Dedicated Herms Guide, Problems And Solution Thread

[QldKev]

I personally don't like the HERMS coil in the HLT, get it in the smallest water bath you can fit it in.

 

[RustyT]

Why do you need 2 pumps for that design, and why have the kettle on another level if you have a pump?

Your right I could get away with the one pump, but I thought it would simplfy the brew day not having to swap hoses around for filling the mash tun and sparging.

Boil kettle will be gas fired as I already have the burner and gas bottle and was thinking it would better to have it on a seperate level.

 

[QldKev]

I like the idea of 1 level as it keeps every vessel at a nice height. Here's how mine is plumbed for 1 pump to all vessels. You only need to swap hoses if you want to underlet.

 

[TheWiggman]

Struth Kev where'd you buy that HERMS? Looks like it was bent up in a vice.

 

[sponge]

Two pumps gives a bit of flexibility with fly sparging as well.

 

[QldKev]

Two pumps gives a bit of flexibility with fly sparging as well.

Good point, you would need either your HLT on a higher level or a second pump if you are a fly sparger.

 

[RustyT]

I will be fly sparging, but I can gravity feed into the kettle if I stay with an 2 tier system. Can you still batch sparge with a herms setup or would it just defeat the porpose?

 

[QldKev]

I'm running a HERMS and could not be bothered fly sparging. I still get 85% pre-boil eff with batch sparging and don't want any higher. But it's a personal preference which sparge method you choose.

 

[RustyT]

Do you recirculate the batch sparge through the herms to resettle the grain bed?

 

[QldKev]

yep, when I add the sparge water I give it a good stir and recirculate it for 5-10 minutes until it clarifies and temps are nice and stable.

 

[RustyT]

Sweet thought that may have been the case.

 

[Howlingdog]

I'm not to sure where to put this question but I suppose this thread is closer to the point. I've noticed in European forums - not UK, that most Homebrew systems shown use a stirred mash tun. Since I'm assuming that most of their beers are pilsener/lager and involved decoctions or multiple step mashes this maybe the reason. HERMS/RIMS would eliminate the use of a stirred mash tun but would it be an advantage or a complication?

HD

 

[TheWiggman]

I fly sparge myself because in my case it's simpler. I've only got 1 pump and drain into the kettle at different levels.
2 pumps have the advantage of circulating the HLT, which in your case would be a good idea with that HERMS design. And as above you'll need the 2nd pump for a single tier shebang.

 

[TheWiggman]

I'm not to sure where to put this question but I suppose this thread is closer to the point. I've noticed in European forums - not UK, that most Homebrew systems shown use a stirred mash tun. Since I'm assuming that most of their beers are pilsener/lager and involved decoctions or multiple step mashes this maybe the reason. HERMS/RIMS would eliminate the use of a stirred mash tun but would it be an advantage or a complication?

HD

Minor increase in efficiency I think. And bragging rights. I think it's unnecessarily complicated personally but if you want to pimp your rig it's the next step.

 

[Online Brewing Supplies]

I'm not to sure where to put this question but I suppose this thread is closer to the point. I've noticed in European forums - not UK, that most Homebrew systems shown use a stirred mash tun. Since I'm assuming that most of their beers are pilsener/lager and involved decoctions or multiple step mashes this maybe the reason. HERMS/RIMS would eliminate the use of a stirred mash tun but would it be an advantage or a complication?

HD

HERM-IT is big in Norway, makes sense as they need to keep there mash warm and you dont need to stir.
Nev

 

[mb-squared]

I personally don't like the HERMS coil in the HLT, get it in the smallest water bath you can fit it in.

a herms coil in the HLT can double as an immersion chiller. it's the most economical way to go because it doesn't require a 4th vessel and it can be used to chill your wort. putting your HERMS in a 4th vessel is no where near as economical from this view.

 

[TheWiggman]

I challenge the economy argument mb-squared. I'm plugging Nev again but I did the HERMS-in-the-HLT and later switched to the HERM-IT coil. Item by item, they ended up costing almost the same amount. If I was clever about it I could easily turn the coil into a chiller but I've gone the no-chill path instead for a couple of reasons.
I'd never go back.

 

[QldKev]

Whilst I do brew beer to save some money, I brew beer to make great beer and not to make the cheapest system. I don't like the thermal mass of the HLT for ramping and overshooting so to me setting up a dedicated HERMS is 100% worthwhile. If I built mine again I would like to try either a liebig or shotgun condenser style for the heat exchanger. Then I could use a small pump to pump hot water into it and shut the pump down once I hit my set point.

 

[Burt de Ernie]

Whilst I do brew beer to save some money, I brew beer to make great beer and not to make the cheapest system. I don't like the thermal mass of the HLT for ramping and overshooting so to me setting up a dedicated HERMS is 100% worthwhile. If I built mine again I would like to try either a liebig or shotgun condenser style for the heat exchanger. Then I could use a small pump to pump hot water into it and shut the pump down once I hit my set point.

Kev,

This is exactly how my Rinnai system works!

 

[Beerisyummy]

Hi guys,

I managed to get my new heat exchanger made up this week and have a couple of questions for those that have been doing HX for a while.
Firstly, I ended up making it to fit my kettle/mash tun and run a small HLT with around 1L of liquid to power the whole show. My first wet run with water was good.

Now, my first question relates to mounting the PID probe. The old system just tapped into the return line for readings and I was happy with the results. This time I'm not sure if I can just tap into the line exiting the coil, or if I'll need to use a probe in the bottom of the kettle/mash tun. Anyone have advice on this?

Secondly, can I use glycol in the heat exchanger? Food grade of course.
I ask because I managed to get 40L up to 98c with the rig and the only thing stopping the kettle boiling was the HLT maxing out at 100c+/-. It's not that I will do it as a standard practice, but I'd like to know if it would work before I go chasing some free glycol.

BIY.