Dedicated Grainfather Guide, Problems and Solutions Thread

[HBHB]

Sorry I should have said it gets to 90 after the sparge but while the basket is still draining. But yeah the last few times it takes an hour to get to the boil from 90. I make sure the Variation switch is on normal, give the bottom a good careful clean with the mash paddle to remove any crud from over the element. I am getting my sparky to put a seperate circuit outside under the carport for my brewing maybe that will help as You said Martin as I won't need a long extension lead.

Yeah we had a local brewer with a Crown urn running a cheapy white Bunnings lead that used to get hot during the boil and took forever to actually get there. that was part of the problem, but after using a HD one still had issues, so he got a sparky mate to check the wiring (1960's house) and there was problems there too. Was apparently not getting full power - an easy fix with a happy ending.

 

[paulyman]

As an update i cleaned the unit after my brew today and used the reset switch on the bottom of the unit to see if that might help. Then I added 28L of water at 22C. Switched to mash on the normal setting with the lid on and checked on it at various times on its ramp to 78. Spot on 0.92C/min. Which is what I'd expect and is inline with all my brews with the unit. Was a little out on the trip from 78 to 90, it was at 88 just ticking over to 89 when I checked it at the predicted time, so pretty close. Took the lid off, as I bring a brew to the boil after sparging and removing the basket, without the lid. Time from 90 to rolling boil was 33 minutes exactly and it was a fairly even time for each degree rise in temperature.

I'm now racking my brain and thinking have I always brought it to the boil without the lid on? Could it be that simple? Will try and test ramp time from 90 to the HH warning with the lid on to compare times.

Edit - then I'll run the stopwatch again next brew from 90 to the HH alarm to compare timings.

 

[BKBrews]

My last brew took bloody forever to hit the boil, which I also thought was different to the norm. It actually got to 88 and for some unknown reason dropped back to 83 before ramping back up. 90 - 100 took at least half an hour. I'm going to give the element good scrub before next use - just wondering whether it powers on and off with a bit of that build up on it, but not enough to trip it into needing a reset.

On another note, has anyone bought the micro pipework? I think I'm going to get it as I want to do some full batches of some Session beers. I've found 4.5kg is the absolute minimum you can put in the standard pipework to still have the top plate and overflow in place and at 4.5kg with the efficiency I'm getting, that doesn't really allow too many beers under 5% ABV.

 

[paulyman]

My last brew took bloody forever to hit the boil, which I also thought was different to the norm. It actually got to 88 and for some unknown reason dropped back to 83 before ramping back up. 90 - 100 took at least half an hour. I'm going to give the element good scrub before next use - just wondering whether it powers on and off with a bit of that build up on it, but not enough to trip it into needing a reset.

.

That describes my last few brew days almost exactly. Haven't noticed it lose temp but until my test this afternoon I haven't sat over it to check if that is happening.

 

[Coldspace]

I've found especially when double batching or big grav boils , the malt can coat the element at the bottom causing inefficient heating, after sparge, I've been using my long stainless mash paddle to carefully scrap the bottom of the gf carefully not knocking the filter attachment off. It seems to work a little faster then.

I also just swing in my over the side immersion heater I've had since my bucket of death days, 4400 watts of heat cranks it up to full boil from 88 in no time, especially when I'm double batching in it and it's up near 32 ltrs. Once boiling take immersion heater out and the gf element holds it good from then on.

This saves me like 30 mins each time as I can crank the mash in water up in like 10 mins.

This extra heating can save me over 40 mins on brew days. You can buy them for about 80 bucks on evilbay.

You just need to run the immersion element from another circuit in your house.

 

[Killer Brew]

I put the lid on after sparge to speed it to boil. Makes a big difference.

 

[kaiserben]

You guys know the saying: A watched pot never boils?

I replaced my GF controller with a flashed STC1000, so I no longer need to keep checking (and fretting) about it reaching the boil. I just need to be within earshot (for when it sounds an alarm to let me know to add my first hop addition).

I'm sure the fancy new GF controller will do likewise.

I always give the base a scrape when ever I happen to walk past (but more particularly once it reaches around the 90C mark).

 

[HBHB]

You guys know the saying: A watched pot never boils?

I replaced my GF controller with a flashed STC1000, so I no longer need to keep checking (and fretting) about it reaching the boil. I just need to be within earshot (for when it sounds an alarm to let me know to add my first hop addition).

I'm sure the fancy new GF controller will do likewise.

I always give the base a scrape when ever I happen to walk past (but more particularly once it reaches around the 90C mark).

how does the stc1000 make a difference when it's by-passed for the boil? Or have you got it wired to achieve 100 deg and have the elements wired through it?

 

[kaiserben]

how does the stc1000 make a difference when it's by-passed for the boil? Or have you got it wired to achieve 100 deg and have the elements wired through it?

It's never bypassed; The switch on the control panel (the one where you can select either Boil, Off, or Mash) just stays on Mash all the time (with the element variation switch at the based of the unit always set to 'Normal'). What I program into the STC1000 is always in control (even during the boil, when the program has the element running at a 'Boil Output' of 100%, which is essentially the same as if you'd flicked the switch to boil).

The program let's you determine the element output as a percentage depending on what stage of the program it's at. So I've got it as 100% for any time it's heating or boiling, and at 25% when holding a mash step temp (basically that means it's switching the element on & off, and that it's on 25% of the time).

There's also a Hot Break pause, where (I'm still trying to find the best settings for this) I've got it set to hold at 97C for 10 minutes with an element output of 60%. This step is to help avoid boil over.

EDIT: So yeah, I suppose the shorter answer is that the elements are wired through it. I took the original STC200 out of the GF controller box and replaced it with the flashed STC1000.

 

[HBHB]

This step is to help avoid boil over.

Bugger that. 1/2 ml of FermCap AT and forget about it. :super:

 

[hodges4]

Is there any word yet on when the Grainfather Connect will be available in Australia.

 

[fishingbrad]

Spoke to one of the brissy reps last week. said they found an issue with the app and would not release the product with bugs (they knew of). He said should be middle this month.

 

[hodges4]

Thanks Brad

 

[Futur]

The new grainfather connect controller is available for order and in stock on the Australian website.

https://www.grainfather.com/shop/grainfather/connect-control-box.html

 

[HBHB]

Is there any word yet on when the Grainfather Connect will be available in Australia.

Stocks are rolling out now. Some stores already have them

 

[wambesi]

Spoke to one of the brissy reps last week. said they found an issue with the app and would not release the product with bugs (they knew of). He said should be middle this month.

One of us? There's just me

As Martin said, we've decided to release the controller without the Android app for now - as an Android user I would have preferred not to but sometimes things just need to be done (or not done).

 

[Futur]

One of us? There's just me

As Martin said, we've decided to release the controller without the Android app for now - as an Android user I would have preferred not to but sometimes things just need to be done (or not done).

Personally I think it's the right choice. I've ordered one and have an android device and know the quality of the apps out there so am confident it will do as advertised when released.

 

[BKBrews]

I'm boiling water in preparation for my brew day tomorrow.... has taken 40min to go from 30 degrees to 70 and from 70 - 73 has taken nearly 10min. I'm getting pretty over it!!

 

[paulyman]

Have you got it set on normal or mash? I have mine on normal for most things and only switch to mash during a mash. After sitting and watching it the other day it rises at pretty well 0.9 degrees a minute which fits your first rise perfectly. Your slow rise from 70 though sounds exactly like my issue post 90. I am still unsure if it really is an extension cord issue, an element issue or the controller.

I unfortunately won't get a chance to brew again for a few weeks to run more tests. On the plus side I should have the new controller by then so can instantly eliminate one of those variables. Will also have my electrician adding in a dedicated brewing circuit or two for me when I get him in for the kitchen Reno in the new year. So that will eliminate another variable.

With the new controller I have a feeling I won't actually care about the delay anymore to be honest. I can do other things and keep an eye on it from the app. The ability to set a delayed start will be even better! Can't wait.

 

[BKBrews]

Have you got it set on normal or mash? I have mine on normal for most things and only switch to mash during a mash. After sitting and watching it the other day it rises at pretty well 0.9 degrees a minute which fits your first rise perfectly. Your slow rise from 70 though sounds exactly like my issue post 90. I am still unsure if it really is an extension cord issue, an element issue or the controller.

I unfortunately won't get a chance to brew again for a few weeks to run more tests. On the plus side I should have the new controller by then so can instantly eliminate one of those variables. Will also have my electrician adding in a dedicated brewing circuit or two for me when I get him in for the kitchen Reno in the new year. So that will eliminate another variable.

With the new controller I have a feeling I won't actually care about the delay anymore to be honest. I can do other things and keep an eye on it from the app. The ability to set a delayed start will be even better! Can't wait.

Yep, I'm the same as you - pretty much use normal for everything except the 60min period that it's hit the mash temp. I even gave the element a good scrub to remove some of the gunk off it - there wasn't much to begin with. If I thought it might help.

As I type this, it's now at 94 degrees, so it's jumped 21 degrees since my last post.