Dedicated Herms Guide, Problems And Solution Thread

[TheWiggman]

Why would that make a difference Tahoose? The restriction through the false bottom is what would cause the stuck mash. I can't see the volume of liquid below it having any impact on flow restriction. What may assist is the small amount of suction head generated by the height of that liquid, because at the typical trickle flow rates when sparging there is essentially zero suction through the mash.
I think the fact you use a piece of voile would make a big difference.

 

[jlmcgrath]

Anyone using a 3 way ball valve on the inlet to their external herms? Seems like a good idea but not exactly sure why or when I would use it as I am still in the process of building my system. If it makes any difference, I will be fly sparging.

 

[Camo6]

Anyone using a 3 way ball valve on the inlet to their external herms? Seems like a good idea but not exactly sure why or when I would use it as I am still in the process of building my system. If it makes any difference, I will be fly sparging.

I run one at the HEX inlet Jlmcgrath.
Basically, my HLT is the only vessel with a sight glass so I use this to fill the MT via the herms coil. Then I can set the tap to recirc the MT through the herms and bring to mash temps. This allows me to disconnect the HLT hose from the 3 way and recirc my HLT through the whirlpool inlet (I use two pumps in my system).
Once the mash is finished I can fly sparge from the HLT through the herms coil which flushes it of any wort. This is the only time which I have to disconnect the MT outlet hose to the kettle but I use a small bowl (SS of course!) to catch the drips.
There's more than one way to skin a cat but using a 3 way suits my setup ATM. Never need to disassemble it because it's all hot side. At about $50 they're not the cheapest option but can certainly make things easier.

 

[Tahoose]

I'm not really sure how to theorise it? I honestly do t think the Swiss voile helps in the this regard though. It just give me more piece of mind that I don't have bits of grain getting through into the pump and other parts of the system.

The overnight mash yielded very efficient brew, 91% I think. Ended up with an extra 10ltrs and 1:048 rather than 1:046.

 

[TheWiggman]

Hence why "I think..."
Try your next brew without the voile, make no other changes and see what happens. Please?

 

[Tahoose]

Probably won't be the next brew, as I'm on a schedule to get these two beers knocked out.

However the one after that I'll give it a go, might be temping fate as the false bottom doesn't run flush to all of the edges. We'll see anyway.

 

[TheWiggman]

That's ok though, the pumps can handle a bit of product without hassle and eventually the grains/flour act as the filter anyway.

 

[Rosscoe]

Is anyone using the Tempmate instead if PID and if so, do you have any issues with overshoot? Also, can the difference setting also be set in 0.1 increments?

 

[WillieP]

4v, 2 pump, 1 LP Burner, with EHEX

Looking for some advice on a design. I would like to set up an Eherms with an LP BK burner. I don't know how to attach the very basic diagram I created. Sorry.

MT and HLT- 10 gal Igloo drink cooler
BK- 8 gal SS kettle
Ehex- 2 gal with 2000w 120v element
Main pump- MKII
2nd pump- little brown pump
(male QD on vessels and pumps, female QD on hoses)

Looking at a single tier with burner off to the side. Would like to run my theory of operation by you and see if there are issues...

1. Heat strike water in BK, when at temp, pump to MT. Set PID for first step and recirc to stabilize. Turn off pump and dough-in. Wait 10 min then start pump with valve closed and slowly open. Recirc (MT-pump-HEX-MT) for duration of mash increasing flow as able, step mash if things go right.

2. During mash, heat strike water, after mash is complete, change over tubing to pump strike water from BK to HLT.

3. To modified fly sparge, more tubing changes: HTL-LBP-HEX-AutoSparge-MT-PUMP-BK.

4. During Boil: When sparge is complete, empty and rinse MT, then recirc from HLT-LBP-HEX-MT-PUMP-HLT. As a means of heating cleaning water and rinsing the system.

This works in my head and on paper I guess. But I have no experience with pumps, recirculating, or Eherms, so anyone out there that is running something similar that would like to chime in it would be much appreciated!

4 hoses would be required to uses this system this way. It would seem that I should be able to add valves to decrease the amount of hose switching. I think it would help me to draw out each step separately to see if I can simplify the overall process.

PS. I thought of raising the HLT above the MLT and gravity feeding it, but for the price of a little brown pump I figured why not keep it on one level?

Thanks in advance,
Cheers!
Willie P

 

[dblunn]

Hi Willie,
consider hose clamps on the output of the main pump where it goes into the autosparge, the deadheading of the pump when the float shuts the flow off could cause a bit of a dribble without a clamp.
Dave

 

[TheWiggman]

WilleP, why not just turn the HERMS and pump on and let the HERMS heat the strike water? One transfer you don't have to worry about.
I gravity feed from MT to kettle which means I don't need and extra pump. When the mash is done, suction of the pump goes from the MT to the HLT. I then run a hose from the MT to the kettle and begin sparging. If I was doing single tier I'd do it the same way but have a pump from MT to kettle.
Make you you install a ball valve between the pump discharge and mash tun (best spot is on the mash tun in my opinion) and you aren't going with an autosparge.

 

[WillieP]

dblunn, Thanks for the tip.
TheWiggman, good point on heating of the strike water. How long would you guess it takes to heat a single batch (12.5 liters of strike) if I'm planning to use a 2000w element. (120v 20amp circuit over here) I've only heated with gas thus far.

I've got the system I want drawn out on paper, I would like to submitted here, but how to I attach a picture on this forum? I'd like for you all to give it the once over.

Cheers,
Willie P

 

[Mardoo]

Choose "more reply options" at the bottom right of the reply box. Once you do that another page will open. At the bottom left you'll see an "attach files" box. Click "browse" and choose the photo. Then click "Attach This File". You'll see a thumb of your file appear in the "attach files" box. Once you've done that put the cursor where in the text you want the file to appear. Then click the text "Add to Post".

You can use the "preview post" button at the bottom of the page to see how it will look. Then slap yourself on the forehead and say, "Thank god for transparent processes!"

 

[TheWiggman]

12.5 litres, 20 to 60°C, approximately 45 mins. The HERMS out will read strike temp earlier than the mash tun has reached that temp so make you're going off the temp of the strike water first up.

 

[WillieP]

I hope to have successfully added a simple diagram of my design. Thanks for the assist on that Mardoo.

Please assume a valve is closed unless told it is open. Yellow circles are quick disconnects. A dashed line indicates a hose that will need to be moved during brewing. Only V5 would be used to throttle flow, all other valves are either open or closed. Planning on P1 as a little brown pump and P2 to be MKII.

1. Add strike water to MLT. Set PID for first step and recirc till stable temp is reached. Flow path is MTL-V2-V8-P2-V5-V6-HEX-auto sparge-MLT.
Turn off pump and dough-in. Wait 10 min then start pump with V5 closed and slowly open. Recirc same flow path for duration of mash increasing flow as able, step mash if things go right.

2. During mash, heat sparge water in BK, after mash is complete, change over tubing to pump sparge water from BK to HLT. Flow path is BK-V3-V9-P2-V5-V6-V1-HLT

3. To modified fly sparge, more tubing changes (HTL-V1-P1-V4-HEX-auto sparge-MLT-V8-P2-V5-V7-BK).

Thanks for having a look at this, as I've mentioned I'm new to the pump/recirc/HERMS world and would like to get it right the first go round. Any input is welcome, good or bad.

Cheers,
Willie P

View attachment 86476

 

[MastersBrewery]

upsize the kettle

 

[Mardoo]

Or use it for your HLT and the 10 gallon for your kettle. But yeah, with a 10 gallon mash tun a 15-18 gallon boil kettle would be useful.

 

[WillieP]

Sorry I didn't note, both MLT and HLT are Igloo drink coolers.

I'm looking for a 1/2 barrel keg (15.5 gal) to turn in to a keggle. Then I could use the existing 8 gal BK as HLT since I have 2 burners.

Other than that, the theory of operation sound about right? I've thought about 3-way valves in place of V6-V7, and V8-V9 but I haven't priced out the difference yet.

Again Cheers!

 

[Mardoo]

Why so many valves? I guess a lot of us here just swap tubes over, and it looks like you're trying to avoid that. I'm genuinely curious.

 

[WillieP]

Mardoo,
Short answer, yes avoid hose changes.

Long answer:
I will need 5 hoses to brew this method, I would like QD's to be able to hang hoses vertically when not is use. This would be to promote drainage and drying. I would only need to make minor hose swaps, V7 to BK or BK to V9 depending on whether I'm going in or out of BK. However, if I am able to get a keggle for BK, as mentioned earlier, I could use existing 8 gal BK as direct fired HLT. This would also eliminate the hose swap from input of HEX to V1.

V1, V2, V3, and V5 are all required. Like I said V6-V7 and V8-V9 could be replace with 3-ways.

P1, P2, and V4-9 would be mounted to a portable rack that can be brought in the house (cold winters in Illinois).

Again I'm a NOOB when it comes to this, I'm currently moving water with a hand dipper. B)

Open for input.
Cheers