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Keen to try a false bottom with my Guten after blockages on last brew. I recall someone is using one but can’t find the post - which one fits the Guten 50L?
From memory a couple of people got the robobrew false bottom and cut it to fit? I don't think there was anything better than that solution for a false bottom. WEAL did have an elaborate setup of helix coils which worked pretty well.Keen to try a false bottom with my Guten after blockages on last brew. I recall someone is using one but can’t find the post - which one fits the Guten 50L?
I’ve got a helix but giving up on it. Frustrates me to no end. I’d prefer to go back to the false bottom system I used to use on my robobrew v2From memory a couple of people got the robobrew false bottom and cut it to fit? I don't think there was anything better than that solution for a false bottom. WEAL did have an elaborate setup of helix coils which worked pretty well.
I think you will find that the spoon will be as good as a pump, as good as the helix which I use is, the higher the gravity, the more viscous the wort, and the slower the emptying of the kettle.I've resigned to the fact that i can't use the pump if i want to keep maximum crud out of the fermenter. Gravity out of the front tap it is... might look into putting a camlock on the tap and use an external pump for true whirlpool and assisted transfers.
Brewing tomorrow evening with about 150g of hops going into the kettle, so i will see how well my stone-age spoon whirlpool works for that.
Nothing better for for hot cubing than a helix, tap fully open empties easily. Cool wort is a different story, the higher viscosity means it needs a bigger surface area to drain through. Doubling the length of the helix helps, but not with a high gravity wort.I'm sure I read somewhere that the Helix is very good for hot cubing tranfers but can be nearly impossible with the cold break, I am thinking that if I wanted to use the pump out to fermentor that maybe a length of tubing so that only pumping from around the same height as the tap is.
I expect that you have calibrated the temperature. And I do get movement in mine I just put it down to the circulating wort. The temperature can only be measured in the one specific point so it isn't really indicative of the overall mash temperature, plus the fact that the temperature control cuts in and out.An inventive solution, i am keen to hear how it performs.
Also what sort of variation do people see while mashing? I had the 50L set to 800w for a batch with 8kg grain and 35L water and i was getting the temp overshooting to +2C. Any thoughts?
No you won't need the whirlpool arm, if you are 'no chill' get the helix.Hey looking at getting a Guten and just wondering if anyone thinks the whirlpool arm is worth it? Thinking of going down the no chill path so would I see any advantage with a whirlpool arm, or should I just stick with the standard design.
What is this poor efficiency based on? I used to get 85-90% efficiency with BIAB, and plenty of others get that too.Efficiency would be as poor as BIAB