Guide To Keg Forced Carbonation.

[als_world]

A few people have been asking about keg forced carbonation lately, so I thought Id take the time to document the process using The Ross Method - http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...?showtopic=8535. There are various opinions on whether this is the best method, but its definitely the quickest and the easiest. Some of the videos might be a bit slow for those on dialup, but Ive tried to keep them around the 500K mark.

Cheers,

Alan.

 

[als_world]

Step 1 Take the full keg and chill to about 4 deg C or so (this will take 24-48hrs). Note that the green square shows the keg temp.

 

[als_world]

Step 2 Pull on the pressure release valve to make sure the keg is depressurized. This will stop any possible back flow if the keg is already at high pressure. I recommend using backflow stop valves just in case.

 

[als_world]

Step 3 - Connect a liquid disconnect (black) to your gas line. Attach this liquid disconnect to the out post of the keg. This will allow you to inject the gas into the keg without having to roll or invert it. I recommend using MFL disconnects to make this step easier. It's a good idea to give the post a quick spray with your favourite no-rinse sanitiser as well beforehand.

 

[als_world]

Step 4 Turn on your regulator until the pressure is steady at 300kPa or about 45 PSI. You will hear some initial bubbling in the keg as the pressure increases but this will stop after a few seconds.

 

[als_world]

Step 5 After checking that the gas line is clear of any fragile objects, start rocking the keg back and forth for about 50 seconds. You can see from the video that only gentle rocking is required. You will hear gas bubbling into the keg as you rock it and the pressure on the regulator should stay at around 300kPa.

View attachment Step_5.wmv

 

[als_world]

Step 6 Turn the gas off at the regulator and then continue rocking the keg. You will notice the gas pressure on the regulator start to drop quite quickly. The video shows the rough speed that the pressure drops back. This should stop at around about 140-160kPa. If the pressure drop stops above 160kPa you may have overgassed the beer by rocking for longer than 50 seconds. If it falls below 140kPa, the beer is not gassed enough and you will need to repeat steps 4-6 again but for 10-15 seconds only for step 4.

View attachment Step_6.wmv

 

[als_world]

Step 7 Wait for an hour or so and then vent the excess pressure via the pressure relief valve. If you decide to do this right away, the video shows what will happen.

View attachment Step_7.wmv

 

[als_world]

Step 8 Reconnect the gas disconnect (grey) to the gas line and connect to the keg in post,

 

[als_world]

Step 9 Turn on the regulator to repressurise the keg back to serving pressure (about 100kPa or 15PSI)

 

[als_world]

Step 10 Serve and enjoy !!!

 

[Foz]

Unreal als_world!

A picture truely can tell a thousand words - and a video (or three) can tell even more then that! Sure a simple method to get the job done quickly!

Cheers!

Foz

 

[Phrak]

Als_World, many MANY thanks. It sure helps newbies to see what's happening first hand.

I've booked-marked this page, but it get's my vote for being a "Sticky" post.
Mods, how about it?

:beer:
Tim

 

[Doc]

I've booked-marked this page, but it get's my vote for being a "Sticky" post.
Mods, how about it?

Indeed. Great post. Tis now Sticky.

Doc

 

[Batz]

Indeed. Great post. Tis now Sticky.

Doc

Yes that will be very helpful to new keggers

The "als_world" method :super:

Batz

 

[KillerRx4]

I will do this occasionally if i want to get stuck into the keg straight away but have never switched QD's & gassed through the liquid out post.
Do you really think it makes a difference?

 

[Ross]

I will do this occasionally if i want to get stuck into the keg straight away but have never switched QD's & gassed through the liquid out post.
Do you really think it makes a difference?

The only difference it makes is that you can shake upright, as the CO2 is being bubbled through from the bottom - If you don't want to gas via the beer out (I only have grey connects to my gas line & don't like forcing the connection) it's just a case of rolling the keg on it's side, back & forwards, with the gas connection lower most.

cheers Ross

 

[Joel]

Great thread. Great timing too as I'm in the last stages of getting my keg fridge setup. I've never gassed a keg before so my question might have an obvious answer. I don't understand why you need to use a liquid disconnect for the initial high pressure injection. Surely using a gas disconnect would do the same job without all the mucking about changing disconnects over?

 

[als_world]

It's your choice as to whether you want to use the liquid or the gas post. As I mentioned, I use MFL connections so the swapover is a 30 second job and lets me keep the keg upright all the time. If you use barbed disconnects or don't mind rolling/inverting the keg, then the gas post is fine.

One other advantage of doing it this way is that I've never had any liquid backflow into the gas tube. When I used to lie the keg down and roll I would sometime get the beer flowing back 5-10cm into the gas tube as the pressure equalised. I may have been rolling too vigorously.

In any case, use the method that works best for you.

Cheers,

Alan.

 

[Joel]

Why can't you connect the gas disconnect up to the liquid side of the keg? From a quick look at my disconnects they look identical to each other except for the colour. I though the colours were just to keep them from getting mixed up?