drilling a new hole for this.

Has worked fine so far over a dozen brews other than a few minor issues with the cbpi add ons Ive been using.
 
Fro-Daddy said:
How many watts does everyone mash and boil at?
Does it make a difference if it is a single or double batch?
Click to expand...
I tend to mash at 1700 watt and boil at 2000 watt some mash at a lower temperature 15 to 1600 watt just saves scorching over the elements. The bigger diameter of the 70 litre may make a difference I don't know. I have upgraded to the latest control panel and circuit board, calibrated my temp settings and find I don't get as good a boil as the original circuit board. Just something you will have to play around with.
 
Do you ramp the temp using higher power? Or just go straight from mash to boil and keep it at 2000w the whole time?
 
Jesper said:
Alright, i've been a shadow of this forum.
Now it's my turn to show my atm. filter for the Guten. The filter is still under development, i'll be brewing tomorrow with this frankenstein.
I did try without the inner cutting, but it build up oxygen underneath the screen which made the probe go nutty nutty. It still did an okay job keeping in mind it was better than nothing. Cheers
Click to expand...
How did it go Jesper?
I have found 4 meters of helix works exceptionally well, but still have to compromise with the loss to the kettle, I can't see any way of salvaging any more beer from the trub.
003.JPG 002.JPG
 
Fro-Daddy said:
Do you ramp the temp using higher power? Or just go straight from mash to boil and keep it at 2000w the whole time?
Click to expand...
No I don't bother about ramping up to the boil phase, but check your boil at 2000 watt mine has a hood but with the new circuit board didn't get the good rolling boil I was getting with my old circuit board.
 
I use full power to get to strike temp then will lower to about 1200-1500 for the mash. I like that the power is easily adjustable. On hot day I may run it at 1200. Cold winter day I may run it at 1500. I just watch how the temperature is holding and adjust accordingly. Last Brew I forgot to reduce the wattage for the first 15 minutes. Thought for sure I had scorched it. Wasn't bad at all in the end. I boil full power and get a nice rolling boil.
 
I just set mine at 1700 for both mash and boil
I get a little bit of crud stuck over the element but found that a scrub with vinegar will get it off. thinking about it though I may drop it down a bit as the boil switches on and off
 
wide eyed and legless said:
How did it go Jesper?
I have found 4 meters of helix works exceptionally well, but still have to compromise with the loss to the kettle, I can't see any way of salvaging any more beer from the trub.
View attachment 117265 View attachment 117266
Click to expand...
Around the same as yours. I did cool my wort to kveik pitching temp at 35° c. Which I understand many of you Aussie doesn't, which is totally understandable. I was disappointed about losing a couple of worthy liters, but at least it did transfer less trub. I'll trying to finish my filter bag this weekend.

I tend to mash at 700w outside with a neoprene ghetto style robobrew jacket on. And boil for 3000w because outdoors temp here is around 5-9° Celsius
 

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