Guide To Keg Forced Carbonation.

[Phrak]

Joel, be assured that the Gas & Liquid disconnects LOOK the same, but are slightly different. Check out this post for more details:
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...?showtopic=9236

Regards,
Tim.

 

[Millet Man]

Good post Alan.

I gassed my first keg on Saturday with a more hit and miss approach, this will give make it more systematic next time.

Joel, be assured that the Gas & Liquid disconnects LOOK the same, but are slightly different. Check out this post for more details:
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...?showtopic=9236

I used the gas in disconnect on the beer out post to gas and it worked OK but will it do damage if done long term?

When my 4 way manifold arrives this week I will setup 3 for serving kegs/taps and put a black beer out disconnect on the other line to use for forced carbonation to get it right.

Cheers, Andrew.

 

[normell]

When my 4 way manifold arrives this week I will setup 3 for serving kegs/taps and put a black beer out disconnect on the other line to use for forced carbonation to get it right.

Cheers, Andrew.

That' show I've got mine set up, works well.
Got a GMK non return valve on the black beer out disconnect tho

 

[als_world]

Good post Alan.

I gassed my first keg on Saturday with a more hit and miss approach, this will give make it more systematic next time.

Joel, be assured that the Gas & Liquid disconnects LOOK the same, but are slightly different. Check out this post for more details:
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...?showtopic=9236

I used the gas in disconnect on the beer out post to gas and it worked OK but will it do damage if done long term?

When my 4 way manifold arrives this week I will setup 3 for serving kegs/taps and put a black beer out disconnect on the other line to use for forced carbonation to get it right.

Cheers, Andrew.

Thanks Andrew.

I'm surprised you were able to get the gas disconnect onto the out post, and get it off again !!!

In most cases if you try hard enough, or if your keg posts are slightly worn, you can get the wrong disconnect to go on, but getting it off is another story.

I don't recommend trying the "opposite" disconnect on either the gas or the liquid keg posts.

Using a manifold is an ideal way to gas your kegs as it allows one line to be dedicated to gassing. Just remember to turn off the valves to the other kegs before you increase the pressure to 300kPa, or you will get a nasty surprise next time you pour a beer from one of them !!!!

Cheers,

Alan.

 

[Ross]

It's your choice as to whether you want to use the liquid or the gas post. As I mentioned, I use MFL connections so the swapover is a 30 second job and lets me keep the keg upright all the time. If you use barbed disconnects or don't mind rolling/inverting the keg, then the gas post is fine.

Where can you get the flare fittings that connect your threaded disconnects to the line please?
Are they a John Guest fitting?

cheers Ross

 

[Agarn]

Whilst we're on the subject. I currently have a Coopers Ale carbonating in the fridge. All my brews take 24 hours, once chilled, to carbonate. Any longer than that and I end up with ice creams when I pour. Problem is that this one won't carbonate! It's been four days and all I get is 1/4 inch of head and no bubbles. The only difference between this keg and all my others is that this one was sitting in the shed for 3 weeks prior to chilling. Of course living in Canberra it's been pretty cold so I don't think temperature is a problem. Any suggestions. (I have tried the Ross method)

 

[als_world]

It's your choice as to whether you want to use the liquid or the gas post. As I mentioned, I use MFL connections so the swapover is a 30 second job and lets me keep the keg upright all the time. If you use barbed disconnects or don't mind rolling/inverting the keg, then the gas post is fine.

Where can you get the flare fittings that connect your threaded disconnects to the line please?
Are they a John Guest fitting?

cheers Ross

Hi Ross,

I bought all mine from the US a while back, so I'm not sure who would stock them in Oz. They seem to be pretty common, so I imagine anyone here that stocks the normal barbed disconnects should be able to get their hands on them (GMK to the rescue ??).

They aren't John Guest, they are a threaded fitting. There's a good pic here -> http://morebeer.com/product.html?product_id=18269. You need the disconnect, plus the swivel nut and barb.

I'll take some photos tonight when I get home to show you how they go together.

Cheers,

Alan.

 

[JasonY]

I will do this occasionally if i want to get stuck into the keg straight away but have never switched QD's & gassed through the liquid out post.
Do you really think it makes a difference?

The only difference it makes is that you can shake upright, as the CO2 is being bubbled through from the bottom - If you don't want to gas via the beer out (I only have grey connects to my gas line & don't like forcing the connection) it's just a case of rolling the keg on it's side, back & forwards, with the gas connection lower most.

cheers Ross

When I used to force carb I used the gas disconnect (lazy) and you don't have to turn it on its side you just rock as above and you will hear the gas going in, it will just be a little bit more rocking as you are not getting as much gas/liquid contact as bubbling via the liquid line. Turning the keg on its side is prone to getting liquid in the line so I just don't do it unless I remove the gas line before tipping.

Regardless of connection method etc the main thing is consistancy in technique that will give you what you are after.

 

[ausdb]

Where can you get the flare fittings that connect your threaded disconnects to the line please?
Are they a John Guest fitting?
cheers Ross

Hi Ross,
They aren't John Guest, they are a threaded fitting. There's a good pic here -> http://morebeer.com/product.html?product_id=18269. You need the disconnect, plus the swivel nut and barb.
[/quote]

Ross if you use the semi rigid beer/gas line just try and get hold of a John Guest 5/16" joiner. The are pretty easy to release and swap around as you please
Or even better as you sell S/S stones just hook one of those up to your gas dip tube in the keg on a long piece of tubing so it goes to the bottom of the keg. Hook your gas up to it at normal carbonation pressures and then release the relief valve till you hear it bubbling. Go away for 1/2 an hour then come back and do it again, repeat about 4 times and will be pretty much carbonated up.
TIP If you leave the keg out of the fridge to warm up then make sure you bleed off the headspace before connecting it back to your gas, other wise beer will work its way bak up the stoen and tubing into your gas system!!!

 

[sosman]

I just use the gas disconnect and just turn the reg up flat out and shake like buggery. I used to turn the keg on its side but I don't bother anymore.

Also, I am in the habit of chilling the beer in the fermenter before I transfer to keg. Since I normally keg on the weekend, I start the chilling on say Thu night. I have no problems sampling beer pretty much after shake rattle and roll bizzo although it definitately takes a bit to settle down to the perfect carbonation.

 

[Jye]

It's your choice as to whether you want to use the liquid or the gas post. As I mentioned, I use MFL connections so the swapover is a 30 second job and lets me keep the keg upright all the time. If you use barbed disconnects or don't mind rolling/inverting the keg, then the gas post is fine.

Where can you get the flare fittings that connect your threaded disconnects to the line please?
Are they a John Guest fitting?

cheers Ross

The HBS literally has a box full of these, I picked up some on the weekend to make a jumper.

 

[bugwan]

Great thread als_world! Thanks for going to the trouble of adding the multimedia. There's nothing quite like seeing to assist learning.

My favourite sources of information for brewing (other than here) are Paul's Illustrated brewing guide, Craft Brew Radio and Brewing podcasts (among others).

Sorry to go OT, hopefully some of the links help others.

Cheers

 

[Ross]

The HBS literally has a box full of these, I picked up some on the weekend to make a jumper.

As I was looking at using these on my soon to be released filtering system, I was looking for a main supplier rather than a hbs...

cheers Ross

 

[Batz]

[As I was looking at using these on my soon to be released filtering system, I was looking for a main supplier rather than a hbs...

cheers Ross

I always buy this stuff from BD Ross,can't get anywhere near their price in Oz,air freight is stuff all on these little pieces

Batz

http://www.brewersdiscount.com/productCat23623.ctlg

 

[dicko]

The HBS literally has a box full of these, I picked up some on the weekend to make a jumper.

As I was looking at using these on my soon to be released filtering system, I was looking for a main supplier rather than a hbs...

cheers Ross

Hi Ross,
From memory Grain and Grape do these fittings in AUS but they would come to our fair land from 3 B in the US of A. A quantity buy would be from the US I would imagine, either 3 B or BD if they are still trading.
Cheers

 

[als_world]

In case anyone is interested, I've taken some close up pics of the MFL disconnects. IMHO, these are much better than the barbed disconnects as they allow all sorts of connections and jumper lines to be made up without needing disconnects permantly attached, or having to resort to cutting and refitting every time a disconnect needs to be changed.

Pic1 shows the stem and lock nut before the line is connected
Pic2 shows the line connected to the stem and lock nut in place
Pic3 shows a close up of the MFL thread on the disconnect
Pic4 shows the whole thing assembled.

Note that I've left the hose clamp off for clarity.

Cheers,

Alan.

 

[floppinab]

Should the shake time be the same using a smaller keg, say a 7 litre. My head tells me less volume should = less shake but I'm not so sure.

 

[Ross]

Should the shake time be the same using a smaller keg, say a 7 litre. My head tells me less volume should = less shake but I'm not so sure.

YES....

cheers Ross

 

[sstacey]

Can I follow the same instructions (Ross Method to force carbonate a keg) when my keg of beer is at room temperature? I am going to use a "magic box" until I get my fridge sorted, so I can't chill the beer before carbonation.

Is this a problem, or can I still use the Ross Method? Any adjustments that I need to make?
Thanks

 

[Thunderlips]

Can I follow the same instructions (Ross Method to force carbonate a keg) when my keg of beer is at room temperature? I am going to use a "magic box" until I get my fridge sorted, so I can't chill the beer before carbonation.

I reckon you probably could but since the beer is warm it'll take a whole lot more of "forcing".
Use Alan's idea of connecting the gas to the "beer out" line and it'll be a whole lot easier since you wont need to pick the keg up and shake it. You'll need MFL quick disconnects to do it though.