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Abird89

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Keen to try a false bottom with my Guten after blockages on last brew. I recall someone is using one but can’t find the post - which one fits the Guten 50L?
 

devoutharpist

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Keen to try a false bottom with my Guten after blockages on last brew. I recall someone is using one but can’t find the post - which one fits the Guten 50L?
From memory a couple of people got the robobrew false bottom and cut it to fit? I don't think there was anything better than that solution for a false bottom. WEAL did have an elaborate setup of helix coils which worked pretty well.
 

Abird89

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From memory a couple of people got the robobrew false bottom and cut it to fit? I don't think there was anything better than that solution for a false bottom. WEAL did have an elaborate setup of helix coils which worked pretty well.
I’ve got a helix but giving up on it. Frustrates me to no end. I’d prefer to go back to the false bottom system I used to use on my robobrew v2
 
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Ask the question on the Keg King thread, I am sure if there is enough interest that the manufacturers of the Guten could knock something up. Should be easy as the 50 and 40 litre models are the same diameter. The 70 litre is a larger diameter. I don't think they will stop the break material going into the fermenter though.
 

devoutharpist

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I've resigned to the fact that i can't use the pump if i want to keep maximum crud out of the fermenter. Gravity out of the front tap it is... might look into putting a camlock on the tap and use an external pump for true whirlpool and assisted transfers.

Brewing tomorrow evening with about 150g of hops going into the kettle, so i will see how well my stone-age spoon whirlpool works for that.
 
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I've resigned to the fact that i can't use the pump if i want to keep maximum crud out of the fermenter. Gravity out of the front tap it is... might look into putting a camlock on the tap and use an external pump for true whirlpool and assisted transfers.

Brewing tomorrow evening with about 150g of hops going into the kettle, so i will see how well my stone-age spoon whirlpool works for that.
I think you will find that the spoon will be as good as a pump, as good as the helix which I use is, the higher the gravity, the more viscous the wort, and the slower the emptying of the kettle.
 

Neil Buttriss

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I'm sure I read somewhere that the Helix is very good for hot cubing tranfers but can be nearly impossible with the cold break, I am thinking that if I wanted to use the pump out to fermentor that maybe a length of tubing so that only pumping from around the same height as the tap is.
 
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I'm sure I read somewhere that the Helix is very good for hot cubing tranfers but can be nearly impossible with the cold break, I am thinking that if I wanted to use the pump out to fermentor that maybe a length of tubing so that only pumping from around the same height as the tap is.
Nothing better for for hot cubing than a helix, tap fully open empties easily. Cool wort is a different story, the higher viscosity means it needs a bigger surface area to drain through. Doubling the length of the helix helps, but not with a high gravity wort.
 
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A dull wet Sunday arvo, decided to make a false bottom of a sort, didn't want to compromise the elements, so came up with this.
002.JPG 001.JPG
A $12 s/steel strainer from one of the Chinese cooking wares shop, cut off the bottom and trimmed around the top. An afterthought, I could have saved myself some time and effort by just making a couple of vertical cuts and let the strainer spring out into position.
 
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devoutharpist

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An inventive solution, i am keen to hear how it performs.

Also what sort of variation do people see while mashing? I had the 50L set to 800w for a batch with 8kg grain and 35L water and i was getting the temp overshooting to +2C. Any thoughts?
 
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An inventive solution, i am keen to hear how it performs.

Also what sort of variation do people see while mashing? I had the 50L set to 800w for a batch with 8kg grain and 35L water and i was getting the temp overshooting to +2C. Any thoughts?
I expect that you have calibrated the temperature. And I do get movement in mine I just put it down to the circulating wort. The temperature can only be measured in the one specific point so it isn't really indicative of the overall mash temperature, plus the fact that the temperature control cuts in and out.
 

Mya

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So what's the consensus then for filtering cold break short of getting a new false bottom? Helix is blocking up entirely with any decent sized grain bill.

Is an upstand bazooka filter & hop spider over the fermenter the best way?
 
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I would say the best option is reduce the outlet, the best method I used was to reduce the outlet using a capillary reducer 19 mm to 12 mm and flattening the 12 mm end of the reducer to no more than a slit.
Wait for the wort to settle and gently empty the kettle.
 

Fergy1987

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Hey looking at getting a Guten and just wondering if anyone thinks the whirlpool arm is worth it? Thinking of going down the no chill path so would I see any advantage with a whirlpool arm, or should I just stick with the standard design.
 
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Hey looking at getting a Guten and just wondering if anyone thinks the whirlpool arm is worth it? Thinking of going down the no chill path so would I see any advantage with a whirlpool arm, or should I just stick with the standard design.
No you won't need the whirlpool arm, if you are 'no chill' get the helix.
 

Fergy1987

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Anyone have a tried and tested equipment profile for the 40L Guten for BrewFather - I created my own but think its a bit off.
 

Mya

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Has anyone had much success doing micro (eg 10L) batches in the Guten? I would imagine that you either need a BIAB setup or you need some mini removable mesh malt bucket with short feet to keep the malt pipe off of the bottom of the Guten.

A 10L batch with no sparging would use about 18L preboil so the height in the Guten would be about 19cm, with grain volume about 24cm, so the malt pipe would be really short once you include maybe 5cm feet. About 15cm tall by 30cm diameter say, with the recirc pump pumping on top of the smaller malt pipe.

Efficiency would be as poor as BIAB but cost of grain isnt a big deal. I'd like to be able to do small test batches.
 

goatchop41

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Efficiency would be as poor as BIAB
What is this poor efficiency based on? I used to get 85-90% efficiency with BIAB, and plenty of others get that too.

Anyway, in relation to your main question, I would actually use a bag and do BIAB. I have tried two batches with 11L batch volume and found that the mash was quite thick compared to what I like, and it was just a general hassle of a brew. If I did it again, I would use my old BIAB bag
 

JDB

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After a weekend of mishaps I'm a false bottom convert. I've struggled with a helix setup on the tap outlet, which is slow to drain, even when hot cubing. Decided to go down the Brewzilla false bottom route. was easy enough to cut to size using an angle grinder. Was doing a double batch (9 kg grain in the 50l), when the bottom fell out of the malt pipe while I was lifting it out. Made a real mess, and I assumed the brew was ruined. False bottom to the rescue though,it did a great job at keeping the pump clear, so that I managed to pump the wort out into some cubes, then sparged with more water and pumped out again. After a clean up I managed to finish the brew off, ended up with 40l at target OG, so only lost a few litres. Would have been totally ruined without the false bottom.
 

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