Dedicated Herms Guide, Problems And Solution Thread

[leiothrix]

For the kettle element I used the silicone washer supplied. Like Malbur my pot was too thin, so I cut up a bit of silicone baking dish and used that for a gasket.

For the other element I cut a hole in the pot for the element to fit in. I also cut a hole in an aluminium box to use as a terminal cover.

So mounting it went element -> ali box -> silicone gasket -> pot -> silicone gasket -> s/s washer -> s/s nut.

Also put a screw in the box towards the top to stop it from spinning. I mounted a 15A IEC socket on the box so it has a nice neat finish.

 

[cdbrown]

Cheers guys - what did you use to cut the holes? Hole saw, step drill?

leiothrix - do you have any pics of the ali cover. I understand how it's all set up, just interested to seeing it.

 

[malbur]

Cheers guys - what did you use to cut the holes? Hole saw, step drill?

Hi cdbrown, i used a step drill.

malbur

 

[leiothrix]

I used a holesaw to cut the holes and a dremel to clean them up.


Pictures below.

I've just got to cut up some insulation to fit on the outside of the pot.

Also, the element is controlled by both a PID & power controller, so I can control both mash temp and boil vigour.

Rob.

 

[leiothrix]

Just worth mentioning too that the exposed metal terminals are covered in (clear) high-temperature heatshrink. It's not that noticeable in the photo though.

 

[unrealeous]

I used a holesaw to cut the holes and a dremel to clean them up.

I've been having a hell of a time putting holes into 50 ltr kegs - tried a hole saw from bunwah - the cheap version - couldn't even scratch the surface. Tried standard drill bits - wasting my time... In the end I'm using Chrome tipped 4 ml drill bits and drilling lots of holes using a slow drill with a lubricant - then finish off with a round file. Works a treat - but takes me about half an hour per hole plus a whole lot of mental preparation, and generally that's the end of my 5 buck drill bit....

The results are looking great though - about 2 more to do...

 

[NickB]

Get a good quality set of Bi-Metal hole saws, that's what I've used to cut all my holes. Trick is to drill as slowly as you can, and use some lubricant (I used WD40) on the metal. Cuts like butter.

Cheers

 

[cdbrown]

Any tips for which bit and speed to use when doing the clean up with a dremel. Searching dremel for s/s grinding it comes back with the 932 aluminium oxide bit which i have in my kit. Doesn't have an indication on best speeds. Will be using it on all the holes for clean up including the lid where the cutting isn't too good and needs a lot of remedial work.

Will look around for some bi-metal holesaws. Cheers.

 

[roller997]

Any tips for which bit and speed to use when doing the clean up with a dremel. Searching dremel for s/s grinding it comes back with the 932 aluminium oxide bit which i have in my kit. Doesn't have an indication on best speeds. Will be using it on all the holes for clean up including the lid where the cutting isn't too good and needs a lot of remedial work.

Will look around for some bi-metal holesaws. Cheers.

I would use lower speeds, as per the drilling but then I use sand paper to clean up my holes.

Another good option for holesaws is cobalt coated holesaws as they seem to get through thicker stainless more easily. I bought a Bosch set and they are really good (but not cheap).
Also, if you use drill bits, spend the extra and buy a cobalt coated drill bit which will outlast the cheaper standard HSS drill bits and make drilling quite a lot easier (and faster).
Lubrication is key to cutting into stainless.

Cheers

Roller

 

[bonj]

standard instructions for cutting stainless are low speed, high pressure, and lots of lubricant.

 

[leiothrix]

For the dremel grinding bit i just used one of the standard grinding stones.

Just make sure it has never been used on anything else before (namely iron/steel). Otherwise it will embed the steel dust into the s/s and make it rust.

Rob.

 

[Yorg]

Here's mine. 5 litre urn, about 6 - 8 mtrs of copper - I can't remember.
Contribution to add:
The big white thing in the middle cuts the amount of water in the unit. Probably about 3.5 litres total now.
Faster ramp/response.

 

[Bongchitis]

Nice job!

Have you used it yet? How does it go?... and the new model too. Was it expensive?..... insert standard Q's here.

It is something i have been looking at lately but that is the first example that I have seen that makes me want to use an urn for my herms. Any info would be great.

Cheers mate.

Here's mine. 5 litre urn, about 6 - 8 mtrs of copper - I can't remember.
Contribution to add:
The big white thing in the middle cuts the amount of water in the unit. Probably about 3.5 litres total now.
Faster ramp/response.

 

[~MikE]

I'm gonna be building my new HE on the weekend hopefully and finish piecing togegher my first HERMS system once all the bits arrive. i might make a mini build log of this...

 

[rude]

Another good lubricant for drilling stainless is kero.

 

[mxd]

hi guys,

I was in the midst of making my coil for the HX (10 ltr urn), I was using 3mtr 1/2 rolls and just planned on joining them, I have 2 coiled now planned on 1 or 2 more, I was getting the rolls for $10 now there $30 for 3 mtrs.

So my question I can get 18 mtrs of 1/4" or 5/8" for $40 and $60 so thought I would just get one of these and start again. What do people recommend

1) just use 6 mtrs in the urn
2) suck it up pay $10 a mtr
3) goto 1/4"
4) goto 5/8"

thanks
Matt

 

[cdbrown]

I can't understand the pricing of copper. The big green shed has 6m 1/2" coils for $10, yet 1.5m straight length is $16. Crazy. I'm going to tradelink today hopefully to see what they charge for a straight length

 

[Pollux]

Just doing a touch of research on fittings and came across this page

http://www.nrrbs.com.au/hosenetabrass.htm

Scroll down to the multi outlet taps. Ignoring the fact that the sizes won't match up to a march pump for a second (fittings can alter that) is there any reason that they couldn't be used in a HERMS setup? I see them as effectively being a row of ball valves sitting on a row of t-pieces.

Opinions?

 

[TidalPete]

Replaced my old fixed HE return with an adjustable one a few weeks ago. Was nothing wrong with the old one except it wasn't adjustable for various sized grain bills (Light beers\double batches, etc) & being an old shower head, was hard to clean properly inside.
Still getting around 90%+ efficiency so it's worked out well. Took your advice Screwy & used a ss elbow with better results as you can see. :beer:
Just a much cheaper version (Most of the bits were lying around the place) of a certain HE return sold down south so can't claim it to be my idea brewers.

TP

 

[NickB]

Nice work Pete!

I'm hopefully going to be re-doing my Heat Exchanger sometime soon with a model that has more copper coil in it, and drains easier.

Will definitely be looking at something similar for my return as well...

Cheers