Dedicated Grainfather Guide, Problems and Solutions Thread

[BKBrews]

Alright, so I completed a brew day this morning and everything went pretty smoothly..

My ramp up temps have improved - I'm going to put it down to giving the element a good scrub with a bit of the grainfather cleaner last night prior to boiling my water for today's brew day. Even if your element looks clean (mine did), give it a scrub. Try and remove everything on it until it looks like new and I reckon your ramp times will improve.

Still having troubles with the shitty leaking chiller, but I'm in contact with a GF rep about that one.

Oh, and seriously heed the warnings on the cleaner label. Try not to get it on your hands. My fingers and nails are absolutely munted from the GF cleaning solution.

 

[paulyman]

Well after I said last night I wouldn't brew again for a few weeks... today I put the lid on once I'd finished the sparge. Took 16 minutes to get from 90 to a boil. That's 0.63 degrees a minute, less than the 0.9 degrees a minute it gets prior to this, but a success. I'll make sure I do that in the future.

 

[paulyman]

Well after I said last night I wouldn't brew again for a few weeks... today I put the lid on once I'd finished the sparge. Took 16 minutes to get from 90 to a boil. That's 0.63 degrees a minute, less than the 0.9 degrees a minute it gets prior to this, but a success. I'll make sure I do that in the future.

 

[BKBrews]

Well after I said last night I wouldn't brew again for a few weeks... today I put the lid on once I'd finished the sparge. Took 16 minutes to get from 90 to a boil. That's 0.63 degrees a minute, less than the 0.9 degrees a minute it gets prior to this, but a success. I'll make sure I do that in the future.

I didn't count mine mate, but went pretty fast without the lid on.... I'd definitely try and scrub the element spotlessly clean. What I've noticed from boiling all of my water prior to brew day is that even the most minute spots on the element cause little heat spots - you can see them bubbling away as it heats.

 

[peteru]

I'm considering buying a Grainfather soon - birthday in less than 2 weeks. I've read all 76 pages of this thread, and I still have some questions...

If I try to make a 20L batch of 3.5-4% beer, will I be able to do it without the micro pipework? What is it about the normal pipework that makes it unsuitable for small grain bills?

Is the Grainfather Connect (the only Grainfather available at www.grainfather.com for Australian market) the same physical hardware as the normal Grainfather units that have been shipping for the last couple of weeks / months? Obviously, the controller would be different, but are there any other differences? For example, the element switch on the base does not seem to be necessary any more.

Can the new controller be fully utilised without an app? Can I use the buttons on the control panel to set up mash steps, etc?

Is there more info on how the new controller works?

How about a published API / description of the protocol? If it turns out that the GF Connect controller (or more likely the apps) are not to my liking, I'd like to have the option of interfacing with the new controller. At the end of the day, I would prefer a controller that can connect back to my Linux server and provide data logging. I could build a back end with a web interface for the controller and could then access this from any device, as opposed to having to have just one Android device paired with the controller.

My gut feeling is that the best option is to purchase an "existing recent stock" GF with the STC-200 controller and also order a separate Connect controller upgrade. That way I end up with two controllers for a price similar to (or better than) the new GF Connect. I could then choose to go back to the simple STC-200 or replace the STC-200 in the old controller with a SmartPID.

Any recommendations for GF retailers that have good prices and enough turn over / stock to have a recent model GF available for delivery soon? I don't want to end up with a really old version that needs the other upgrade kits.

 

[BKBrews]

I'm considering buying a Grainfather soon - birthday in less than 2 weeks. I've read all 76 pages of this thread, and I still have some questions...

If I try to make a 20L batch of 3.5-4% beer, will I be able to do it without the micro pipework? What is it about the normal pipework that makes it unsuitable for small grain bills?

Is the Grainfather Connect (the only Grainfather available at www.grainfather.com for Australian market) the same physical hardware as the normal Grainfather units that have been shipping for the last couple of weeks / months? Obviously, the controller would be different, but are there any other differences? For example, the element switch on the base does not seem to be necessary any more.

Can the new controller be fully utilised without an app? Can I use the buttons on the control panel to set up mash steps, etc?

Is there more info on how the new controller works?

How about a published API / description of the protocol? If it turns out that the GF Connect controller (or more likely the apps) are not to my liking, I'd like to have the option of interfacing with the new controller. At the end of the day, I would prefer a controller that can connect back to my Linux server and provide data logging. I could build a back end with a web interface for the controller and could then access this from any device, as opposed to having to have just one Android device paired with the controller.

My gut feeling is that the best option is to purchase an "existing recent stock" GF with the STC-200 controller and also order a separate Connect controller upgrade. That way I end up with two controllers for a price similar to (or better than) the new GF Connect. I could then choose to go back to the simple STC-200 or replace the STC-200 in the old controller with a SmartPID.

Any recommendations for GF retailers that have good prices and enough turn over / stock to have a recent model GF available for delivery soon? I don't want to end up with a really old version that needs the other upgrade kits.

You'll have to ask someone else about the controller stuff, but I'll answer a few of your questions:

1. You would definitely need the micro pipework to do low ABV beers, especially only 20L batches. I've found the absolute minimum grain you can really put in the normal pipework without stuffing around is ~4.5kg, which gave me an SG of 1.046. Once you start going with smaller grain bills, you can no longer push the overflow pipe down far enough, so it sits higher than the top plate. To rectify, you have to stuff around with adding top up water and taking it out of your sparge calculations. For $40 for the micro pipework, it's just easier.

2. Cheeky Peak have really good prices. I bought mine about 6 months ago and it didn't require any upgrades (latest model), only thing is I got the outdated chiller. But I have been advised they are near identical, just slightly different aesthetics as they changed supplier.

 

[Coodgee]

You'll have to ask someone else about the controller stuff, but I'll answer a few of your questions:

1. You would definitely need the micro pipework to do low ABV beers, especially only 20L batches. I've found the absolute minimum grain you can really put in the normal pipework without stuffing around is ~4.5kg, which gave me an SG of 1.046. Once you start going with smaller grain bills, you can no longer push the overflow pipe down far enough, so it sits higher than the top plate. To rectify, you have to stuff around with adding top up water and taking it out of your sparge calculations. For $40 for the micro pipework, it's just

I've made 1035 og beers a few times. It's not hard at all. Add an extra 2-3 litres to the mash and subtract it from the sparge.

 

[paulyman]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6dY2QiqwpE4&feature=youtu.be

This is a review that was posted to Grainfather Facebook page. Seems to show the controller is pretty easy too use, as is, without needing the app.

 

[kaiserben]

I made a 3% beer with the regular pipework using 3.88kg of grain.

Like Coodgee said, I ended up adding an extra 2L of water to the mash and subtracted that from the sparge.

 

[peteru]

Thanks for the feedback. I'll definitely go for the micro pipework option then. Most of my brews will be in the 5.5-7% ABV category, but I suspect that about 20% of the time I'll want to have something a bit lighter available. I'm sure that on occasions I will also get close to the 9kg limit too.

It seems like there is close to zero information available on the new controller, which is a shame. Now that it's been released, perhaps some beta testers could start talking about it.

As far as different hardware is concerned, again not much info, but I do notice that the pictures in the marketing collateral show differences between the older/current model and the Connect model. Besides the chiller being very different, there are also differences in the bottom element switch, the way the bottom plastic connects to the steel body, the thermowell and also the recirc arm.

It seems that I picked the wrong time to buy from Cheaky Peak - their web site is buggered.

 

[BKBrews]

Thanks for the feedback. I'll definitely go for the micro pipework option then. Most of my brews will be in the 5.5-7% ABV category, but I suspect that about 20% of the time I'll want to have something a bit lighter available. I'm sure that on occasions I will also get close to the 9kg limit too.

It seems like there is close to zero information available on the new controller, which is a shame. Now that it's been released, perhaps some beta testers could start talking about it.

As far as different hardware is concerned, again not much info, but I do notice that the pictures in the marketing collateral show differences between the older/current model and the Connect model. Besides the chiller being very different, there are also differences in the bottom element switch, the way the bottom plastic connects to the steel body, the thermowell and also the recirc arm.

It seems that I picked the wrong time to buy from Cheaky Peak - their web site is buggered.

I would be very surprised if they are different - it's hard to tell from a render. The changes look so minute that I don't think they'd bother (e.g. What's the point of moving the element switch slightly). I would think the only actual difference is the controller and the chiller - but your thought process on getting one slightly older to obtain the older controller is sound.

I have been in contact with an imake rep, as I was quite unhappy that I was told I was getting the latest model but then found out I got the older chiller. I have been assured they just come from a different supplier and are near identical in construction, just cosmetically different. In fact, I actually think the old chiller might suit me better - the new chiller is on a spindle that sits in the lid hole, which is fine if that's how you chill. I personally leave the lid off during chilling and sit the chiller on a stool to the side of the grainfather.

 

[peteru]

Thanks for the YouTube link to the controller review. The user interface on the control unit seems pretty good. From the limited stuff I've seen, it looks better than the Braumeister.

 

[peteru]

All right. I gave Grainfather people a call and they checked for me. There is a difference between the base units. The classic GF version has a mash/normal switch on the base. On the new Grainfather Connect this switch is now an on/off switch.

So, it looks like I'll be going with a classic GF and add the new controller upgrade and micro pipework.

Contemplating a Keg King 3 roller Maltmuncher mill as well. Does it get the thumbs up / down as a GF companion?

 

[paulyman]

I use one with their mill motor attached, works fine for me.

 

[N3MIS15]

FWIW, I often do lower ABV beers without using the micro pipework. I simply just double the batch size. I have a 60l fermenter that I use for lower ABV beers (or split into cubes ant ferment as needed). I currently have 50l of 2.5%ish ABV fermenting is which i did a 30l boil and topped up with water in the fermenter.

 

[peteru]

/me is excited. About to jump in the car and pick up an old style GF with the Connect controller. I could have saved $100+ by ordering online, but Dave at Dave's Homebrew has always looked after me and has one I can pick up straight away. He can have the extra coins. :super:

First planned brew is DIY Dog #115 - 10 Heads High, Imperial Red Ale. Jump in at the deep end, hey? :lol:

 

[Killer Brew]

Let me think...tips for new users to avoid some of the dumb mistakes I made learning the system:

1) Remember to fit the filter onto the pipe before filling up with water
2) Be careful not to knock off said filter when stirring / scraping the bottom
3) The ring at the top that suspends the mash pipe can be removed for easy cleaning but remember to replace before mashing in next time
4) A little bit of water or grain dust makes the task of sliding the perforated plates into the mash pipe a hell of a lot easier
5) Think about where the process water from the counter flow chiller is going to go before you start it up. You will be surprised how much is used and how quickly containers overflow.
6) Check all of your connections on your counter flow chiller before using for the first time (and periodically after that).
7) Don't counter flow the wort back into the GF to cool before exiting to FV. Only run the hot wort through it long enough to sanitise and then start the water and exit to FV.
8) Put the lid back on after sparge to speed the time to boil.

Probably a few more that I can't recall but perhaps these will save you some heartache! Enjoy the new GF, great piece of kit!

 

[paulyman]

9) always make sure you know which switch is in which position at all times. There is no safety here, it would be so easy to get complacent and burn out your element.

Edit- and /or pump.

 

[BKBrews]

5 and 6 are so important, especially if you're brewing indoors or in a limited space. I'm still gobsmacked every time at just how much water the chilling process uses.

 

[sixfignig]

I've got a question about the new Grainfather Connect controller, as I'm wondering if it would be suitable as an off the shelf solution to build my own 1V recirc system.

1. Says the unit can power 2000w (rated?). What are the implications of running a 2200w or even 2400w element?
2. What temperature probe does it use, and does it come with the standalone unit? Is it hard-wired in, or what type of plug does it use?